Just picked up a T56 to swap into my '79
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just picked up a T56 to swap into my '79
My 4-speed is making death noises so I hit the market. T56 units are going for $1800-$2500 on eBay, but I found this one locally and ended up paying $1k for it.
The seller claims its from a 1997 f-body. I'm having trouble identifying it, I guess there's supposed to be a tag or label that are both missing. Here are the photos I took last night. I'll take better photos of the bellhousing and everything else.
It has a hydraulic throwout bearing. I think that might be unique to a '97. The seller made it a point to say that it is NOT for an LS engine because I guess the hydraulic throwout bearing is unique to the '97 LT car. Maybe it came out of a SS LT4 car? No idea.
Here are the photos:
My '79 has what I think is a factory Super T10 4-speed. It has a really good clutch it seems. It has the factory mechanical linkage setup.
I've done some reading. Not sure if I need a custom bellhousing or if I can use all this stuff. I wish it were as easy as unbolting my 4-speed from my existing bellhousing and bolting this one up. Maybe someone can chime in on why that's not the case.
I have no problems with cutting the trans tunnel for the shifter. I've been thinking of making a custom center console and center gauge panel since mine are in bad shape.
I don't know if I'll customize the crossmember on my own or see if I can buy an aftermarket one. MIKE80's crossmember looks nice.
I have a GPS speedometer, no need to even hook that up to the trans.
I have a good local driveline shop that I think can handle making a driveshaft for me, or modifying mine. I'll probably have them change my 3.36 gear to a 4.11 or higher to make the most out of all 6 gears with my 28" high tires.
I'm undecided on going with hydraulic or mechanical clutch on this one. I'm after what's easiest and cheapest, probably just like everyone else. I'm overextended on budget, I was not prepared for this expense. The car still drives with the 4-speed, it just sounds really, really terrible. This means I'm not in a rush to start, but the sooner its done, the better.
By the way, another guy in town here in Las Vegas has a T56 for sale that he'll sell to me for $900. I'm thinking of picking it up just to resell it on ebay for more!
The seller claims its from a 1997 f-body. I'm having trouble identifying it, I guess there's supposed to be a tag or label that are both missing. Here are the photos I took last night. I'll take better photos of the bellhousing and everything else.
It has a hydraulic throwout bearing. I think that might be unique to a '97. The seller made it a point to say that it is NOT for an LS engine because I guess the hydraulic throwout bearing is unique to the '97 LT car. Maybe it came out of a SS LT4 car? No idea.
Here are the photos:
My '79 has what I think is a factory Super T10 4-speed. It has a really good clutch it seems. It has the factory mechanical linkage setup.
I've done some reading. Not sure if I need a custom bellhousing or if I can use all this stuff. I wish it were as easy as unbolting my 4-speed from my existing bellhousing and bolting this one up. Maybe someone can chime in on why that's not the case.
I have no problems with cutting the trans tunnel for the shifter. I've been thinking of making a custom center console and center gauge panel since mine are in bad shape.
I don't know if I'll customize the crossmember on my own or see if I can buy an aftermarket one. MIKE80's crossmember looks nice.
I have a GPS speedometer, no need to even hook that up to the trans.
I have a good local driveline shop that I think can handle making a driveshaft for me, or modifying mine. I'll probably have them change my 3.36 gear to a 4.11 or higher to make the most out of all 6 gears with my 28" high tires.
I'm undecided on going with hydraulic or mechanical clutch on this one. I'm after what's easiest and cheapest, probably just like everyone else. I'm overextended on budget, I was not prepared for this expense. The car still drives with the 4-speed, it just sounds really, really terrible. This means I'm not in a rush to start, but the sooner its done, the better.
By the way, another guy in town here in Las Vegas has a T56 for sale that he'll sell to me for $900. I'm thinking of picking it up just to resell it on ebay for more!
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; 10-09-2015 at 11:18 AM. Reason: Added more photos
#2
Drifting
Years ago I looked into this and was told it would require a specific flywheel for the 2 pc rear main engine and that transmission. Also dont think I have heard of anyone using mechanical clutch system with these as they came factory with with hydraulics, I believe the difference was they slave cylinder being internal or external but it has been a long time ago.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The custom flywheel seems to be what I've found as well. I just came across this:
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
#4
Melting Slicks
The custom flywheel seems to be what I've found as well. I just came across this:
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
I honestly can't remember the one I used, but you need the 2 pc RMS bolt pattern, with the proper depth. I kept the pull type slave (external) because it came with the transmission.
Last edited by SH-60B; 10-08-2015 at 06:06 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I read most of this long painful thread over at nastyz28 that leads me to believe that all I need is that $400 flywheel and I'm good to go for the clutch and everything. I may have to have it balanced somehow.
Then I'm left with sorting out the clutch pedal hydraulics, driveshaft, and crossmember.
