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71 454 pressure testing cooling system

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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 01:26 PM
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Default 71 454 pressure testing cooling system

Having problems with cooling system,, my old radiator 4 core kept the 454 at 180 with 16 in electric fan. I went with a new aluminum radiator because it was having cooling problems,, the new radiator is 3 core CC1215 and should cool better ???, I don't think that's the problem,, the old radiator blew the hose coming from waterpump to the expantion tank,, it is a 71 ls5 car with automatic and ac,, question,, should there be circulation I can see in the expantion tank ? seems like it was circulating before and I could see it well,, if so then I need to see if I have stopped up lines,, the expantion tank gets hot and radiator so I think the waterpump is working right,, but no circulation that I can visually see in the expantion tank,, next, I pressure tested the system with 16 pounds on the tester, cranked the car up and ran for just a minute and it started raising up to higher lbs, over 18 is this normal, now I am going to test with no pressure on tester and see what happens,,, any sugestions , I tried using block tester but I don't have a lot of trust in this,, it tested negative for exhaust gasses.

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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 02:09 PM
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when cold I pumped pressure tester to 16lbs and ran engine,, the pressure climbed, now I just tested it with no pressure on the tested when engine a bit warm, and it only went up to 8 lbs pressure and temp climbed to 200 range,, I pumped up the pressure tester with engine warm and running and it didn't seem to keep going up,, when I shut engine down,, pressure drops and I know if I keep pumping it up,, it has to go somewhere,, I should take out plugs and see if water comes out when I turn it over but right now Im tired of burns from the headers,,,,, I was in hope that the first test of climbing pressure when cold, would tell me something,, or no visucal circulation of water in expantion tank, I don't have water in oil,, I don't seem to be loosing any fluid in an amount I notice,, I may try to take a hwy cruse and see if temp drops, then I will know I need more fan,, but don't see why it worked before, with stock radiator at idle and hwy and not now with a better radiator, ?

Last edited by Dane Laney; Jul 9, 2015 at 02:16 PM. Reason: to explain better
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane Laney
when cold I pumped pressure tester to 16lbs and ran engine,, the pressure climbed, now I just tested it with no pressure on the tested when engine a bit warm, and it only went up to 8 lbs pressure and temp climbed to 200 range,, I pumped up the pressure tester with engine warm and running and it didn't seem to keep going up,, when I shut engine down,, pressure drops and I know if I keep pumping it up,, it has to go somewhere,, I should take out plugs and see if water comes out when I turn it over but right now Im tired of burns from the headers,,,,, I was in hope that the first test of climbing pressure when cold, would tell me something,, or no visucal circulation of water in expantion tank, I don't have water in oil,, I don't seem to be loosing any fluid in an amount I notice,, I may try to take a hwy cruse and see if temp drops, then I will know I need more fan,, but don't see why it worked before, with stock radiator at idle and hwy and not now with a better radiator, ?
If the pressure tester connects where the radiator cap goes then you no longer have the built in pressure regulation of the cap. If your expansion tank is like mine there will be no circulation in it. The level can go up a little when the engine heats up and some coolant expands out through the radiator cap and go back down as it cools off. When you changed the radiator did you make sure to replace all of the seals? Did you change anything else, such as the ignition timing? You do have the shroud back on and the fan working correctly, don't you?
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 02:55 PM
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I was under the impression all the pressure tested is used for was to check for leaks
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
I was under the impression all the pressure tested is used for was to check for leaks
Ditto. Not sure why you would pressure check and then start the engine? I guess you could put the gauge on and run it to see if it over pressurizes due to bad head gasket, but you wouldn't pressurize it to 16, and then run it, with nowhere to bleed off excess pressure...
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLentz
If the pressure tester connects where the radiator cap goes then you no longer have the built in pressure regulation of the cap. If your expansion tank is like mine there will be no circulation in it. The level can go up a little when the engine heats up and some coolant expands out through the radiator cap and go back down as it cools off. When you changed the radiator did you make sure to replace all of the seals? Did you change anything else, such as the ignition timing? You do have the shroud back on and the fan working correctly, don't you?
All seals are good, my expansion is one that comes on the Ls5 with AC , it may be 1971 only with 454, ac and automatic , good to know there is no visual circulation in the expansion tank,, I could of sworn I saw it swirling around with cap off at earlier date,, but if expansion tank and radiator is getting hot then the water pump must be working
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gungatim
Ditto. Not sure why you would pressure check and then start the engine? I guess you could put the gauge on and run it to see if it over pressurizes due to bad head gasket, but you wouldn't pressurize it to 16, and then run it, with nowhere to bleed off excess pressure...
I am looking for a head gasket leak or crack somewhere letting exhaust gasses excaping into the coolant making excess pressure and or heat, when cold start up it built up pressure fast, after it was warm and I repeated the test it didn't seem to continue building pressure
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane Laney
All seals are good, my expansion is one that comes on the Ls5 with AC , it may be 1971 only with 454, ac and automatic , good to know there is no visual circulation in the expansion tank,, I could of sworn I saw it swirling around with cap off at earlier date,, but if expansion tank and radiator is getting hot then the water pump must be working
should I be building pressure up in the coolant system ? I guess when it gets hot it does build up pressure,, and if I started out putting pressure in the tester to 16lbs, and then ran the engine it would of built up more pressure in the system,, but Im not so sure it would of been immediate like it was, it didn't seem to raise pressure once the engine was warm, Also when it was cold it held the pressure pretty good at 16lbs, but when it was hot,, I was loosing pressure a lot faster then when it was cold,, is that normal
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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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Do these tests with the engine not running. Cold engine, pump up tester to 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Warm engine repeat 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Remove spark plugs and pressurize cooling system. Does pressure still hold?
If yes will it hold pressure for more than 1 hr?
If yes to all cooling system is sound. If no you have a leak. Be sure to verify heater core is not leaking before condemning engine.
Test your radiator cap does it hold pressure to its rated psi? does it vent if over pressurized?

