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I thought I was going to have to replace or shim the clutch pack because of end play. I think one of the c-clips slipped out of place on the driver side causing more end play. Does that look accurate judgin by the pic?
That's what I figured. I was just hoping... Lol. Gears look to be in good shape though. What do you guys recommend I do at this point? Is swapping side yokes the extent of the job and is this something that is fairly easy to do the first time?
Swapping the yokes is pretty straight forward. Don't buy the cheap ones, someone here will recommend good ones. Be sure to clean out the diff, all the metal from those worn yokes is probably trapped in the pocket between the pinion bearings,flush it well.
Swapping the yokes is pretty straight forward. Don't buy the cheap ones, someone here will recommend good ones. Be sure to clean out the diff, all the metal from those worn yokes is probably trapped in the pocket between the pinion bearings,flush it well.
Good news. Thanks a bunch for the quick responses. I guess I'll have a local shop chemical tank it for me after I'm done with the swap. Might as well clean it up and make it look pretty.
is there anything that causes this? Like, is there something that needs adjustment for this not to happen? Or is it because of the non-hardened material (assuming it is the soft stuff)?
Edit: for all I know this is the original setup
Last edited by Strokemyaxe; Aug 7, 2015 at 10:37 PM.
is there anything that causes this? Like, is there something that needs adjustment for this not to happen? Or is it because of the non-hardened material (assuming it is the soft stuff)?
Its turning corners that causes that. Once the wear gets to the snap rings its time to replace the yokes.
is there anything that causes this? Like, is there something that needs adjustment for this not to happen? Or is it because of the non-hardened material (assuming it is the soft stuff)?
Being a machinist I realized when I disassembled my differential and found one C-clip destroyed and the other one starting to fail, I saw that the grooves in the shafts were not machined deep enough to prevent the C-clips from failing.......
I didn't have an engine lathe available....so I used the trusty dremel tool and machinist calipers to cut the grooves to the correct depth (the Machinist Handbook has charts for cutting grooves).
Is that the "wearable part" for the dif? It seems these things are built to last forever by the looks of them.
If you look at the last pic in post #10, the stubb axle in the forground clearly shows a nice chamfer at the end of the axle. once that chamfer is gone your at the limit. Many have gone far more than that though.....including mine.
I agree with '75 that you should stay away from the cheap ones, those are about hard as wet noodles.
20 years ago, highly recommend source for my yokes was Yogi Behr however that is spelled.....at any rate the yokes were rebuilts, and stil in the car.....I dunno the guy still in business or not, or who what, all I can say, damn good product back when....maybe look at the cross shaft also, sometimes they get flat sided from the yokes.....MINE was fine, so I have no suggestion for a source on that one.....
20 years ago, highly recommend source for my yokes was Yogi Behr however that is spelled.....at any rate the yokes were rebuilts, and stil in the car.....I dunno the guy still in business or not, or who what, all I can say, damn good product back when....maybe look at the cross shaft also, sometimes they get flat sided from the yokes.....MINE was fine, so I have no suggestion for a source on that one.....
Yes, they are still in business and doing well... Bair's Corvettes, 814-683-4223, Linesville PA.
I believe that they come to Corvettes at Carlisle each August as well.
Opened rear dif, please take a look..
