those with vortec heads
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 798
Likes: 26
From: salinas CA
those with vortec heads
Been eyeing some naked heads and intake(150). Now i know i can get the beehive springs and retainers for about 200 to allow a higher lift cam. the next question is what cam to pick out? stock roller with 1.5 or 1.6. full roller set up or flat tapped.. this might be going on a stock replacement crate engine from a mid to late 70's engine(low compression low hp engine)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
The roller retrofit kits are a little expensive, you might be better off using a roller block to begin with. The beehive springs are great, but IIRC you'll still need to machine down the valve guides to get added lift without the retainers hitting the seals, but I'm not sure on that. They'll need a dedicated intake manifold too.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
These heads would be a good add to your motor, Eddie.
Like the others have said, adding machine work will quickly get in the way of the value aspect of Vortec heads.
Vortec heads are great heads to a certain point, and hit boat anchor status much beyond around 350 hp. You can still have a good time with them, but I'd stay close to their limits.
My recommendation would be to get a cam that doesn't require machining. If you want to go bigger than that, go with different heads. The 64cc chambers on the Vortecs will wake your engine up a decent amount, and you can go with thinner head gaskets to add some compression back in as well. It'll be a different beast when you're done.
Like the others have said, you'll need an intake as well - and I'd just go with a low rise dual plane like you have right now.
Like the others have said, adding machine work will quickly get in the way of the value aspect of Vortec heads.
Vortec heads are great heads to a certain point, and hit boat anchor status much beyond around 350 hp. You can still have a good time with them, but I'd stay close to their limits.
My recommendation would be to get a cam that doesn't require machining. If you want to go bigger than that, go with different heads. The 64cc chambers on the Vortecs will wake your engine up a decent amount, and you can go with thinner head gaskets to add some compression back in as well. It'll be a different beast when you're done.
Like the others have said, you'll need an intake as well - and I'd just go with a low rise dual plane like you have right now.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 289
From: Chardon Ohio
I just put Vortec heads on my 81. It was a mild crate engine with low compression (350/290) and it was a great upgrade. Also put in new cam Comp XE286. I love it now.
Here are my threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-opinions.html
And:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nter-mods.html
Jim
Here are my threads:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-opinions.html
And:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nter-mods.html
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 493
From: Salmon Arm, BC
For $50 you can buy yourself a guide cutter and guide from most any performance shop. Take those heads into your shop and perform the work yourself in an hour....it's super easy. I cut mine and run a hydraulic roller with 1.6 roller rockers and .544 lift.
If I was you I'd go roller cam if it's in your budget, for the street I'd stick with something along the lines of an XR270HR to XR282HR....depending on your tastes of what you like. If it's not in your budget, I'd look at the sticky up top about oils, and use one that is in the top category. I don't believe in using the zinc additives....I wiped a cam on breakin with that stuff and used all the proper procedures doing it.
Those heads are good for about 6000 RPM, although I used mine to 7300 RPM, you can tell they flatten out above 6000......use a cam that will peak below 6000.
Steel shim head gasket will get you to about 9.5 Comp. ratio.....perfect for the street
Changing to these heads will really wake up your car and make it a blast to drive on the street.
If I was you I'd go roller cam if it's in your budget, for the street I'd stick with something along the lines of an XR270HR to XR282HR....depending on your tastes of what you like. If it's not in your budget, I'd look at the sticky up top about oils, and use one that is in the top category. I don't believe in using the zinc additives....I wiped a cam on breakin with that stuff and used all the proper procedures doing it.
Those heads are good for about 6000 RPM, although I used mine to 7300 RPM, you can tell they flatten out above 6000......use a cam that will peak below 6000.
Steel shim head gasket will get you to about 9.5 Comp. ratio.....perfect for the street
Changing to these heads will really wake up your car and make it a blast to drive on the street.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Been eyeing some naked heads and intake(150). Now i know i can get the beehive springs and retainers for about 200 to allow a higher lift cam. the next question is what cam to pick out? stock roller with 1.5 or 1.6. full roller set up or flat tapped.. this might be going on a stock replacement crate engine from a mid to late 70's engine(low compression low hp engine)
Racer
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 264
Likes: 3
Howards Cams has good prices on retrofit hyd. roller cams. Match the cam to your compression ratio and rear axle/transmission.
A milder cam with the proper compression ratio will give you better performance than a thumpin cam with low compression.
A milder cam with the proper compression ratio will give you better performance than a thumpin cam with low compression.
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