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Hard cranking when hot, need help

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Old 09-09-2015, 10:39 AM
  #21  
pws69
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Originally Posted by samdjr74
The battery terminals and cables seem fine. A few folks suggested either a timing issue or heat problem on the starter. For the starter it seems like a remote solenoid and new starter might do the trick.
A "Remote Solenoid" does absolutely nothing positive - it does add more resistance and another point of failure.

Removing ALL cable connections, sanding the "junk" off of them, and reconnecting is a good first step.
Old 09-09-2015, 04:11 PM
  #22  
samdjr74
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Ok, I was able to grab some videos, unfortunately the one playing the problem isn't a good example as the car seems to be ok today but I think you'll still get an idea of the issue. So here's the first video as the car normally starts in the morning, this is how it should start all the time



And now for the second video, listen to how it struggles when I try to start it, the excess noise in the background is road noise

Old 09-10-2015, 03:43 PM
  #23  
Haggisbash
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I looked at your vid I assume you were measuring the battery voltage at the battery? What happens when you do the same test at the starter motor?
Old 09-10-2015, 03:54 PM
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samdjr74
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Correct, I ran the test with the leads connected to the battery directly.

I have not tried it at the starter but I will. I pulled the battery this morning and had it tested, no problem but it needed a little charge. Still within specs so it's being charged right now.

Originally Posted by Haggisbash
I looked at your vid I assume you were measuring the battery voltage at the battery? What happens when you do the same test at the starter motor?
Old 09-10-2015, 04:21 PM
  #25  
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The battery Volts looked okay to me (at the battery) but its what happens at the and of the long connection to the starter that is important. The cable although looking okay on the outside has been known to fail internally.
Old 09-10-2015, 07:29 PM
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derekderek
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Originally Posted by samdjr74
Thanks all, just a FYI, new starter was installed on Saturday
ok, what did you get for a starter?
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:32 PM
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derekderek
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starter on left is a low torque. small armature. on right is a high torque. large diameter armature. you can tell diff by location of the post that the solenoid attaches to the field housing. the high torque is farther forwardd.
Old 09-10-2015, 07:35 PM
  #28  
samdjr74
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I bought a stock replacement. I'm going to check the wiring in the morning , clean my connections and see what happens. If I still have the issue I'll try the starter wrap, if that fixes it I will invest in a good hi torque mini starter this winter.

Originally Posted by derekderek
starter on left is a low torque. small armature. on right is a high torque. large diameter armature. you can tell diff by location of the post that the solenoid attaches to the field housing. the high torque is farther forwardd.
Old 09-10-2015, 08:34 PM
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Your car is a 454. It SHOULD be a high torque. Doesn' nscessarily mean what they handed you IS a high torque. The low tork is fine for 305's, 350's and such. Will crank a cold 454 ok. I did starters and alternators for a couple years. For a broke guy. Saw firsthand the corners some builders will cut.

Last edited by derekderek; 09-10-2015 at 08:36 PM.
Old 09-10-2015, 08:37 PM
  #30  
Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by derekderek
Your car is a 454. It SHOULD be a high torque. Doesn' nscessarily mean what they handed you IS a high torque. The low tork is fine for 305's, 350's and such. Will crank a cold 454 ok.
Another reason it's good to rebuild your original starter is the nose cone. 454 had an iron nose cone. If a 454 backfires while starting, that aluminum cone will snap like a twig.
Old 09-10-2015, 09:11 PM
  #31  
samdjr74
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My car has a stock 350 in it, not a 454 unless this post was meant for someone else.

Originally Posted by derekderek
Your car is a 454. It SHOULD be a high torque. Doesn' nscessarily mean what they handed you IS a high torque. The low tork is fine for 305's, 350's and such. Will crank a cold 454 ok. I did starters and alternators for a couple years. For a broke guy. Saw firsthand the corners some builders will cut.
Old 09-10-2015, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by samdjr74
My car has a stock 350 in it, not a 454 unless this post was meant for someone else.
Sorry, i misremembered from earlier in this thread. Still should be a hi torque.
Old 09-10-2015, 10:20 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by samdjr74
My car has a stock 350 in it, not a 454 unless this post was meant for someone else.
Oops. I didn't read the whole thread. My bad.
Old 09-10-2015, 10:24 PM
  #34  
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Make sure the ground connection to the frame is clean. Check the voltage across the battery with your DVOM. Leave the DVOM positive lead on the post and move the ground lead to the other end of the negative battery cable where it connects to the car. The voltage should be very close, but not exact. When it's hot and will not crank, check the positive voltage at the starter.
Old 09-10-2015, 10:28 PM
  #35  
samdjr74
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So it looks like the high torque in the picture



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