When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Am considering converting my 1980 over to R134A as the R12 has been lost due to a leak. Was talking to an AC service tech and he said the stock condenser would be adequate as long as an electric fan is added in front.
The car is an L82 with the stock electric fan behind the radiator. Wondering if air flow across the condenser would be improved by having this fan run whenever the A/C runs? If so what would be the best way to achieve this?
I switched my 81 to R134a, used it one year, and switched it back to R12.
They are systems designed around the refrigerant, and the 134 just didn't cut it in these older systems.
It was just my observation, and talking with techs.
Your results may vary.
My '34 SBC truck had a 2100 CFM electric puller fan which kept the engine at 195*F in city traffic on 98*F summer days.
When I installed Vintage A/C the engine ran 220* in city traffic/TOO HOT for my liking. (The condenser slows down airflow through the radiator considerably, plus it gets hotter than the engine coolant, causing the need for more airflow).
I installed a 2100CFM PUSHER fan and connected the relay to the A/C compressor clutch wiring.....any time the compressor engaged, the Pusher fan turned on (I could have connected the relay to th days A/C fan speed switc but there is no need for the 2nd fan to operate full time at highway speed///you could also wire the 2nd fan to operate off a second 195* coolant temperature switch-----when the 2nd coolant switch reaches 195* the Pusher fan will turn on, cooling the condenser as well as the radiator).
Now, the airflow into the engine bay is strong again after adding the 2nd fan.
This cured the city traffic overheating problem
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 19, 2015 at 10:14 PM.
I switched my 81 to R134a, used it one year, and switched it back to R12.
They are systems designed around the refrigerant, and the 134 just didn't cut it in these older systems.
It was just my observation, and talking with techs.
Your results may vary.
My '71 with its stock A-6 compressor and R-134 gets so darned cold I have to cut the fan speed down or add heat. Center vent temperature around 50 degrees and it blows a LOT harder with the longer C4 blower wheel.
My '71 with its stock A-6 compressor and R-134 gets so darned cold I have to cut the fan speed down or add heat. Center vent temperature around 50 degrees and it blows a LOT harder with the longer C4 blower wheel.
It's the same with my Vintage Air set-up/thermostat on medium/blower on Low in my truck.
I thought the firewall fan on my '68 project was just tired....but it seems like all of them are underpowered.
Am considering converting my 1980 over to R134A as the R12 has been lost due to a leak. Was talking to an AC service tech and he said the stock condenser would be adequate as long as an electric fan is added in front.
The car is an L82 with the stock electric fan behind the radiator. Wondering if air flow across the condenser would be improved by having this fan run whenever the A/C runs? If so what would be the best way to achieve this?
I found the main problem with all the C3 condensers is the huge gaps between the condenser and the radiator. Seal those gaps with wood or weatherstripping or foam and the A/C will cool a LOT better in stop-and-go city traffic. The A/C in my '71 was worthless in city traffic until I plugged those leaks and now its fantastic.
Am considering converting my 1980 over to R134A as the R12 has been lost due to a leak. Was talking to an AC service tech and he said the stock condenser would be adequate as long as an electric fan is added in front.
The car is an L82 with the stock electric fan behind the radiator. Wondering if air flow across the condenser would be improved by having this fan run whenever the A/C runs? If so what would be the best way to achieve this?
When your ac is selected on you have an idle solenoid that is activated to hold the throttle open a little more to compensate for the load on the engine.
This solenoid is powered by 12 volts dc. Use that 12 volts to close a relay that will carry the load to power the fan. This way each time you select the ac on the fan will run.
When your ac is selected on you have an idle solenoid that is activated to hold the throttle open a little more to compensate for the load on the engine.
This solenoid is powered by 12 volts dc. Use that 12 volts to close a relay that will carry the load to power the fan. This way each time you select the ac on the fan will run.
Am not an electrical expert, but would using the ac solenoid to power
the relay as suggested and running one side of the switch portion of
the relay to ground and the other, splicing into the temperature sensor
wire for the fan work? I thought that the fan is activated when the
temperature sensor grounds to the block so splicing into this wire
should turn on the fan when the relay is triggered by the ac solenoid.
The car is an L82 with the stock electric fan behind the radiator. Wondering if air flow across the condenser would be improved by having this fan run whenever the A/C runs?
I was wondering about this myself the other day, but I was wondering if an extra fan on the "other side" would help on extra hot days for keeping the car from overheating. But it could also serve to help the condensor. Convert to R134A and do a "before" and "after" test (before and after the fan is installed) to see how much the extra fan's ability to improve the AC temps. I'd almost pay to see those results. I don't have any real money but would you take monopoly money?
Another note: I got my AC down to 60 deg temp (with R134A), in 100 deg ambient temp, by just changing the orific tube. I would describe this as "adequate" although it would be nice if it were cooler.
Another note: I got my AC down to 60 deg temp (with R134A), in 100 deg ambient temp, by just changing the orific tube. I would describe this as "adequate" although it would be nice if it were cooler.
Sounds like me. I switched back to R-12 after a flush, and got 45*.
Next time I am ditching that POS compressor, and using a Sanden.
I know this is an old post but I will give it a shot. I recently acquired a 1980 L-82 corvette and the stock AC did not work. I paid to have the conversion kit from Ecklers installed and it ran for a day and then started blowing warm. I took it back to shop and they said the AC electric condenser fan went bad. Cant locate that fan anywhere! Anybody know where I can get this fan. I live in Memphis area and need the AC! The part number on the fan is Delco 22016589 12 9. Thank you for any help you can offer!!!
I know this is an old post but I will give it a shot. I recently acquired a 1980 L-82 corvette and the stock AC did not work. I paid to have the conversion kit from Ecklers installed and it ran for a day and then started blowing warm. I took it back to shop and they said the AC electric condenser fan went bad. Cant locate that fan anywhere! Anybody know where I can get this fan. I live in Memphis area and need the AC! The part number on the fan is Delco 22016589 12 9. Thank you for any help you can offer!!!
suggest starting a NEW thread.. that fan is AUX fan NOT an AC fan.. fix the leaking AC system.. and start over.. now that 134 is in it.. find leak flush and start over..
suggest starting a NEW thread.. that fan is AUX fan NOT an AC fan.. fix the leaking AC system.. and start over.. now that 134 is in it.. find leak flush and start over..
i just had it converted. The shop said the fan is not working so the condenser is getting too hot for it to cool properly. Said I needed a new electric A/C condenser fan.
i just had it converted. The shop said the fan is not working so the condenser is getting too hot for it to cool properly. Said I needed a new electric A/C condenser fan.
he is incorrect…fan is helpful not required..start a new thread with copius pictures..your mechanical fan pulls enough air…
When you fixed the AC system on R134a, did you remove the compressor to drain and put in R134a oil, believe is PAG oil. If so how much did you put in? Did you change the VIR to a VIR eliminator? Any other info you may have would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jim dbc340parks@aol.com
I paid a shop in Spokane to do it before we drive it to Memphis. I am not sure what they did. It worked for a day and when it quit I took it back in. They charged me another 120 dollars to tell me that the ac electric condensing fan had gone bad and couldn’t get the parts. Drive it back with no ac