When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 76 that the lower bolt and bushing has backed completly out of the A-arm. I need to get the lower A-arm off of the car in order to replace it. I have searched and read the tips on how to get the knuckle separated from the lower ball joint. I found this from Wilcox:
Jack the car up by the lower a-arm, place a jack stand under the frame to rest the car on. Lower the jack, (this leaves the A Arm free hanging) and loosen the nut on the ball joint about 1/8", then whack the side of the knuckle with a hammer, the joint should pop loose. You'll notice the 1/8" gap you raised the nut will be gone when it does.
Next, place the jack back under the A-Arm, jack it up and then remove the nut the rest of the way. Lower the arm slowly will release the spring tension... sounds easy, can be... but sometimes its not.
If the above fails then you'll need to rent you a ball joint removal tool or use a pickle fork.
Willcox
I have tried this and it has not worked for me. I tried a hammer, sledgehammer, and an air hammer with a blunt tip on the side of the knuckle. I tried a pickle fork and it still didn't come loose. I am still trying to wrap my head around how the above would work anyways. To me, the force of the A-arm is pushing the ball joint down into the knuckle. It just seems if you let the A-arm sit there free, the knuckle will always be forced up into the ball joint. Wouldn't you have to jack up the A-arm in order to put force in the correct direction to separate the ball joint from the knuckle? If trying to separate the upper joint. I think the above approach would work.
I recently changed out my springs and had a hard time getting the lower ball joint separated from the steering knuckle. I loosened the castle nut about 3/8 to 1/2 inch, and then used a ball joint separator to pop the ball joint loose from the knuckle.
I recently changed out my springs and had a hard time getting the lower ball joint separated from the steering knuckle. I loosened the castle nut about 3/8 to 1/2 inch, and then used a ball joint separator to pop the ball joint loose from the knuckle.
Not a good idea to apply heat to front end parts. I realize a propane torch is unlikely to apply enough heat to do serious damage, but it we suggest a propane torch, somebody will get the bright idea of using acetylene. You know, if some is good...
....I have tried this and it has not worked for me. I tried a hammer, sledgehammer, and an air hammer with a blunt tip on the side of the knuckle. I tried a pickle fork and it still didn't come loose. I am still trying to wrap my head around how the above would work anyways.
I can see, in your picture, where you've obviously smacked the "flat" on the side of the spindle. This is indeed where you whack the spindle, to loosen it's grip on the b/j's stud. HOWEVER, you have to have the weight off the b/j when you do this. You have to have a jack under the a-arm, lifting the a-arm, to relieve the weight.
AND as has been previously mentioned, be VERY careful of the coil spring. They store a LOT of energy.....
Try using 2 hammers- a big one on one side and then hit the other. Most of the front end parts have a little "spring" in them so the energy delivered hitting one side is not really given to the parts.
In the picture above you look to have a jack supporting the hub of the rotor....this isn't going to work. You need to move the jack to the lower A-arm and jack it up slightly, allow the weight of the spindle/rotor/brake caliper to work with you while you strike that flat on the spindle with a ball peen hammer, creating vibration....which will eventually get them to release.
In the picture above you look to have a jack supporting the hub of the rotor....this isn't going to work. You need to move the jack to the lower A-arm and jack it up slightly, allow the weight of the spindle/rotor/brake caliper to work with you while you strike that flat on the spindle with a ball peen hammer, creating vibration....which will eventually get them to release.
To add a point to what sstocker31 said: In your picture, the coil spring is pushing the lower control arm down against the knuckle, so you're working against both the ball joint and the spring. If you do separate the ball joint like you have it, the spring may become a projectile.
Thanks for the replies guys. That was what I was thinking. I need to try and put some pressure upwards on the a-arm in order to get the joint loose. I will try this tomorrow.
BTW, the jack in the picture isn't jacking up anything. I just had it sitting under the adapter to catch it just in case it tried to go too far after the joint separated.
if you're not replacing the ball joints you can just shock the top "easy to get at" spindle flat spot with a big mallet & remove the bottom control arm & spindle together. (after unbolting tie rod & sway bar).
Lower ball joint separation?