Then I'm left with sorting out the clutch pedal hydraulics, driveshaft, and crossmember.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I talked to Billy at Mcleod racing and he was very helpful. He explained that I will probably need the 153 tooth flywheel (Mcleod P/N 460300) with the LT1 bell housing, but it seems like there is a chance that I'll need the 168 tooth (Mcleod P/N 460130).
He asked me if my engine is externally balanced, and I'm not sure. I mentioned that I suppose I could tell when inspecting the old flywheel. He explained that the back side of the harmonic dampener would have a balance weight welded to it, or mallory slugs pressed into it, if the engine is externally balanced. It sounds like I would need to determine that before ordering, since they can include the needed weight for the new flywheel.
He asked me where I'm located. When I told him Las Vegas, he referred me over to Garth at Leading Edge Performance, 702-227-6579 for help if needed. I'm going to do a bit more research and give Garth a call to see what he says.
Both of the McLeod flywheels are listed at $289 on summit right now. $110 less than the SPEC branded unit.
It sounds like I'll need to figure out what I'm doing for a starter at some point too, or I'll have to push start it all the time!
He asked me if my engine is externally balanced, and I'm not sure. I mentioned that I suppose I could tell when inspecting the old flywheel. He explained that the back side of the harmonic dampener would have a balance weight welded to it, or mallory slugs pressed into it, if the engine is externally balanced. It sounds like I would need to determine that before ordering, since they can include the needed weight for the new flywheel.
He asked me where I'm located. When I told him Las Vegas, he referred me over to Garth at Leading Edge Performance, 702-227-6579 for help if needed. I'm going to do a bit more research and give Garth a call to see what he says.
Both of the McLeod flywheels are listed at $289 on summit right now. $110 less than the SPEC branded unit.
It sounds like I'll need to figure out what I'm doing for a starter at some point too, or I'll have to push start it all the time!
#7
Here are my install notes from a T56 Magnum install in my 78 corvette.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
Some items will be similar. The main thing you will discover is the drive line angles are not the best due to the length of the T56. The transmission needs to be lifted as high as you can to help.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
Some items will be similar. The main thing you will discover is the drive line angles are not the best due to the length of the T56. The transmission needs to be lifted as high as you can to help.
#8
Drifting
The custom flywheel seems to be what I've found as well. I just came across this:
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
http://www.specclutch.com/conversion_combos/view/2
SPEC steel flywheel Part # SC66S for 2-piece rear main to LT1 T56: $399.00! Yikes. I wonder if that is truly a custom flywheel or if it was made stock for some other vehicle.
I wonder if I need to start worrying about my engine being balanced with my existing flywheel.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If that slave is aftermarket, this whole transmission makes more sense. I can't find anything online about an LT1 T56 with a hydraulic throwout.
Makes me wonder if its an LS1 T56. I meant to measure the output shaft length last night but forgot.
What is the benefit of switching to an aftermarket slave/throwout like that? Easier pedal for a stiffer clutch spring perhaps?
Makes me wonder if its an LS1 T56. I meant to measure the output shaft length last night but forgot.
What is the benefit of switching to an aftermarket slave/throwout like that? Easier pedal for a stiffer clutch spring perhaps?
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; 10-09-2015 at 11:33 AM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I emailed David from SPEC back and forth a bit:
David:
Me:
David:
David:
I can provide the clutch and flywheel, and you can use the bearing that came in your kit. Is your engine an original ’79 350 ? OE was a 168 tooth but you’ll go down to a 153 tooth for the T56. How much power and where do you drive the car ?
It's a 4-bolt small block Chevy putting out around 320hp, will be beefed up to around 400. I autocross it and occasionally drive it to work. I expect to be able to take it on road trips once I have an overdrive. I plan to swap the rear gear from 3.36 to 4.11.
I like stage 2, pn SC192, and SC45A aluminum flywheel. The st2 is a great autoX and daily unit due to its manageability. With the gearing and weight of that car, it will drive very nicely and maximize rate of rev with noticeable hp gains. The lightweight parts on a recent Vette dyno we conducted netted 8rwhp and 14 rwtq on a stock car.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Roman from centerforce wrote back:
Now I'm wondering if this T56 is for an LS1. I think when I get home I can determine it for sure by measuring the length of the input shaft. From what I've read, if its LS1 T56, I can bolt it onto my existing bellhousing/clutch/etc. That sounds too good to be true.
Steve
If the transmission came out of a 97 Camaro, then you need to run the clutch parts for a 97 Camaro. A special flywheel is needed to run a 2 piece rear motor in front of this transmission. The pressure plate in the picture is a push type, the 97 Camaro uses a pull type clutch. What I need to know is what motor are you using and how much torque? We do not offer a conversion from pull to push.