One thing to remember water heaters are made to suck. any hose running to the water pump is feeding it. Water is drawn into the pump via the hoses and pushed out the back into the block

Last edited by AzMotorhead; Jul 9, 2015 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
Do these tests with the engine not running. Cold engine, pump up tester to 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Warm engine repeat 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Remove spark plugs and pressurize cooling system. Does pressure still hold?
If yes will it hold pressure for more than 1 hr?
If yes to all cooling system is sound. If no you have a leak. Be sure to verify heater core is not leaking before condemning engine.
Test your radiator cap does it hold pressure to its rated psi? does it vent if over pressurized?

One thing to remember water heaters are made to suck. any hose running to the water pump is feeding it. Water is drawn into the pump via the hoses and pushed out the back into the block
OK great to know, thank you,, the hose going to the expansion tank from the water pump really is flowing from the expansion tank to the water pump then,, and the hose coming from the heater core to the intake is flowing from the intake and being sucked into the heater core? thank you for explaining the pressure tests,
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane Laney
Having problems with cooling system,, my old radiator 4 core kept the 454 at 180 with 16 in electric fan. I went with a new aluminum radiator because it was having cooling problems,, the new radiator is 3 core CC1215 and should cool better ???, I don't think that's the problem,, the old radiator blew the hose coming from waterpump to the expantion tank,, it is a 71 ls5 car with automatic and ac,, question,, should there be circulation I can see in the expantion tank ? seems like it was circulating before and I could see it well,, if so then I need to see if I have stopped up lines,, the expantion tank gets hot and radiator so I think the waterpump is working right,, but no circulation that I can visually see in the expantion tank,, next, I pressure tested the system with 16 pounds on the tester, cranked the car up and ran for just a minute and it started raising up to higher lbs, over 18 is this normal, now I am going to test with no pressure on tester and see what happens,,, any sugestions , I tried using block tester but I don't have a lot of trust in this,, it tested negative for exhaust gasses.
I can't believe I did this,, I did purchase new seals for the radiator,, they stayed with the old radiator,, the new one was so tight they wouldn't work, I had always planned on sealing the side,, the biggest rule on cooling a BB C3 sealing the radiator,, yes in deed, just an eighth of an inch was enough for hot air to come back around and cause it to run hotter,,, I do think I still have a leaky head gasket, that only leaks at certain temps, But as far as when I sealed the sides and tried it,, it only got to 182 degrees, now it was cooler temp outside not in the 90's like the day before,, But I do think I have it where I can drive it a bit,, I am sure the head gasket will continue to get worse,, that is another story,, thanks all for the help.. I still can't believe I forgot to get back to the seals the sides,, so now I'm going to go for a ride today and see what happens,, thanks again for all the help. I forget more each day but driving a monster around seems to make it all better

