Hello. Im having some issues firing up my engine.

Let me start with whats been done this winter:
New heads, camshaft, roller rockers, new carburetor, intake etc.

I know Im running between 6-7 psi fuel pressure.
Since the rebuild Ive driven about 3-400 miles without problems.

Last week I installed an supercharger and doublechecked all my valves and retightened them.

I put in the distributor again, and tried to crank the engine. I managed to get it started aftet twisting the distributor some. It ran for about 3-4 seconds and the blew a big white smokey sky out the carburetor. I tried both retarding and advancig the distributor, but never getting it to run for more than a few seconds feeling the throttle out.

When I installed the distributor I manually cranked the engine bit by bit til I felt my finger blow out of the number #1 cylinder. The compression stroke.

I stopped cranking the engine about 2 degrees after TDC. Then I installed the distributor so that the Pin in it would hit the cable for the #1 cylinder next. This is where I think I ****ed up. Should it maybe hit the #8 cylinder next when I have passed TDC on cylinder #1 compression stroke?

And, IF i did that, would the engine actually run on its own for a few seconds before backfiring?

I appreciate the help. And yes, the cables are installed in the correct order.

And it should be getting plenty of fuel. When I parked the car before I put the charger on, I had smoked pistons, showing that the mixture was way to fat.

 

Sounds like your distributor may be 180 out. Also who did the cam? Is the timing chain set correctly? Maybe the valves are to tight. Based on the fact you had to really twist the distributor to get it to start, I would guess you're 180 out.

 

If I were 180 out, The engine would it run on its own would it? It actually run for a solid 3-4 seconds without the starter before it poffed.

I have experience with adjusting the rockers, and they were all set to 0 lash and half a turn a few days ago.

The cam wheel has 3 settings, normal, retarded and advances. This is installed at normal. As I said, I've driver over 300 miles with this cam already and this entire setup without problems. A smoot running engine except it running to fat in mixture. I haven tinkled with the timing the last week. I just took the intake off and installed a new one with a supercharger on top of it. Then reinstalled the distributor. And new spark plugs.

 

Yes, it would run terrible if you turned the distributor enough. Pull it up and turn it 180 and drop it back in..see what happens.

 

Allright, I'll try that. Just to be clear. Since I have never had to do that ebfore. We're talking about taking the distributor cap of, and flipping just the distributor unit with the rotor, and putting the cap back on?

 

Curious why you set 2 degrees after TDC? Determine that you are on the compression stroke, finger method, watching rockers, whatever. Stop 10 degrees Before TDC. Stab distributor so that rotor is aligned with the distributor position you plan to put the #1 spark plug wire. Install wire from #1 cylinder to that distributor position and then install the remainder in the correct order. Have your timing light attached and ready to adjust to the timing to your desired setting. I have never had one not start using this method.

 

I have no idea why I went past. And im afraid that is my problem right now.

I have my timing light connected and ready, but before I can get the engine to run longer than 4 seconds that doesnt help.

As said, went past TDC, and I put the the distributor in so that it would hit the cable for the cylinder #1 next. So Im afraid that its now igniting cylinder 1 when it really should be igniting cylinder #8. Thus leaving it running for some time, but ****ing up once pressure builds and backfiring. Am I right?

Maybe Ill just pull it back out and do it all over again, leaving the distributor to hit #1 just before its TDC.

 

It really doesn't matter 'where' the distributor is installed as long as the plug wires are in the proper orientation...

So basically, drop it it in anywhere you like, remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing, and that will be Number One. Route the wires from that point in the normal firing order.

The only drawback is the physical positioning of the wires might not be correct, but there really is no such thing as being 180 degrees out.

Just 'sayin.

When I did mine after the engine swap, I used the starter bump and thumb method on the #1 (with a buddy), took a few tries, but got it to TDC without much trouble...

 

Actually, there is. What happens is the crank rotates two full cirlce to every one that the distributor spins. The piston will be at top dead center, but the rotor will be 180 from where it should be. Easiest way is rotate crank and watch number one cylinder valve springs. Keep going until intake valve starts closing just after it closes look at your timing mark. Line it up with the 8-10 degree mark. Then install distributor with rotor dead on with which ever terminal you select for number one wire. Should fire right up.

 

Just remember the 4 stroke principal of Suck/Squeeze/Bang/Blow. 1. Suck (air/fuel going in) 2. Squeeze (compressing air/fuel) 3. Bang (ignition of the plug, and piston being pushed down) 4. Blow (exhaust going out). You want the bang to happen when both valves are closed between Squeeze and Blow.

 

Here's what I do (kinda repeating other posts):
Pull #1 plug and put thumb over hole. Have someone click key until you feel compression.
Manually (or with key) turn engine and stop anywhere from 6* to 10* BTDC.
Stab distributor with rotor pointing towards #1 plug tower.
Hook up timing light and turn key to on position.
SLOWLY rotate distributer. When light flashes, sung up distributor hold down.
Prime carb and start.
Time engine as usual.
Easy $$.

 

Stand Corrected.

 

Generally speaking 180* out means the distributor was stabbed correctly, but on the exhaust stroke. You could move all the wires, but re-stabbing the distributor allows for proper plug wire routing.
Usually I hear the term "1 tooth off" which is not really true.
Anyone who hasn't stabbed a distributor 180* out hasn't stabbed enough distributors.
It's all good.

 

I appreciate all the answers and help.

After taking the time to look it over today, when not being so tired a light went up.
It was as I feared further up in this post.

The timing was waay to retarded. It ignited when the piston was on its way down after the compression stroke. So by advancing it even more it fired up nice and easy.

 

I had a similar scenario, had a buggar of a time getting it to stay running. Turned out when I bought my new harmonic balancer they gave one for a 305 instead of a 350.