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OK, why do OEM intakes have oil splash shields attached to their bottoms?
The other poster answered it. but the spash shields was to keep from burning oil from the exhaust cross over and turning the bottom of your intake into a tar pit. exhaust blocking valves during their life time would rust and carbon in a restricted position. So the bottom the intake was always hot.
One of the first things we did in the 70's as hot rodders was to use a cutting torch to remove the exhaust heat riser blocking valve. Install intake manifold gaskets blocking the cross over passage. remove the heavy valve spring rotator retainers and splash caps.
Smart people just buy heads without a cross over.
To another poster: Do you actually believe scientifically that a air gap manifold keeps a motor from warming up slower than a non air gap?
I am running an air gap on a big block with no issues at all. I run a 195 degree thermostat and have only half of the baffle at top of the radiator to ensure cool air gets up around the air filter. The carb and air cleaner is actually cool when I shut down. Narrow down your variables by wiring your choke open for a while and see what happens to the plugs.
This^ I dont run chokes on any of my muscle cars. I just pump it a few times when its cold and start cranking, and then just do the fast foot until it stays running.
I have stock points all the way to exotic MSD, and have never had fouling problems.
I do always warm them up completely and drive them if possible every time they are started.
I never start them up to move them real quick, and then shut them off cold. That is what we term the body shop Blues
To another poster: Do you actually believe scientifically that a air gap manifold keeps a motor from warming up slower than a non air gap?
If that was my comment being referred to - I didn't make any 'scientific' claim - purely practical 'seat of pants' experience with optimally jetted carb (and 195 degree 'stat)