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Dumb question.....but I though I would ask before I go lifting the thing in the air......
Can the engine and trans be installed together without removing the rad support?
There looks like enough room but eh....maybe not....
Say if I lifted the front up and had the assembly on enough of an angle?
I know about tilter lift set ups and all that.......just want to know if anyone has done it.
It is much easier to install trans when motor is out.
You did not say what transmission you have. That said I have installed small blocks with a Muncie trans without issue. The biggest thing is using tape to hold the trans yoke in place so you do not drop fluid everywhere.
A note of caution - the front will rise up considerably when the engine comes off its mounts. The first time I did this I almost ran out of room on my hoist.
A note of caution - the front will rise up considerably when the engine comes off its mounts. The first time I did this I almost ran out of room on my hoist.
Engine is out.....putting it back in.....I took them out separate as I was trying to track down an imbalance issue.
Engine will be ready soon....waiting for a couple of parts.....
My biggest concern is that once the tailshaft is poked in there....is there enough room to sneak it over the front of the crossmember?
Sitting here analyzing it.....I will put a couple of ramps in the back and use the front eye hoop of my engine lift plate.....
Give her the old college try.
If anyone else can confirm that the trans will sneak in front of the crossmember once the assemble is leveled off...I would like to hear it.
Thanks ahead of time....
BTW.....many pictures to come of the 500hp/406 setup in my 72'
Some here have seen it.....no stone was unturned.
Maybe I will just jerk out the Rad support and paint it......I have gone this far.....
I pulled my old 350 with 700r4 still attached and radiator support still in. I used a engine leveler to do it and it was tight getting it out. But it can be done.
I put both in. No lifting front or rear. Used a leveler to tilt the trans down until it cleared. Took the rad out, but support was left in.
Hope this helps.
I put both in. No lifting front or rear. Used a leveler to tilt the trans down until it cleared. Took the rad out, but support was left in.
Hope this helps.
I have a Harbor Freight within walking distance......
I think I will pull the rad and purchase a leveler.
If anyone else can confirm that the trans will sneak in front of the crossmember once the assemble is leveled off...I would like to hear it.
Jebby
I've done this a couple of times by myself. Once made a little "sled" on rollers for the tailshaft to slide in close to the crossmember. A lot of up and down but it can be done. Helps to have a buddy. The car needs to be up high enough that you can reach under there.
Good to know.....the fact that it will fit when the tail is slipped up is the main concern....
I have a buddy...and ramps, stands...whatever....
Going to yank the rad and try it....
Thank you for the confirm....some of the easiest questions sometimes can be hardest to answer.
But opinions are great before I lift it in there and have to lift it back out!
I have done this s few times and just again last Saturday. I installed my small block with the 700r4.
Radiator out and radiator support in.
Many portable lifts have too short of boom for the C3 long front end.
With the front and rear on the ground I place a jack stand just forward of drivers door and remove left front tire.
Then engine/trans goes in over the front as far a possible without hurting the nose with hoist. Then rotate the hoist to driver side and work engine down and back until it's located over front mounts. Jack tail shaft up so the cross member can be install. Then rest engine in all mounts.
I just did this by myself. Take your time and and watch all around.
Lol! I have help available just wanted to do it alone.
Yep....when I jerked it out....I went in from the front/side....boom legs around the tire....it made it particularly hard as I have a front monoleaf....but I got it.
I've only done a few engine in/outs in my life. I always remove the engine/bellhousing/tranny as a single stack and also replace it all as one complete stack. You don't have to remove the radiator support for either a BB or a SB. You absolutely need a load leveler. I can do both the removal and installation by myself. Amazing...the entire engine/bellhousing/tranny stack is only held into the car by four bolts!!
Take the engine out by itself and leave the bellhousing/tranny in the car..I can do that, but installing the engine back in the car and mating it up to the bellhousing/tranny in the car...I can't do that. i know that other people can, but I'm not that skilled...especially by working by myself.
I've only done a few engine in/outs in my life. I always remove the engine/bellhousing/tranny as a single stack and also replace it all as one complete stack. You don't have to remove the radiator support for either a BB or a SB. You absolutely need a load leveler. I can do both the removal and installation by myself. Amazing...the entire engine/bellhousing/tranny stack is only held into the car by four bolts!!
Take the engine out by itself and leave the bellhousing/tranny in the car..I can do that, but installing the engine back in the car and mating it up to the bellhousing/tranny in the car...I can't do that. i know that other people can, but I'm not that skilled...especially by working by myself.
Done hundreds of swaps......always pulled the engine by itself in a Vette.
Kinda strange I know....but that is the way it went down over the years.
I know now that bench pressing a Muncie level under the car sucks.
Just wanted to make sure I had the room to sneak it in there.
These are great replies, and exactly what I am looking for.