Roman
If the transmission came out of a 97 Camaro, then you need to run the clutch parts for a 97 Camaro. A special flywheel is needed to run a 2 piece rear motor in front of this transmission. The pressure plate in the picture is a push type, the 97 Camaro uses a pull type clutch. What I need to know is what motor are you using and how much torque? We do not offer a conversion from pull to push.
Roman
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Clinton Township MI
Posts: 4,750
Received 119 Likes
on
98 Posts
Cruise-In III Veteran
AboveTheLogic & Others,
You might find this website helpful in identifying World Class (WC) T5 transmissions.
You would want one out of a V8 car.
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Bo...T5-ID-Tags.htm
Good luck!
Jim
In God We Trust!
You might find this website helpful in identifying World Class (WC) T5 transmissions.
You would want one out of a V8 car.
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Bo...T5-ID-Tags.htm
Good luck!
Jim
In God We Trust!
Last edited by 6T5RUSH; 10-09-2015 at 02:04 PM. Reason: corrected T trans label
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hmm, I see tag numbers listed for the T5 transmissions on that site. The trans that I have doesn't have any tags. It looks like there might have been a plate at the top but its gone.
I put it in 6th gear and turned the input shaft and counted that the output shaft spins at double the speed, so it has the 0.50 overdrive. According to this site:
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/manual_trans.htm
The 0.50 overdrive was in the T56s from '94-'02 on both the LT1 and LS1 equipped cars.... so that doesn't narrow anything down. At least it isn't the weaker '93 model.
The seller thought it was from a '97 and also thought that it had the 0.62 overdrive, which he was wrong about.
I put it in 6th gear and turned the input shaft and counted that the output shaft spins at double the speed, so it has the 0.50 overdrive. According to this site:
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/manual_trans.htm
The 0.50 overdrive was in the T56s from '94-'02 on both the LT1 and LS1 equipped cars.... so that doesn't narrow anything down. At least it isn't the weaker '93 model.
The seller thought it was from a '97 and also thought that it had the 0.62 overdrive, which he was wrong about.
#16
Safety Car
The LT1 T56 uses a pull style clutch just like the ZF6 in the C4.
I always swap them to a push style clutch using a hydraulic throwout bearing.
If you use the FACTORY LT1 pull style clutch you need a conversion flywheel as the flywheel distance/depth is different.
If you use a PUSH STYLE clutch you can use any 153 tooth flywheel for a 2pc RMS.
If your block however is not tapped for both starters, that will be your next hurdle.
You already have a push style clutch, and hydraulic throwout bearing. so all you need is the correct flywheel for your engine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-153-Tooth-Internal-Balance-Chevy-V8-Clutch-Flywheel-P-N-FW-147-/141783126148?hash=item2102eed084&vxp=mtr
-- Joe
I always swap them to a push style clutch using a hydraulic throwout bearing.
If you use the FACTORY LT1 pull style clutch you need a conversion flywheel as the flywheel distance/depth is different.
If you use a PUSH STYLE clutch you can use any 153 tooth flywheel for a 2pc RMS.
If your block however is not tapped for both starters, that will be your next hurdle.
You already have a push style clutch, and hydraulic throwout bearing. so all you need is the correct flywheel for your engine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-153-Tooth-Internal-Balance-Chevy-V8-Clutch-Flywheel-P-N-FW-147-/141783126148?hash=item2102eed084&vxp=mtr
-- Joe
The following users liked this post:
AboveTheLogic (01-28-2017)
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
$187 for a flywheel, that's not bad.
I'm struggling with the decision to buy the custom flywheel and convert to hydraulic, or change the front plate and input shaft to the LS style and use my existing bellhousing/clutch/mechanical linkages. My existing clutch is in really good shape and I think it was upgraded. Again, it seems too good to be true that an LS T56 would bolt up to my super t10's bellhousing.
I think the cost will be about the same either way, but the time and headache of swapping over to hydraulic is a factor.
I need to do more research on the hydraulic conversion. What I've read so far doesn't look fun at all.
I'm struggling with the decision to buy the custom flywheel and convert to hydraulic, or change the front plate and input shaft to the LS style and use my existing bellhousing/clutch/mechanical linkages. My existing clutch is in really good shape and I think it was upgraded. Again, it seems too good to be true that an LS T56 would bolt up to my super t10's bellhousing.
I think the cost will be about the same either way, but the time and headache of swapping over to hydraulic is a factor.
I need to do more research on the hydraulic conversion. What I've read so far doesn't look fun at all.
#18
Burning Brakes
The bellhousing you have looks like an LT and not an LS. An LS does not have a bell to block hole on the passenger side top, but does have a hole in the center top. Your bellhousing looks like it has the opening on the side for the factory pull style slave. The new slave (internal push style) looks aftermarket - maybe Ram?
