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jacking from front crossmember

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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 08:55 AM
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Default jacking from front crossmember

Is it safe to jack up my 77 from the front cross member? My frame is in fine shape with no issues. My front cross member is dented up so obviously it has been used to jack this car up for many years! I need to get the car 16" off the ground and on jackstands and the easiest way to do it for me is to jack it from the front cross member.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
Is it safe to jack up my 77 from the front cross member? My frame is in fine shape with no issues. My front cross member is dented up so obviously it has been used to jack this car up for many years! I need to get the car 16" off the ground and on jackstands and the easiest way to do it for me is to jack it from the front cross member.

Your front crossmember was never meant to support the whole front end and that's why its dented.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 09:30 AM
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Use a 2x6 that is long enough to span the crossmember front to back as a jack pad.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 09:31 AM
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People do it, but GM does not recommend it.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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I used to jack up my c3 from the front crossmember and at the differential.

Now I do it from the side near the trans crossmember. It is much easier and more stable. Jack up one side, place both stands under the frame, then do the other side. Check, double, and triple check the stability of the stands afterwards.

If your stands aren't tall enough, buy larger stands. I've done the wood block with stands thing and its not worth your life.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
Is it safe to jack up my 77 from the front cross member? My frame is in fine shape with no issues. My front cross member is dented up so obviously it has been used to jack this car up for many years! I need to get the car 16" off the ground and on jackstands and the easiest way to do it for me is to jack it from the front cross member.
Yes, I jack mine there all the time. Like jnb5101 says use a 2X6 to span it so you spread the weight out a bit and don't dent the metal in the middle further.
I prefer to jack it there on mine with the side pipes and all.
It also loads the front clip area similar to it being on the wheels.
On jack stands from the side it forces the front clip and front frame with the weight of the engine to hang. Over time I saw mine droop. Frame completely intact and no rust. So i stopped jacking there.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 11:08 AM
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I fixed mine by pulling the dent out and now use a 2x6 and a big dowel to spread the load.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Yes, I jack mine there all the time. Like jnb5101 says use a 2X6 to span it so you spread the weight out a bit and don't dent the metal in the middle further.
I prefer to jack it there on mine with the side pipes and all.
It also loads the front clip area similar to it being on the wheels.
On jack stands from the side it forces the front clip and front frame with the weight of the engine to hang. Over time I saw mine droop. Frame completely intact and no rust. So i stopped jacking there.

Mine is really dented. I have my car on jackstands now but I need to get it higher for the headers. Its only about 12" off of the ground in the front. I also have a jack under the front crossmember taking some of the weight off the nose. I have a 2 x 6 under the crossmember to spread the weight. Like I said earlier.. it would be a lot easier for me to jack up the front of the car from the crossmember and extend my jack stands up to around 16" so that I can install my side headers. It seems more dangerous to me to jack the car up 16" on one side and install jackstands and then jack up the other side. I am only jacking the front of the car up because that's the only part I am currently working on. I will jack up the rear once the front is done.

Last edited by jgcable; Sep 4, 2015 at 02:08 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:43 PM
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I jack mine from the side like "above the logic" but I do it in stages so that the car is never tilted very far to one side at any time. Takes a bit longer but far less risk of slipping. Now for most work I drive the car up on ramps at the front and then jack at the rear corners ahead of the rear wheels and use jack stands there. I find the nose of the car will droop slightly when on 4 jack stands even with a non-rusty frame so I usually put an extra support under the front for good measure.
ddawsons method sounds okay though.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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I do the same as Haggisbash....each side in stages and I support the nose with another set of jack stands. If I don't have remove the tires, I support the car with two sets of tire cribs that I made. I made an insert that gets me a little higher, if needed.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 02:51 AM
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I really like the tire cribs, I need to make some of those. Are you using glue and screws to secure it together?
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
I really like the tire cribs, I need to make some of those. Are you using glue and screws to secure it together?
I just used construction grade screws. They're rock solid....if one screw was enough, I used two. You just have to figure out how high you want to make them. I came up with the insert idea to get me a little more height, when needed. The insert nests securely on top of the lower crib.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by racerx1
I just used construction grade screws. They're rock solid....if one screw was enough, I used two. You just have to figure out how high you want to make them. I came up with the insert idea to get me a little more height, when needed. The insert nests securely on top of the lower crib.
Soooo. How long did you cut each 2x4?
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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Those are nicely built stands. I have only one comment, and that is to make them longer. My set has a bearing area about 18" long. It's easier to position the stands and not be concerned if they are perfectly centered under the wheel, and the car can roll slightly on the stand while the car is being raised. This helps prevent the stand from being pushed or tilted forward or rearward. It reduces the stress on the system.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
Those are nicely built stands. I have only one comment, and that is to make them longer. My set has a bearing area about 18" long. It's easier to position the stands and not be concerned if they are perfectly centered under the wheel, and the car can roll slightly on the stand while the car is being raised. This helps prevent the stand from being pushed or tilted forward or rearward. It reduces the stress on the system.
I think the 2x4's are 18" long. Yeah, I should've made them a little longer. Plus, if you make them longer, you won't have to go through the effort to bevel cut the top boards. Another advantage of making them longer would be a better fit with larger OD tires. I never tried to use them on my Suburban, but I'm thinking that they won't work well.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 08:44 PM
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I've used the crossmember with a board for many C2's and C3's. I haven't seen any damage yet, but if I used the side frame, I may possibly see sidepipe cover damage. It's faster and easier when you need just the front up.
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