No start issue
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From: oregon
No start issue
Hey guys I could use a little help here. My '73 BB was parked for about 2 weeks after a drive. Lifters sounded a little noisy so I decided in my free time I would check the valve lash. Yesterday I had that free time and adjusted the valves. I had done It this summer also but decided to check them again. Well now car won't start. I have fuel and spark. After further inspection of the points I found one of the points base plate hold down screws stripped so replaced screw and set points at .016. Still no fire. Motor spins freely. One point however, I noticed the amp gauge does not move from center, but I don't know if it moved before. I have owned this vette for about a year just never checked for gauge operation. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Rodney
Rodney
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From: oregon
Melting Slicks
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From: Great Plains Iowa
There are two ways to adjust hydraulic lifters; running and not running.
To set them with the engine running you back the adjustment nuts off until you hear a CLACK CLACK CLACK then tighten the adjustment nuts down until the CLACKING stops then one full turn down from there.
To set them with the engine stopped you bar the engine over to TDC for cylinder #1, loosen the adjustment nut JUST until the push rod can be spun freely with your fingertips, then tighten it down one full turn. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #8 and adjust those two lifters. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #4 and adjust those two lifters and so on; the whole process taking two full turns of the crankshaft in 90 degree increments.
If you adjusted all 16 of your lifters at one time without barring the engine over 90 degrees for TDC of each cylinder all of your valves are being held slightly open and none of the cylinders would fire.
To set them with the engine running you back the adjustment nuts off until you hear a CLACK CLACK CLACK then tighten the adjustment nuts down until the CLACKING stops then one full turn down from there.
To set them with the engine stopped you bar the engine over to TDC for cylinder #1, loosen the adjustment nut JUST until the push rod can be spun freely with your fingertips, then tighten it down one full turn. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #8 and adjust those two lifters. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #4 and adjust those two lifters and so on; the whole process taking two full turns of the crankshaft in 90 degree increments.
If you adjusted all 16 of your lifters at one time without barring the engine over 90 degrees for TDC of each cylinder all of your valves are being held slightly open and none of the cylinders would fire.
Last edited by toobroketoretire; Nov 19, 2015 at 02:24 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York
What did you disconnect to get valve covers off to adjust valves ? Go back and double check your work.
Then check points to be sure you have them right. And make sure firing order is ok and cap is seated correctly
Then check points to be sure you have them right. And make sure firing order is ok and cap is seated correctly
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: oregon
OOPs, actually didn't adjust valves while running but did by FSM and the marked 90* way. Thanks.
I adjusted the valves both this method and method in the FSM. No fire. Thanks for the feed back.
There are two ways to adjust hydraulic lifters; running and not running.
To set them with the engine running you back the adjustment nuts off until you hear a CLACK CLACK CLACK then tighten the adjustment nuts down until the CLACKING stops then one full turn down from there.
To set them with the engine stopped you bar the engine over to TDC for cylinder #1, loosen the adjustment nut JUST until the push rod can be spun freely with your fingertips, then tighten it down one full turn. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #8 and adjust those two lifters. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #4 and adjust those two lifters and so on; the whole process taking two full turns of the crankshaft in 90 degree increments.
If you adjusted all 16 of your lifters at one time without barring the engine over 90 degrees for TDC of each cylinder all of your valves are being held slightly open and none of the cylinders would fire.
To set them with the engine running you back the adjustment nuts off until you hear a CLACK CLACK CLACK then tighten the adjustment nuts down until the CLACKING stops then one full turn down from there.
To set them with the engine stopped you bar the engine over to TDC for cylinder #1, loosen the adjustment nut JUST until the push rod can be spun freely with your fingertips, then tighten it down one full turn. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #8 and adjust those two lifters. Bar the engine over 90 degrees to TDC of cylinder #4 and adjust those two lifters and so on; the whole process taking two full turns of the crankshaft in 90 degree increments.
If you adjusted all 16 of your lifters at one time without barring the engine over 90 degrees for TDC of each cylinder all of your valves are being held slightly open and none of the cylinders would fire.
Last edited by USA-OSC; Nov 19, 2015 at 05:09 PM.
