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Search for "Stainless Steel 18-8 Precision Shim Flat Washer, Inch, Made In US" on Amazon. I used their 1/2" shims (inside diameter). They start at 0.001" thickness, and go up. I got sets of 0.001", 0.002" and 0.003".
I have not driven my car yet though - it's very far from being complete. Hopefully those shims will work.
Shim stock (or cans) and make your own. The tapered wheel shims are nice but hard to come across if you don't have a decent source handy.
Make the shim fairly big so it supports the area, also make sure you don't just shim the low spot. Add some thinner ones on the other studs between the high and low to help keep everything flat (assuming the rotor is flat and just running out)
If Your Local Nut and Bolt store doesn't have a Shim Pack then ZORO Tools sells a Brass one for 27 Bucks US. It will probably last You for all Your Car projects for the rest of Your life.
Elsewhere on this sight I learned about the Rabestos Tapered Spacers and watched the Video on how to figure out which ones You need. I thought they were an interesting solution and a very good idea. Summit Racing carries them but ordering them on line prompted a phone call. Turns out they don't stock all 3 of them in our 4 3/4" 5 lug size. ( 00.3" 00.6" 00.9" ) . After watching the U-Tube Video it is very clear that if You have a 00.6 Run out then just throw in a 00.6 Spacer and all will be good. However it really doesn't work that way. Assuming Your measuring the run out near the outer diameter and the bolt circle is close to 1/2 that diameter then You would want to add a shim that is 1/2 or 00.3" to get the 00.6" at the outer edge. In reality 1/2 is a good place to start but trial and error is the only way to shim a solution. I have been doing this this week. If I had a shop that worked on GM vehicles and could stock all the Spacers all the time I could see doing it this way. But not by Mail order !
Using 14" C6 Rotors on my C3 I ended up with .012" on the LF and .032 on the RF !!! I Surface Ground the face of the Hubs on my Lathe and removed about 1/2 the run out still not good enough. Watching the Core Shift Flop around on a Lathe is interesting enough , and made me glad I was un aware of this when I ran the Nevada Sierra 100 ! This week I received my Van Steel Billet Hubs, and even with Cheap Power Stop Rotors they ran .006 and .002 out of the Box. One .003 shim and I was good to go. Van Steel even did some Custom Machining to fit my C6 Rotors at no extra charge.
Or as I said before, a lathe that turns them on the car!! Another lost art
If the shims cost $68 in Canada, I would go this route. Try indexing the rotors to find the lowest run out position. Remember that the rear's may have a cutout for the parking brake adjustment.
I think the Napa (made by and packaged as Raybestos) shims were about $16ea here in Calif. a couple of years ago. I thought that was a rip off, but then again, it is a speciality item and they did work well.
I have some stainless shim stock I bought at an oil field supply store on the south side in Edmonton a few years ago. I used them for rotor spacing as well. Yes they were kind of expensive -around $100.00 but I got a lot of them from .001" to .004".
PM me. I could give you some of my stock. I can't remember the name of the company but know where they are located.
If you make your own out of stuff like beer cans, sandwich the metal between two tightly clamped boards. Drill thru the boards and metal and the result will be a fairly neat hole for the stud. The boards keep the metal from twisting and tearing. Then just trim the metal into a round shape.