Last edited by Dane Laney; Jul 10, 2015 at 12:13 PM. Reason: wording
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 12:59 PM
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Whatever you don't use the pressure tester on a running engine.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane Laney
I can't believe I did this,, I did purchase new seals for the radiator,, they stayed with the old radiator,, the new one was so tight they wouldn't work, I had always planned on sealing the side,, the biggest rule on cooling a BB C3 sealing the radiator,, yes in deed, just an eighth of an inch was enough for hot air to come back around and cause it to run hotter,,, I do think I still have a leaky head gasket, that only leaks at certain temps, But as far as when I sealed the sides and tried it,, it only got to 182 degrees, now it was cooler temp outside not in the 90's like the day before,, But I do think I have it where I can drive it a bit,, I am sure the head gasket will continue to get worse,, that is another story,, thanks all for the help.. I still can't believe I forgot to get back to the seals the sides,, so now I'm going to go for a ride today and see what happens,, thanks again for all the help. I forget more each day but driving a monster around seems to make it all better
Let us know how it goes. On my '77 I was having problems on the highway and tried all kinds of things. Ultimately I found out the timing was retarder quite a bit. The timing marks are off I believe because of a bad balancer.
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 02:05 PM
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if you have a bad head gasket and it only leaks a little, and continues to get worse, you are asking for a destroyed motor. it can eat away at head, block, you know what coolant in the oil does to a bearing for even a short time?

SBC's are a dime a dozen, period big blocks are another story. I'd have those heads off this weekend if it were me...couple bucks in gaskets and anti-freeze, and in a few hours your back in business...
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AzMotorhead
Do these tests with the engine not running. Cold engine, pump up tester to 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Warm engine repeat 16-18 psi does pressure hold?
Remove spark plugs and pressurize cooling system. Does pressure still hold?
If yes will it hold pressure for more than 1 hr?
If yes to all cooling system is sound. If no you have a leak. Be sure to verify heater core is not leaking before condemning engine.
Test your radiator cap does it hold pressure to its rated psi? does it vent if over pressurized?

One thing to remember water heaters are made to suck. any hose running to the water pump is feeding it. Water is drawn into the pump via the hoses and pushed out the back into the block
When engine is warm and I preform 16psi test and it holds. Do you mean in an hour it should still have 16psi, or that it should still have some pressure like 12psi an hour later ?

Last edited by Dane Laney; Jul 10, 2015 at 02:16 PM. Reason: wording
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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As it cools some pressure will drop. From 16 to 12 I think would be acceptable. As long as you don't lose all the pressure as it sits.
On these type of older cooling systems it was common to always hear a little "Glug Glug" from the coolant as you undid the cap
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 04:07 PM
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Did you burp all air out of system?
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gungatim
if you have a bad head gasket and it only leaks a little, and continues to get worse, you are asking for a destroyed motor. it can eat away at head, block, you know what coolant in the oil does to a bearing for even a short time?

SBC's are a dime a dozen, period big blocks are another story. I'd have those heads off this weekend if it were me...couple bucks in gaskets and anti-freeze, and in a few hours your back in business...
I wish I could, I am just not in a place to do that right now

Last edited by Dane Laney; Jul 14, 2015 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Calo69
Did you burp all air out of system?
yes sir,, I didn't forget to do that,, I think it was just the seals on the sides,, brain freeze,, I am going to go for a ride today finally to see what happens,, I have it at 180 degrees at mid afternoon warm at idle, and that's where it ran before,, it did drop down to 160 on interstate I am now remembering that,, I never had the front spoilers to put more air into the radiator,, there was never a need but I always wanted too,, so eventually that will happen,, hopefully it will run the same temps it always did and everything will be fine,, thanks for your interest and help
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane Laney
yes sir,, I didn't forget to do that,, I think it was just the seals on the sides,, brain freeze,, I am going to go for a ride today finally to see what happens,, I have it at 180 degrees at mid afternoon warm at idle, and that's where it ran before,, it did drop down to 160 on interstate I am now remembering that,, I never had the front spoilers to put more air into the radiator,, there was never a need but I always wanted too,, so eventually that will happen,, hopefully it will run the same temps it always did and everything will be fine,, thanks for your interest and help
Good luck, read in your post you were on disability, around here they get people on camera doing heavy jobs, triathlons etc. don't know your particulars just a heads up if you work out in open.
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