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As of now my steering column is still in pieces but.... Thanks to Jim Shea and his papers I think everything will be fine. I found the rack(the part that broke) availble from Ecklers and the canceling cam retainer(the part that came apart in twenty little pieces of crumdby plastic) at Zip. Everything else looks fine, so Hopefully the parts will be here today and I can put it all together Saturday. Thanks to all tha answered my plea. :yesnod:
The part that Silvervetteman is refering to is a urethane plastic piece that slips over the c-clip that retains the upper steering shaft on all T&T steering columns from 1969 through 1982. It is available from several suppliers. However, it is called several different names by different suppliers.
After 30 years this part has become extremely brittle and usually is already cracked when you remove your steering wheel hub from the column. This part is not only a retainer, it also isolates the steering column telescoping spring from contacting the lock plate. What you will find is that after you button your steering column back up and connect your battery; the horn will blow continuously if this part is omitted.
If you haven't ordered this part in advance, you may find yourself "Bubbaizing" your steering column lock plate by covering it with duct tape and then cutting out little patches from the tape for the three horn contacts to stick through.
BTW, the part is also truly a retainer. The c-clip is an extremely critical part of the steering column shaft. If it is omitted or if it were to become detached, you would be able to lift the entire steering wheel and upper steering shaft right off the column at any time. Not a pleasant thought as you are driving down the road.
OK!!!! I got my retainer from Zip and it is the correct one, It even has the same part number.. But... the rack from Ecklers came with a rod and the rack is different. It will require using the new rod which now makes me have to remove the ignition switch and a few othe parts to do the job. Is the any easier way to do that? Right now the column is still in the car and the wires are still together. I really don't want to tear it down any further if I do not have to. I do have a new ignition switch laying around that I could use if I have to get that far into it. 2 :confused:
I am afraid that you will have to drop the column so you can access the ignition switch. I am not familiar with the differences between the 1969 rack and the one you received from Eckler's. I could try and check on Monday with one of the current engineers at Saginaw but a lot of times parts will be updated and service back.
When you get the old rack and rod out of the column, you should compare the new rack and rod to the old one. The new rack and rod should start and finish at the same points as the old.
I am not sure as to your question on matching the rack to the sector. The large tooth on the sector has to match the corresponding end tooth on the rack.
Good news... It's fixed and everything works. I got the new parts and fortunately all of my parts were like 70-up.(my car is an Oct 69) The replacement rack was a little different and came with new rod but I didn't want to change the rod because I would have had to pull the ignition switch. The new rod had a larger pin on the rack end to fit the new rack. I made a sleeve to fit over the old pin so it would work without a lot of slop. Thanks to jim shea his papers/ pictures was able to do the job. I made a few mistakes (I like to call it a learning curve) and had to backtrack a couple of times. These columns can be a real challenge if you have to completely dis-assemble it. I removed the seat for more working room. Anyway now I can relax and get back to the forum.