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From: oregon
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 74
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From: oregon
What would be the best way to get back to a base line to see if it then at least fires?
Thanks for everyone's help on this.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
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From: Great Plains Iowa
Assuming you actually got the lifter adjustment correct you likely have the distributor in 180 degrees off. As you have a compression tester screw it into the #1 hole then bump it over while watching the gauge. When you see the needle rising its approaching TDC of #1. Continue bumping it over about 1/3rd turn more until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the 0 on the timing tab. THAT is TDC of #1.
Now take your distributor cap off and the rotor SHOULD be pointing at the 11 o'clock position (#1). If its pointing at the 5 o'clock position you have it 180 degrees off (likely done when you removed the distributor to replace the stripped point's screw).
Get it positioned correctly and it'll fire off and you'll get a BIG poop eating grin on your face.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Meriden CT
Assuming you actually got the lifter adjustment correct you likely have the distributor in 180 degrees off. As you have a compression tester screw it into the #1 hole then bump it over while watching the gauge. When you see the needle rising its approaching TDC of #1. Continue bumping it over about 1/3rd turn more until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the 0 on the timing tab. THAT is TDC of #1.
Now take your distributor cap off and the rotor SHOULD be pointing at the 11 o'clock position (#1). If its pointing at the 5 o'clock position you have it 180 degrees off (likely done when you removed the distributor to replace the stripped point's screw).
Get it positioned correctly and it'll fire off and you'll get a BIG poop eating grin on your face.
Now take your distributor cap off and the rotor SHOULD be pointing at the 11 o'clock position (#1). If its pointing at the 5 o'clock position you have it 180 degrees off (likely done when you removed the distributor to replace the stripped point's screw).
Get it positioned correctly and it'll fire off and you'll get a BIG poop eating grin on your face.
USA-OAC, assuming you have a hydraulic cam use the EO/IC method. Here's an article that explains in depth: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...9C4bsflQVYuRSQ
If you motor has a mechanical cam the method is different, but you can still be assured you're on the base circle with EO/IC
Last edited by SH-60B; Nov 19, 2015 at 06:47 PM.
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From: oregon
Here's the update on todays troubleshooting. Ran a compression test. No compression. Started over readjusting valves using FSM method. Got on TDC of #1 cylinder on comp stroke. Loosened all valves associated with that sequence. Made sure they were super loose to almost to the end of threads. Adjusted to 0 lash and turned 3/4 turn more.
Turned motor over 1 complete revolution. Loosened all valves for that sequence to almost end of threads. Plenty loose. Adjusted valves as in 1st sequence.
Checked compression again and had 150lbs.
Tried to start motor but would not fire. It did however sound like a normal engine again rather that the whizzing sound it was making with valves to tight.
Tomorrows plan is to verify spark and that points are set to 16*. My plugs may also get replaced if needed.
Turned motor over 1 complete revolution. Loosened all valves for that sequence to almost end of threads. Plenty loose. Adjusted valves as in 1st sequence.
Checked compression again and had 150lbs.
Tried to start motor but would not fire. It did however sound like a normal engine again rather that the whizzing sound it was making with valves to tight.
Tomorrows plan is to verify spark and that points are set to 16*. My plugs may also get replaced if needed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Here's the update on todays troubleshooting. Ran a compression test. No compression. Started over readjusting valves using FSM method. Got on TDC of #1 cylinder on comp stroke. Loosened all valves associated with that sequence. Made sure they were super loose to almost to the end of threads. Adjusted to 0 lash and turned 3/4 turn more.
Turned motor over 1 complete revolution. Loosened all valves for that sequence to almost end of threads. Plenty loose. Adjusted valves as in 1st sequence.
Checked compression again and had 150lbs.
Tried to start motor but would not fire. It did however sound like a normal engine again rather that the whizzing sound it was making with valves to tight.
Tomorrows plan is to verify spark and that points are set to 16*. My plugs may also get replaced if needed.
Turned motor over 1 complete revolution. Loosened all valves for that sequence to almost end of threads. Plenty loose. Adjusted valves as in 1st sequence.
Checked compression again and had 150lbs.
Tried to start motor but would not fire. It did however sound like a normal engine again rather that the whizzing sound it was making with valves to tight.
