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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 73
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Im driving a 327 with 72cc heads and a radical camshaft.
My compression ratio static is 9.3:1
On my engine I installed a Weiand 144 and a hydraulic flat tappet cam with roller rockers. MSD ignition and custom headers.
Running about 500-550HP. It still holds up, but I just had to install a crankcase evacuation system due to blowby on my piston rings. Im not expecting my engine to survive the season due to drag racing. But if you drive it nice, yea, you can add a couple of psi of boost. Just make sure youre compression ratio is low enough. 9:1 or below at least.
EDIT:
I forgot to mention that my pistons, crankshaft and rods are "original". In the way that they are not forged. except for the crankshaft that is... To much funky stuff going on with the engine build for me to mention. Lesson being, dont do excessive comp ratio.
My compression ratio static is 9.3:1
On my engine I installed a Weiand 144 and a hydraulic flat tappet cam with roller rockers. MSD ignition and custom headers.
Running about 500-550HP. It still holds up, but I just had to install a crankcase evacuation system due to blowby on my piston rings. Im not expecting my engine to survive the season due to drag racing. But if you drive it nice, yea, you can add a couple of psi of boost. Just make sure youre compression ratio is low enough. 9:1 or below at least.
EDIT:
I forgot to mention that my pistons, crankshaft and rods are "original". In the way that they are not forged. except for the crankshaft that is... To much funky stuff going on with the engine build for me to mention. Lesson being, dont do excessive comp ratio.
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 530
Likes: 10
Probably yank it out and build an engine specifically to be supercharged.
You will want to go with splayed steel 4 bolt mains, forged crank, forged or billet rods, pistons (or at least hypereutectic) and make sure the heads and pistons you are using combined with the cam you will be using deliver a low enough effective compression ratio to avoid detonation... For the cam you will want to go hydraulic roller with full roller rockers and a double roller timing set.
Chances are your stock engine doesn't have any of that stuff in it... it probably has 2 bolt iron caps, nodular iron crank, plain steel rods, cast pistons, flat tappet cam, stamped rockers, etc. About the only thing that might be close is the compression ratio may be low... but that will likely be due to large chamber smog heads which also have small ports and valves and more or less flat top pistons... where you will want small chambers and large ports and valves with dished top pistons...
You will want to go with splayed steel 4 bolt mains, forged crank, forged or billet rods, pistons (or at least hypereutectic) and make sure the heads and pistons you are using combined with the cam you will be using deliver a low enough effective compression ratio to avoid detonation... For the cam you will want to go hydraulic roller with full roller rockers and a double roller timing set.
Chances are your stock engine doesn't have any of that stuff in it... it probably has 2 bolt iron caps, nodular iron crank, plain steel rods, cast pistons, flat tappet cam, stamped rockers, etc. About the only thing that might be close is the compression ratio may be low... but that will likely be due to large chamber smog heads which also have small ports and valves and more or less flat top pistons... where you will want small chambers and large ports and valves with dished top pistons...
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
Probably yank it out and build an engine specifically to be supercharged.
You will want to go with splayed steel 4 bolt mains, forged crank, forged or billet rods, pistons (or at least hypereutectic) and make sure the heads and pistons you are using combined with the cam you will be using deliver a low enough effective compression ratio to avoid detonation... For the cam you will want to go hydraulic roller with full roller rockers and a double roller timing set.
Chances are your stock engine doesn't have any of that stuff in it... it probably has 2 bolt iron caps, nodular iron crank, plain steel rods, cast pistons, flat tappet cam, stamped rockers, etc. About the only thing that might be close is the compression ratio may be low... but that will likely be due to large chamber smog heads which also have small ports and valves and more or less flat top pistons... where you will want small chambers and large ports and valves with dished top pistons...
You will want to go with splayed steel 4 bolt mains, forged crank, forged or billet rods, pistons (or at least hypereutectic) and make sure the heads and pistons you are using combined with the cam you will be using deliver a low enough effective compression ratio to avoid detonation... For the cam you will want to go hydraulic roller with full roller rockers and a double roller timing set.
Chances are your stock engine doesn't have any of that stuff in it... it probably has 2 bolt iron caps, nodular iron crank, plain steel rods, cast pistons, flat tappet cam, stamped rockers, etc. About the only thing that might be close is the compression ratio may be low... but that will likely be due to large chamber smog heads which also have small ports and valves and more or less flat top pistons... where you will want small chambers and large ports and valves with dished top pistons...
Okay. I will support this and withdraw my last statement.
I've propably spent about 10K on my engine this winter. New tops, intake and supercharger, roller rockers, CES, carburetor, fittings, radiator, crankshaft. The list goes on. My engine is built to comply with pressure, except for crankshaft, rods and pistons. And to be honest. Im not expecting them to last.
But however... if your ready to later on put money in to your engine. Just do boost, run until it says cabooom, buy a new block, and do it right
