When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Driving a convertible versus a t-top- I've noticed a cowl shake- mostly noticeable when hitting bumps at low speeds-.
The T-top cars not so much- and even had a couple of C2's verts that didn't seem as bad.
I was looking at some stuff Speedway Motors has and found this tie rod/drag Link Kit with 5/8 Heim Rod Ends for a little over $50.
Now here's what I have cooked up for the birdcage-mounted it to the birdcage plus will also put the factory support braces in as well- they have to be modified to fit w/ the Vintage Air.
Doing a complete custom interior-won't work w/ the stock dash.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
FWIW, the factory convertible birdcage bracing system triangulates the cowl from multiple points to a central saddle mounted at the front of the trans tunnel.
Frankly, if flex was that big an issue there, there would be thread after thread about broken windshields.
My 2 cents.
"Cowl shake", as experienced by convertibles, is more a "fore and aft" thing, not a "side to side deal". Think about it, the roof, a structural member is removed, and now the cowl "shakes". While the roof does provide some side to side support, it's main support is fore and aft....
FWIW, the factory convertible birdcage bracing system triangulates the cowl from multiple points to a central saddle mounted at the front of the trans tunnel.
Hey Charlie-
I'm still going to use the factory stuff - modified to fit the Vintage Air-
Sort of like what fellow forum member "mysixtynine" did to his-
Its trinkets like these that make rich men richer and poor men poorer.
Good thing I sell more trinkets than I buy....
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I can't see the curved spreader bar at the front being that effective since the curve allows it to give. I wouldn't use it as a panhard bar either.
For the cowl, you'd be better off triangulating it to the transmission tunnel like the factory bracing.
Hey Peter-
My build-as everything else in life- is a compromise. Whether it be money vs time- or having a dry sump oil pump versus a straight speader bar.... It's a pretty substantial piece and will definitely better than no bar at all- not to mention the price was right.
And I am going to triangulate it almost like the factory...
I hear you on only fitting so much into the space and you have fit quite a bit so far. that bar is fairly heavy so it should help, especially if you put some triangulation on it. I still wouldn't use bent bars in a rear suspension.
If you could add bars off that link that go forward and down to the tunnel brace then I bet it'd help a lot more. Basically triangulate it down to the tunnel.