Rearend side bearing preload
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 493
From: Salmon Arm, BC
Rearend side bearing preload
Redoing my rearend now, and added .005" shims to each side to preload bearings.
Then I decided to pull out the carrier due to to much end play on the stubb axles, and I couldn't budge the carrier out by hand or by using a prybar. I ended up using a small chain through the pinion shaft hole, and used my engine hoist to remove it. It lifted one end of my steel workbench (1/4" plate) that the rearend was attached to and then i used a dead blow hammer on the case to get it free.
I suspect that the preload was too much.....my question is, what should it take to remove the carrier from the case???
Then I decided to pull out the carrier due to to much end play on the stubb axles, and I couldn't budge the carrier out by hand or by using a prybar. I ended up using a small chain through the pinion shaft hole, and used my engine hoist to remove it. It lifted one end of my steel workbench (1/4" plate) that the rearend was attached to and then i used a dead blow hammer on the case to get it free.
I suspect that the preload was too much.....my question is, what should it take to remove the carrier from the case???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Redoing my rearend now, and added .005" shims to each side to preload bearings.
Then I decided to pull out the carrier due to to much end play on the stubb axles, and I couldn't budge the carrier out by hand or by using a prybar. I ended up using a small chain through the pinion shaft hole, and used my engine hoist to remove it. It lifted one end of my steel workbench (1/4" plate) that the rearend was attached to and then i used a dead blow hammer on the case to get it free.
I suspect that the preload was too much.....my question is, what should it take to remove the carrier from the case???
Then I decided to pull out the carrier due to to much end play on the stubb axles, and I couldn't budge the carrier out by hand or by using a prybar. I ended up using a small chain through the pinion shaft hole, and used my engine hoist to remove it. It lifted one end of my steel workbench (1/4" plate) that the rearend was attached to and then i used a dead blow hammer on the case to get it free.
I suspect that the preload was too much.....my question is, what should it take to remove the carrier from the case???
Only .005" total is needed; not .005" on each side. You have way too much pre-load on the side bearings.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 493
From: Salmon Arm, BC
Thats interesting.....I had read an arcticle that GTR1999 had written, and he was very clear about adding a .005" shim to each side.
I guess it depends on what the builder considers zero play....mine was very tight to install, but I could do it without the use of any tools. I could remove it by hand also, although it was a fairly good tug to get it to come out.
You would think the shim kits would come with .0025" shims for that purpose.
It really felt way too tight though with the .005" shim on both sides.
Totally confused now.....
I guess it depends on what the builder considers zero play....mine was very tight to install, but I could do it without the use of any tools. I could remove it by hand also, although it was a fairly good tug to get it to come out.
You would think the shim kits would come with .0025" shims for that purpose.
It really felt way too tight though with the .005" shim on both sides.
Totally confused now.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Thats interesting.....I had read an arcticle that GTR1999 had written, and he was very clear about adding a .005" shim to each side.
I guess it depends on what the builder considers zero play....mine was very tight to install, but I could do it without the use of any tools. I could remove it by hand also, although it was a fairly good tug to get it to come out.
You would think the shim kits would come with .0025" shims for that purpose.
It really felt way too tight though with the .005" shim on both sides.
Totally confused now.....
I guess it depends on what the builder considers zero play....mine was very tight to install, but I could do it without the use of any tools. I could remove it by hand also, although it was a fairly good tug to get it to come out.
You would think the shim kits would come with .0025" shims for that purpose.
It really felt way too tight though with the .005" shim on both sides.
Totally confused now.....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
That being said, Gary does about 50 of the C-3 cast iron units a year, and Mike does the aluminum ones. He also does about 1-2 a week.
Both of these guys only do Vettes, and people world wide send them units to rebuild.
If you choose to argue set ups with these two, then all I can say is good luck with that. They just don't rebuild them, they blueprint them for more HP, and know which parts are good, and what is crap.
It would be like arguing with Lars about quadrajets. No one alive knows more about them, period.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 493
From: Salmon Arm, BC
OK...so I figured that my zero preload setup was probably too tight. Then adding .005 to each side made it far too tight.
So I shifted the shims around and reduced the preload I had in there, but I still had to tap in the shim pac with a small hammer and brass punch, so I know they have good preload.
Im going to try that and see how it works.....
Thanks for the replys guys
So I shifted the shims around and reduced the preload I had in there, but I still had to tap in the shim pac with a small hammer and brass punch, so I know they have good preload.
Im going to try that and see how it works.....
Thanks for the replys guys
