Need help engine install
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Joined: Apr 2015
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Need help engine install
1977 l82 4 speed engine Is out new one ready to go in. Can't seem to line up engine to tranny. Any suggestions. Tried wiggle back and forth. Can't get them to come together.any suggestions?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,105
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From: Sunrise FL
You can make (or buy?) some dowels to screw in the block as temporary guides to slide things together. Cut heads off scrap bolts.
Assuming nothing is in the way...and you did use an alignment tool on the clutch disc
Assuming nothing is in the way...and you did use an alignment tool on the clutch disc
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
You are in luck...I just fought this battle last June 2014 with my completely rebuilt L-82-original block bored .030, reconditioned the L-82 forged rods, L-82 crank, new JE forged Racing pistons/rings (9:1), new bearings, balancer, everything else internal, reused the L-82 aluminum intake etc...Pulled the engine separate from the 4 speed on the advice of the builder who did the short block work. Easy coming out...new clutch kit as well BUT going back in I could not get the engine to mate to the 4 speed for the life of me. Pulled and realigned the engine/clutch with the cheap S**T plastic alignment tool with the clutch kit to the tranny too many times to think about now BUT finally read on a Suburu website that once you get the engine/clutch in the engine bay and close to the tranny, install the clutch linkage to the clutch pedal. Have a helper step on the clutch, and the whole assembly mated perfectly. I wish someone had told me that trick...done in 10 minutes after I stepped on the clutch which allowed the last 2 inches of travel allowing for the 4 bolts intallation. Hope that helps!
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 26,563
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From: Northridge California
St. Jude Donor '14
You are in luck...I just fought this battle last June 2014 with my completely rebuilt L-82-original block bored .030, reconditioned the L-82 forged rods, L-82 crank, new JE forged Racing pistons/rings (9:1), new bearings, balancer, everything else internal, reused the L-82 aluminum intake etc...Pulled the engine separate from the 4 speed on the advice of the builder who did the short block work. Easy coming out...new clutch kit as well BUT going back in I could not get the engine to mate to the 4 speed for the life of me. Pulled and realigned the engine/clutch with the cheap S**T plastic alignment tool with the clutch kit to the tranny too many times to think about now BUT finally read on a Suburu website that once you get the engine/clutch in the engine bay and close to the tranny, install the clutch linkage to the clutch pedal. Have a helper step on the clutch, and the whole assembly mated perfectly. I wish someone had told me that trick...done in 10 minutes after I stepped on the clutch which allowed the last 2 inches of travel allowing for the 4 bolts intallation. Hope that helps!
Yeah, those plastic alignment tools they give you in a clutch kit suck *****. I ended up buying a kit from NAPA made out of steel that works great. I couldn't for the life of me to get it to line up with that plastic POS tool. But it was easy with the one I bought.
That said, I did mine with the engine and trans out of the car.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
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From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
you did install a bearing/bushing in the rear crank ? transmission in neutral?
did you align the splines with a install tool ? best tool is an old input shaft.
and how close are you in seating them together, distance from block to bellhousing?
if your close about 1/2" sometimes you can put the car in gear, and gently rock the rear tires,
to help the input shaft self align.
did you align the splines with a install tool ? best tool is an old input shaft.
and how close are you in seating them together, distance from block to bellhousing?
if your close about 1/2" sometimes you can put the car in gear, and gently rock the rear tires,
to help the input shaft self align.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 53
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you did install a bearing/bushing in the rear crank ? transmission in neutral?
did you align the splines with a install tool ? best tool is an old input shaft.
and how close are you in seating them together, distance from block to bellhousing?
if your close about 1/2" sometimes you can put the car in gear, and gently rock the rear tires,
to help the input shaft self align.
did you align the splines with a install tool ? best tool is an old input shaft.
and how close are you in seating them together, distance from block to bellhousing?
if your close about 1/2" sometimes you can put the car in gear, and gently rock the rear tires,
to help the input shaft self align.
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From: Long Island
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Syracuse NY
I also learned this lesson the hard way. 5 days of fighting and swearing and i finally got mine in. The next time I had the engine out, upon transmission install, I held the clutch pedal down with a small board.
The input shaft popped in with a satisfying clunk.
Press the clutch pedal. You will be happy.
The input shaft popped in with a satisfying clunk.
Press the clutch pedal. You will be happy.
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From: Washington nj
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2015
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For this job new hoist leveller clutch install tool. And in the end I pulled the tranny and it went together easy. I mean easy. So it's back in bolted trans and motor. Just need to replace the strap kit for yolk.. Tomorrow start on installing fuel pump water pump reinstall power steering pump alternator etc.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,441
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From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
Your predicament is why my builder advised me not to pull the engine with the 4 speed...best not to disturb the shifting rods if you don't have to Plus it is easier to remove just the engine over the fender.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
Pull off the shift rods and check. What gear is it stuck in? You probably have it locked in reverse and a forward gear. With the shift rods off you should be able to engage and disengage each gear and see where the issue it.
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I did that and seems to be back to normal. All most done.
