Hard cranking when hot, need help
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Removing ALL cable connections, sanding the "junk" off of them, and reconnecting is a good first step.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
Ok, I was able to grab some videos, unfortunately the one playing the problem isn't a good example as the car seems to be ok today but I think you'll still get an idea of the issue. So here's the first video as the car normally starts in the morning, this is how it should start all the time
And now for the second video, listen to how it struggles when I try to start it, the excess noise in the background is road noise
And now for the second video, listen to how it struggles when I try to start it, the excess noise in the background is road noise
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
Correct, I ran the test with the leads connected to the battery directly.
I have not tried it at the starter but I will. I pulled the battery this morning and had it tested, no problem but it needed a little charge. Still within specs so it's being charged right now.
I have not tried it at the starter but I will. I pulled the battery this morning and had it tested, no problem but it needed a little charge. Still within specs so it's being charged right now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
The battery Volts looked okay to me (at the battery) but its what happens at the and of the long connection to the starter that is important. The cable although looking okay on the outside has been known to fail internally.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
starter on left is a low torque. small armature. on right is a high torque. large diameter armature. you can tell diff by location of the post that the solenoid attaches to the field housing. the high torque is farther forwardd.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
I bought a stock replacement. I'm going to check the wiring in the morning , clean my connections and see what happens. If I still have the issue I'll try the starter wrap, if that fixes it I will invest in a good hi torque mini starter this winter.
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Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
Your car is a 454. It SHOULD be a high torque. Doesn' nscessarily mean what they handed you IS a high torque. The low tork is fine for 305's, 350's and such. Will crank a cold 454 ok. I did starters and alternators for a couple years. For a broke guy. Saw firsthand the corners some builders will cut.
Last edited by derekderek; Sep 10, 2015 at 08:36 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Another reason it's good to rebuild your original starter is the nose cone. 454 had an iron nose cone. If a 454 backfires while starting, that aluminum cone will snap like a twig.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 3
From: Pequannock NJ
My car has a stock 350 in it, not a 454 unless this post was meant for someone else.
Your car is a 454. It SHOULD be a high torque. Doesn' nscessarily mean what they handed you IS a high torque. The low tork is fine for 305's, 350's and such. Will crank a cold 454 ok. I did starters and alternators for a couple years. For a broke guy. Saw firsthand the corners some builders will cut.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
Make sure the ground connection to the frame is clean. Check the voltage across the battery with your DVOM. Leave the DVOM positive lead on the post and move the ground lead to the other end of the negative battery cable where it connects to the car. The voltage should be very close, but not exact. When it's hot and will not crank, check the positive voltage at the starter.