Another door lock problem
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,144
Likes: 806
From: Chapel Hill NC
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Another door lock problem
1982 CE 12k miles. Power door locks. Both locks operate with key and with the manual door lock button. The drivers door power switch doesn't work either side lock but the passenger door power button locks and unlocks the drivers door lock but not the passenger door lock. PO stated he installed a new drivers door power switch. I'm thinking actuator in passenger door but not sure about the drivers door switch. I thought switches either both had to work or neither worked.
Any direction will be appreciated before I remove the panels.
Any direction will be appreciated before I remove the panels.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
A study of the schematics shows a very simple problem that could, I believe, cause your symptoms:
Remove your passenger side kick panel (I think that's the proper name)--it's the trim piece on the outboard side of the foot well. Two screws--one at the rear and one at the back. Look for a connection between two three-conductor connectors each containing one orange (constant +12V), one tan (+12V or -12V to passenger actuator) and one grey (-12V or +12V to passenger actuator).
Obviously if you find a one loose connector, find the other end and connect. If together, disassemble, check for any sort of damage (like conductors somewhat pulled out, corrosion, etc.), take any necessary action and reassemble.
I am almost certain that if that connector is disconnected or not properly connected that the driver side actuator would work from the driver side switch only but the passenger side (both actuator and switch) would seem completely dead.
BTW, those tan and grey wires lead directly (well via another connector) to the driver side actuator. The passenger actuator is a slave to the driver side.
If you don't seem to find a problem I seriously suggest back probing the three-conductor passenger side connector when operating the driver switch to verify that you have power that far--if so then verify power at the passenger actuator connector. (To check put your testers probes at both the grey and tan wires. Those wires alternate between positive and negative to operate the actuator. With probes connected to the wires you should read approx +12V by operating the driver switch one way or the other--reverse the probes and you'll now get +12V by operating the switch the opposite way.
Remove your passenger side kick panel (I think that's the proper name)--it's the trim piece on the outboard side of the foot well. Two screws--one at the rear and one at the back. Look for a connection between two three-conductor connectors each containing one orange (constant +12V), one tan (+12V or -12V to passenger actuator) and one grey (-12V or +12V to passenger actuator).
Obviously if you find a one loose connector, find the other end and connect. If together, disassemble, check for any sort of damage (like conductors somewhat pulled out, corrosion, etc.), take any necessary action and reassemble.
I am almost certain that if that connector is disconnected or not properly connected that the driver side actuator would work from the driver side switch only but the passenger side (both actuator and switch) would seem completely dead.
BTW, those tan and grey wires lead directly (well via another connector) to the driver side actuator. The passenger actuator is a slave to the driver side.
If you don't seem to find a problem I seriously suggest back probing the three-conductor passenger side connector when operating the driver switch to verify that you have power that far--if so then verify power at the passenger actuator connector. (To check put your testers probes at both the grey and tan wires. Those wires alternate between positive and negative to operate the actuator. With probes connected to the wires you should read approx +12V by operating the driver switch one way or the other--reverse the probes and you'll now get +12V by operating the switch the opposite way.
