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Got out to the garage yesterday to search where the rubber bits i found in the driveway came from.
Only two years old and they falling apart. Got them from a local parts house in town when i replaced the rear-end cover. I am going to say they are the Poly type of material. Considering i got 38 years out of the original rubber ones that's what i ordered from Willcox. Is this normal for the Poly bushings?
Any certain brand or manufacture of the poly stuff that does this? What if one did a complete car with it?
I used the rubber original style on mine and it still looks like new.
I will post a photo later, my camera battery is dead.
I got them from Corvette Central and they have been on for
over 2 years.
Those look like some bad rubber cushions to me. I've had some bad luck with rubber bushings, but I've also had some that seem fine. I suspect that some of the rubber we get was not made to the same standards as what's in the original GM bushings, so it's a crap shoot.
I went through two sets of rear strut rods in three years. The thin rubber insulator just disintegrated. I ended up going with a heim joint set-up instead. I've used poly with great results, and I get mine from Energy Suspension.
There are many opinions on the best use of poly, but I agree with those who say that poly is best for areas with no movement, like motor mounts, or simple movement, like control arms (mostly rotational). For more complicated areas like strut rods and trailing arms (rotational and torsional), either rubber or mechanical work better because poly isn't very soft or flexible.
Got out to the garage yesterday to search where the rubber bits i found in the driveway came from.
Only two years old and they falling apart. Got them from a local parts house in town when i replaced the rear-end cover. I am going to say they are the Poly type of material. Considering i got 38 years out of the original rubber ones that's what i ordered from Willcox. Is this normal for the Poly bushings?
Any certain brand or manufacture of the poly stuff that does this? What if one did a complete car with it?
I will not install poly anything in my shop.. I hate the stuff and as you can see the life span is nothing of the original stuff.
Poly is good if you are racing the car around pylons but for every day use they will
A) Squeak,
B) Destroy faster and
C) Take away give that was designed to be in the component parts.
Why do I carry them... because when we pulled it down off the site customers would still request it... My guys try to dissuade customers from buying it but they still want and purchase it.
I will not install poly anything in my shop.. I hate the stuff and as you can see the life span is nothing of the original stuff.
Poly is good if you are racing the car around pylons but for every day use they will
A) Squeak,
B) Destroy faster and
C) Take away give that was designed to be in the component parts.
Why do I carry them... because when we pulled it down off the site customers would still request it... My guys try to dissuade customers from buying it but they still want and purchase it.
Is your cotter pin completely below the nut rather than being inserted through the castellation slots? Looks like it's tightened up about 1/4" too much. That may have played a part in the early deterioration of the bushing.
Is your cotter pin completely below the nut rather than being inserted through the castellation slots? Looks like it's tightened up about 1/4" too much. That may have played a part in the early deterioration of the bushing.
I will not install poly anything in my shop.. I hate the stuff and as you can see the life span is nothing of the original stuff.
Poly is good if you are racing the car around pylons but for every day use they will
A) Squeak,
B) Destroy faster and
C) Take away give that was designed to be in the component parts.
Why do I carry them... because when we pulled it down off the site customers would still request it... My guys try to dissuade customers from buying it but they still want and purchase it.
I totally agree. we gave up using Poly back in the '80's....can't believe people still use that stuff on their daily drivers. There are better materials out there to replace stock items, like fiberglass springs, SS calipers, improved gasket materials, but there are just as many on the other side of the coin.
Is your cotter pin completely below the nut rather than being inserted through the castellation slots? Looks like it's tightened up about 1/4" too much. That may have played a part in the early deterioration of the bushing.
Good observation. I'm not sure that would or should play a part in the deterioration of those bushings though. The bolt has lots of threads on it so if you continue to tighten it should just compress the spring upward. Same as is happening in use.
Good observation. I'm not sure that would or should play a part in the deterioration of those bushings though. The bolt has lots of threads on it so if you continue to tighten it should just compress the spring upward. Same as is happening in use.
You are correct. I was thinking about the diff snubber when I wrote that. I have used poly bushings in the past on different applications and have had no issue. My 68 has poly front control arm bushings, both sway bar bushings, motor and transmission mounts. There is no evidence of deterioration at all. Maybe you just got some bad ones. I have only used the Energy Suspension products. Good luck.