Tomorrows plan is to verify spark and that points are set to 16*. My plugs may also get replaced if needed.
You're not understanding something. After you adjust the lifters of #1 you bump the engine over 90 degrees then adjust #8. Then another 90 degrees and adjust #4. Keep going on 90 degree increments until you have adjusted all 16 lifters.
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From: oregon
This is the way explained in the FSM and the method I used. I also used the method where you mark the balancer every 90* and follow firing order. I think I have a spark issue.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Great Plains Iowa
It ran perfectly until you decided to "fix it" and now it doesn't run. Logic would say you did something dreadfully wrong during your lifter adjustment.
Are you aware the cylinders on the left bank are 1 3 5 7 and the right bank are 2 4 6 8 ?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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back off each valve 1/4 turn
do you have a dwell meter to adjust the points to 30 degrees?
pull the coil wire out of the cap, hold it with insulated pliers and while having someone cranking the engine hold it near some metal ground to see if you have a spark.
do you have a dwell meter to adjust the points to 30 degrees?
pull the coil wire out of the cap, hold it with insulated pliers and while having someone cranking the engine hold it near some metal ground to see if you have a spark.
Drifting
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From: perth Aus w.a
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Did you check all 8 for your compression or only 1.Your compression should all be within 10% of each cylinder . I got 185 -200 on all cylinders when adjusted properly on my 427.This is how I did mine.
Exhaust valves
#6 fully compressed adjust #1
#5 fully compressed adjust #8
#7 fully compressed adjust #4
#2 fully compressed adjust #3
#1 fully compressed adjust #6
#8 fully compressed adjust #5
#4 fully compressed adjust #7
#3 fully compressed adjust #2
Inlet valves
#8 fully compressed adjust #5
#4 fully compressed adjust #7
#3 fully compressed adjust #2
#6 fully compressed adjust #1
#5 fully compressed adjust #8
#7 fully compressed adjust #4
#2 fully compressed adjust #3
#1 fully compressed adjust #6
That worked for me hope you find this helpful.
Exhaust valves
#6 fully compressed adjust #1
#5 fully compressed adjust #8
#7 fully compressed adjust #4
#2 fully compressed adjust #3
#1 fully compressed adjust #6
#8 fully compressed adjust #5
#4 fully compressed adjust #7
#3 fully compressed adjust #2
Inlet valves
#8 fully compressed adjust #5
#4 fully compressed adjust #7
#3 fully compressed adjust #2
#6 fully compressed adjust #1
#5 fully compressed adjust #8
#7 fully compressed adjust #4
#2 fully compressed adjust #3
#1 fully compressed adjust #6
That worked for me hope you find this helpful.
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From: oregon
Well here's todays update. Yesterday I readjusted the valves and after doing this 4 times I felt pretty confident in the results. Went to start motor, no go.
Today I checked for spark, no spark. Measured point gap and they looked ok at 16*. Checked out coil. Tested a few tenths under speck for primary side. Took it up to NAPA to have it replaced. Cool counter guy said don't waste your money cause coil is not the problem. Double check very carefully the points again. Back home I go to look at the points one more time. After checking point spring action and readjusting gap I stabbed the ignition with key one more time and BOOM! She came alive as if asking what the heck my problem has been the last few days!
Its been raining here in Oregon (nw) for the last 2 weeks so after setting dwell, timing and idle speed in the morning I'm taking her for a nice well deserved cruise.
Thanks for everyone's help with this. It has been real educational.
Today I checked for spark, no spark. Measured point gap and they looked ok at 16*. Checked out coil. Tested a few tenths under speck for primary side. Took it up to NAPA to have it replaced. Cool counter guy said don't waste your money cause coil is not the problem. Double check very carefully the points again. Back home I go to look at the points one more time. After checking point spring action and readjusting gap I stabbed the ignition with key one more time and BOOM! She came alive as if asking what the heck my problem has been the last few days!
Its been raining here in Oregon (nw) for the last 2 weeks so after setting dwell, timing and idle speed in the morning I'm taking her for a nice well deserved cruise.
Thanks for everyone's help with this. It has been real educational.
