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Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@#
I am trying to install my Hooker Super Comp. headers and I can not start all the header bolts! All the bolts start in all the holes when the header is not in place, so the bolts and holes are fine. It seems the bolt holes in the header flange are a little off. I guess I have to enlarge the holes a little to allow some slop to get the bolts started. Is this a common problem when installing headers. Do they make header bolts with starter points? I also heard of cutting the flange between the pairs of pipes to get them to fit. What have you done.
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (76greg)
I cut the flange between the pipes. Not only did this allow me to move the pipes some when installing, but I now don't have to remove the H2O sensor from the head or the oil dipstick to install/ remove ;) .
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (SmokedTires)
Can I put in studs with lock washers and nuts instead of bolts. It seems I could just thread in the studs to the head and line up the header to the studs, push the header flush and install the lock washers and nuts. If I do studs, what grade of stud do I use? 3, 5 or 8? I see that Summit sells stud kits for headers, Kind of pricey at $42. I would just get some bolts and cut off the heads to use as studs. :yesnod:
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (76greg)
One of the bolt holes on my Headman headers was slightly off which caused the bolt to cross thread. To solve the problem I clearanced the hole with a dremel tool.
Some of the bolt heads were so close to the tube that I couldn't get my wrench on them. I put a mild dent in the tube next to the bolt head and used a bench grinder to thin the sides of the box end wrench.
I'm using Stage 8 locking header bolts ordered from Summit.
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (76greg)
I would use nothing less that Grade 8. Studs are good but if the holes is far off, you can monkey up the threads on the bolts gettting the header flush against the Head.
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (rreavis)
The holes look right on but when I try to start the bolt it just won't grab! I hate to have to drop the headers back out to drill / grind out the holes to give that 1/64 inch it would take to get the bolt to start. Maybe I will just try to enlarge the hole with the headers just backed away from the head, or try the stud thing. Grade 8 is what you guys are recommending? I can get 12 grade 8 - 3/8 16 NC x 1 inch hex head bolts for two bucks at the hardware store and cut the heads off and use nuts and lock washers. :rolleyes:
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (76greg)
Get yourself some o-rings to fit the bolt threads, with the header flange away from the head put the bolts in the holes and put the o-rings around the threads to hold them in place. Start the bolts all a little at the same time working from in to out. This gives you a little fudge room when the flange is not against the head. When you run the motor the o-rings will harmlessly "go away" :cheers:
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (69Myway)
Had the identical problem on my BOSS 302 when I put the Hookers on. Drivers side had one hole that just wasn't right. I drilled it out larger and it went right together. Even so, they seem to be the best fitting headers out, at least as far as clearances go. I'm drooling over those Stahl sidepipe headers, though....
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (Wrencher)
I use small head headerbults. They're small enough to allow me to get a 1/4" drive socket on them to tighten them.
Better than Stage 8's
Better than Cap screws
No more open ended wrenches!
But I did have to chuck them up in the drill press and reduce the dia of the shoulder...just a little
Re: Hooker Headers - Can't get all the bolts started! @#%$@# (76greg)
I had the same problem when I installed my Dynomax Ceramacoat headers. Here's the trick I used. Instead of using the header bolts use the bolts that are used with the stock rams horn manifolds. They are much longer. You can put them in the headers and start the threads on them while keeping the header about 1 or 2 inches away from the heads. This allows you to thread the bolts into the heads but still allows enough play to position the headers exactly on the heads. Once you've done that just remove one bolt at a time and replace it with a header bolt. That and a lot of cussin' will get the job done. Beer is also a great lubricant but don't get it on your paint.