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Whats causing a 1 second rear brake squeak?

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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 11:14 PM
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Default Whats causing a 1 second rear brake squeak?

Whenever I apply my brakes, I get a 1 second 'squeak' from what sounds like the rear. No grinding, no grabbing, just 1 second of a squeak. Pads are fairly new, calipers are new, rotors are....?????. Im getting ready for my winter overhauls, and figure I should look into the rear brakes. Anybody have any suggestions where to start looking?
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd
Whenever I apply my brakes, I get a 1 second 'squeak' from what sounds like the rear. No grinding, no grabbing, just 1 second of a squeak. Pads are fairly new, calipers are new, rotors are....?????. Im getting ready for my winter overhauls, and figure I should look into the rear brakes. Anybody have any suggestions where to start looking?

My brakes have squealed off and on over the years and the cause was always a bit of air in the calipers and/or hard brake pads. I've been using Raybestos pads for about 10 years and they don't squeal like other brands I've used.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd
Whenever I apply my brakes, I get a 1 second 'squeak' from what sounds like the rear. No grinding, no grabbing, just 1 second of a squeak. Pads are fairly new, calipers are new, rotors are....?????. Im getting ready for my winter overhauls, and figure I should look into the rear brakes. Anybody have any suggestions where to start looking?
When I replaced all 4 calipers, lines and pads about 5 years ago, the standard pads always squeaked. This was on the original rotors in good condition. I tried various things, none worked. Finally went with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads all around. This quieted braking all down - no squeaking, until…

One day I got that annoying 1 second squeak when initially applying brakes. Wouldn't go away no matter what I tried. I ended up taking it in, and they simply 'reclocked' the rotors. This, from what I understand, adjusted rotor runout within tight specs and quieted it all down. Been quiet for 5 years now.

This assumes when put it all together, one brushed and cleaned off all parts of rust and residual brake dust. Cleaning things thoroughly before reassembly does wonders for most repairs.

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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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I would turn/replace the rotors and install new pads. If you replace the rotors, be sure to have the runout checked. Don't take it for granted that they're good, just because they're new.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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The soft lines might be internally swelling a little tiny bit, keeping a slight bit of extra pressure on the rotor for a few seconds as the pressure releases. This will potentially get worse where it is actually causing a grab.

Unless the soft lines are new, it's fast and easy to replace them and that's where I would start.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Riles
The soft lines might be internally swelling a little tiny bit, keeping a slight bit of extra pressure on the rotor for a few seconds as the pressure releases. This will potentially get worse where it is actually causing a grab.

Unless the soft lines are new, it's fast and easy to replace them and that's where I would start.
Theres NOTHING fast and easy about C3 brake work.......
Thanks for the advice, Ill make sure I take a look at the lines.
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