If you are OK with running a factory aluminum bellhousing, I would just use what you have.
Get a flywheel, and look for a part number on the push slave. Ask Ram what volume that slave part number needs from a clutch master cylinder. Then set up your pedal ratio/slave size to operate the clutch.
Check out this thread by MIKE80
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ig-s-list.html
If you are OK with running a factory aluminum bellhousing, I would just use what you have.
Get a flywheel, and look for a part number on the push slave. Ask Ram what volume that slave part number needs from a clutch master cylinder. Then set up your pedal ratio/slave size to operate the clutch.
Check out this thread by MIKE80
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ig-s-list.html
Last edited by 74modified; 10-10-2015 at 11:33 AM. Reason: add link
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Having another set of eyes look at it and say that it is indeed an LT style bellhousing is helpful.
I'm still trying to decide on which way to go. Changing it over to an LS style input shaft is still on the table. I like the idea of not having to make any changes to my clutch or starter.
I'm just not sure that I can convert it over to LS shaft/plate and just bolt it on to my existing bellhousing from the original 4-speed. It seems to be the case, but could it really be that easy?
I'm still trying to decide on which way to go. Changing it over to an LS style input shaft is still on the table. I like the idea of not having to make any changes to my clutch or starter.
I'm just not sure that I can convert it over to LS shaft/plate and just bolt it on to my existing bellhousing from the original 4-speed. It seems to be the case, but could it really be that easy?
#20
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Athens GA
Posts: 19,446
Received 351 Likes
on
304 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Hey ATL
Some misinformation being passed onto you here.
First of all, it is NOT a WC T5...it is a T56 so don't bother with that.
2nd, it does have the LT1 bellhousing which is the external hydraulic clutch throwout setup with a clutch fork setup. The slot opening on the side is where the original external slave bolted on. Now it is open and allows water and dirt inside. If you keep that setup as is I would at least close that up. Previous owner probably ran the hydraulic lines out that opening
However, the throwout bearing you show is the push type that mounts over the collar of the input shaft.
Take a real close look at that pin (3" rod) that is mounted next to the collar on the input shaft. It looks like someone modified the front of the transmission and bolted this pin in place. That pin is what steadies the hydraulic throwout bearing (TOB). See that? I have never seen that mod before.
As to whether this is a LS1 or LT1 trans....depends upon the input shaft length. But it could have been modified if it was an LT1.
Very often, guys take an LT1 which is usually cheaper and easier to find as they were used in Camaros. That is what I did. It required changing the input shaft to match the LS1 length and the front plate is changed that allows the hydraulic TOB to slide over the input shaft sleeve.
To use it with a 2pc RMS block you can adapt the existing bellhousing or go with an aftermarket bellhousing like I did. Quicktime makes a scattershield #6023 designed just for this modification. That way you can use a hydraulic TOB, and any flywheel/clutch setup that fits the original 2pc RMS engine.
All depends upon how much more you want to spend.
I figure while I had this out, I would modify and beef mine up to handle my projected power and usage.
Lots of guys here have done this.
Use the advanced search option and check out T56 conversions in the C3 Tech section.
Good luck.
Bman
Some misinformation being passed onto you here.
First of all, it is NOT a WC T5...it is a T56 so don't bother with that.
2nd, it does have the LT1 bellhousing which is the external hydraulic clutch throwout setup with a clutch fork setup. The slot opening on the side is where the original external slave bolted on. Now it is open and allows water and dirt inside. If you keep that setup as is I would at least close that up. Previous owner probably ran the hydraulic lines out that opening
However, the throwout bearing you show is the push type that mounts over the collar of the input shaft.
Take a real close look at that pin (3" rod) that is mounted next to the collar on the input shaft. It looks like someone modified the front of the transmission and bolted this pin in place. That pin is what steadies the hydraulic throwout bearing (TOB). See that? I have never seen that mod before.
As to whether this is a LS1 or LT1 trans....depends upon the input shaft length. But it could have been modified if it was an LT1.
Very often, guys take an LT1 which is usually cheaper and easier to find as they were used in Camaros. That is what I did. It required changing the input shaft to match the LS1 length and the front plate is changed that allows the hydraulic TOB to slide over the input shaft sleeve.
To use it with a 2pc RMS block you can adapt the existing bellhousing or go with an aftermarket bellhousing like I did. Quicktime makes a scattershield #6023 designed just for this modification. That way you can use a hydraulic TOB, and any flywheel/clutch setup that fits the original 2pc RMS engine.
All depends upon how much more you want to spend.
I figure while I had this out, I would modify and beef mine up to handle my projected power and usage.
Lots of guys here have done this.
Use the advanced search option and check out T56 conversions in the C3 Tech section.
Good luck.
Bman
The following users liked this post:
AboveTheLogic (01-28-2017)