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Harmonic Balancer replacement. Pictures old and new!
I know the outer ring on my balancer has slipped and I have a balancer removal and installation tool. Do I need to remove the radiator or can it be replaced with everything in situ?
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
I did mine from above without the rad. But I feel as long as you remove the mechanical fan and shroud, you should have enough room to to squeak by. Pre rig it by setting up the puller and the ratchet. Another thing, depending on the banacer you buy. When you go to put it on, throw it in the oven and heat it up, then pop it on while its still hot. It's going to make it a lot easier to put it back on.
When you go to put it on, throw it in the oven and heat it up, then pop it on while its still hot. It's going to make it a lot easier to put it back on.
Good advice. I heated mine to 200* IIRC. Also make sure the crank snout has a small chamfer on it and no burrs. I used a bit of sand paper to do this.
Then get it on quick. Before the balancer cools down and before it transfers it's heat to the crank snout, you'll need some oven mitts. Do it in the morning when the crank is nice and cold, that way it is at it's smallest diameter. A little lite lube doesn't hurt.
When I first picked up my 79, I replaced the balancer by removing the mechanical fan and pulleys. I left the radiator and shroud in and did it from the top - As I recall, it was tight but manageable.
Only managed a quick 45 mins today.
Removed the fan ( might need a new clutch ) and slackened off the alternator, air con and power steering pump.
Put her in gear and chocked the wheels to remove the two pulleys.
Am now ready to see if the puller fits and how easy it is to use. I think I have the proform 66514.
Stephanie is helping! lol.
Turns out my tool was a little different but watching the video was kinda easy on the eye.
So, here is the old and the new side by side. You can see my old one had slipped by around 90 degrees.
Having the correct tools made the removal and install a breeze but I just want to check the final install position of the balancer. It doesnt seem to want to go on any further and it really is trying to rotate the engine. Does this look as though its on all the way?
Old...
Yep. That looks about right.
Once you get the pulleys on you'll know for sure if the belts don't align properly.
Happy days! Will get it all buttoned up tomorrow all being well.
Then it's on to timing again and resetting the carb. Hopefully this will help with the poor running I have been experiencing.
One thing that can really help your down the road when setting valve lash or lifter preset is to mark your balancer with a line each 90* of rotation before you get the pulleys on.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Nov 11, 2015 at 03:47 PM.
I know the outer ring on my balancer has slipped and I have a balancer removal and installation tool. Do I need to remove the radiator or can it be replaced with everything in situ?
1981, A/C 4spd manual, air pump removed.
Also, would it be easier to attack from underneath or from above?
Thanks.
Replaced the balancer on my 81.
Heated the balancer and cooled the shaft with a can of keyboard cleaning spray.
Male sure you buy a name brand made in USA balancer install tool or rent one from the parts store. I had a Made in China tool snap off inside the end of the crank and really ruined my day.
One thing that can really help your down the road when setting valve lash or lifter preset is to mark your balancer with a line each 90* of rotation before you get the pulleys on.
I use white out it works good and is easy to see.
First one is your timing mark that is on there now and that is TDC for cylinders # 1 and #6.
Then 90 degrees later TDC for cylinders #8 and #5
Then another 90 * and TDC for cylinders # 4 and #7
Then last 90* and TDC for #3 and #2.
Mark the numbers right on the balancer below the line where you can see it below the tab when you are on that mark.
Now next time you need to set preload on your lifters you know which cylinders are at TDC for each 90* of rotation. You still need the one that is with both valves closed, not the one in overlap.
Once you establish TDC for #1 in the compression stroke though you have just established which cylinder with be there next based on the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Anywho I have found it useful, but I'm always fiddling with mine.
Not sure how I missed your post, would have been a great idea. All back together now.
Originally Posted by texasbaehr
Replaced the balancer on my 81.
Heated the balancer and cooled the shaft with a can of keyboard cleaning spray.
Male sure you buy a name brand made in USA balancer install tool or rent one from the parts store. I had a Made in China tool snap off inside the end of the crank and really ruined my day.
I didn't heat the balancer or cool the crank but installation went well. The tool I used was made by Alltrade, not sure where it's made. Not many places to hire tools from here in the UK.
Harmonic Balancer replacement. Pictures old and new!
