If that is a 12" jeggs stall converter those are pretty low quality.
I found out from a torque converter builder that the way those stalls are reached is by bending the fins and not adjusting the stator. This almost entirely eliminates your torque multiplication, the really nice thing about a torque converter.
A better 10" torque converter will give better results.

 

I agree with REELAV8R. Make sure your getting as much out of that converter that you can. Check what it flashes at. It may be hurting you more than its helping you.

 

The cam specs match an old Wolverine grind from the 70's. It was used on Fords and Chevy's. With that large of head with that camshaft it is going to be lazy. A pump gas 383 combination of parts and a hyd roller will make 500HP/500#/ft of torque easily.

 

I disagree with most here. Nothing I can "see" on the build is mismatched. Something else is wrong. The engine should be making close to 500HP. How do you know it has 50degs. @ 2500RPM ? Did this show on the engine dyno, if so the timing is way too high. At WOT on the dyno it should not be at 50degs. that is way too high.

Disconnect the vacuum advance and rev it to 3000 RPM and shoot for 32-35 degs. total advance and let the rest sit where it is. On a chassis dyno you would only make about 300RWHP and you would need a matching stall converter to smoke the tires. I had a 355ci that made 300Rwhp and was a blast to drive and would spin the tires in second gear ( be it on crappy hard BFG's )

So the first thing I would do is disconnect the vacuum advance and time it for 34 degs at 2500-3000rpm. I would leave it disconnected and take it out for a spin and see what happens. 210 heads are not too big for properly sorted 383ci engine.

One thing missing, what is your compression ratio ?

 

Read post #1. He has the wrong parts, cam and heads, mostly cam but the 2.100 valve is a misfit. Other parts may also be wrong but these 2 are for sure.

Harry

 

The dog ate the dyno sheet, peak tq was at 3800rpm and hp was at 5500rpm and still going up. Told operator that was good. Just a little nervous. I think to keep the peace with you know who, I'll do the convertor 1st and see, maybe the cam next. The timing was done with a advance timing light. First with vac. plugged I think it was around 18 and then it hooked up and engine to 2500 rpm that's were I'm getting 50 total. I'll check all that before I do anything. This all so may help it is a jegs hei

 

You make that sound like there is no arguing the point. I happen to think there is no mismatch with parts. He still has over 400HP and I think there is something wrong elsewhere. I would like to know the advance at 2500RPM without the vacuum advance.

 

X2 Timing needs a fine tune to begin analysis.

 

do I want to keep larger intake runners? and drop intake valve size? Can I help by cam change and keep the heads I have?

 

driving the car you can't tell their is a stall in it. Would a lower duration and high lift cam help or hurt the heads I have?

 

If the heads are to large for a given CID and desired rpm range then yes a smaller cam is needed. You have enough cross section in cylinder head to make power to 7800 rpm. The head and valve size are to large. This is 100% FACT. Math does not lie.

To give you that seat of the pants acceleration the can needs to be shorter on duration.

 

you should not need that much exhaust duration split with an aftermarket head.


Put in a shorter duration high lift hydraulic roller with less exhaust duration split.

 

LOL.. Tire spin is Gods way of saving your expensive performance parts from BREAKING!

 

425hp @ 5500 RPM, given a modest 25HP gain at 6500RPM that is 450HP.

The question remains, what is the timing at 2500RPM with the vacuum can disconnected ? If you could answer that then that would help instead of blaming the heads or cam without all the information needed to properly diagnose engine performance (101).

 

All good points that need to be looked at. The torque converter for sure and the timing as well. The combo, may be mathematically wrong, but to start over again, would be the worse of two evils. Might as well wait for the next rebuild or just pull it out and put it together as a more viable option, up to the OP.

A lot of recent threads here concern the carb and how to get it right and that cannot be overlooked. How it's set up, jetting, accelerator pump, cam, opening of the secondaries, how big of a squirt it gets and on and on, make a huge difference in how it runs.

We'll spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a highly modified engine, but won't spend less than $200 on an reliable A/F meter, which in my opinion, is a must-have, because it will save you countless hours guessing or reading the plugs (like who wants to pull plugs on a hot engine?). Super easy to install, super easy to read and along with the torque converter and the timing, this should be the next step.

Even with the wrong combo, the OP will know what's going on, at least with the A/F mixture and then eliminate the other factors from there. Just my $.02. Glad I have mine, it's been very helpful.

 

the car is kinda put away for the winter, however if I can I will check the timing, I can go and get another dyno sheet printed off. I'm, pretty sure I was fat on the runs and I down sizes the jets and it runs better. I think a new convertor is were to start, I called TCI and they gave me their into he stated it should make a difference

 

do yourself a favor. save your money for the time being. If you do decide to purchase a converter look at ATI. They will build your converter for your application and per your engine specs. If it has the wrong stall speed generally they will change it for free of charge for what you need. At least thats the way its always worked for me and it does not cost extra for a custom converter....converters are not one size fits all and need to be custom for each application.

A bbc with a given ground cam and a sbc with the same grind will have two totally different stalls using the same 3500 stall converter.

while your parts may not be matched perfectly you cn tune to give you the optimum performance...unless you have money to burn by all means rip it apart and change the cam. comp makes a real nice billet core.

Here is a real world comparison I've got a 350 true 11:1 aluminium headed pump gas motor.431 hp@6000 and 445 ft/lbs@4000 I use a stock converter and it does not creep in gear at lights.yep even a small roller cam 218/224 @.050 RWHP is probably only 300 lol

 

TCi would not be my 3rd or 4th choice for a converter.

 

Performance Torque Converters (PTC) in Muscle Shoals, Alabama is very hard to beat when it comes to torque converters. Give Kenny Ford a call, he is very knowledgeable and easy to talk to.

 

READ above quote from the OP ...

Now

Can all of you who keep saying he needs a new cam or his heads are wrong please explain to me and others what problem he is having.