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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 01:59 PM
  #41  
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Honestly, I just disconnected mine. Pump the gas a few times before I turn the key and it fires right up. Even when it's freezing out. I hold the gas on at about 1000 rpm for two minutes and after that it idles fine. I just let it warm up a bit while I'm getting ready and go. The Holley electric choke is a pain in the ***.
Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:43 PM
  #42  
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Default Aluminum Should Never Be Used In Electrical Circuits

Back in the 1970's after thousands of houses burned up because of the use of aluminum wires the use of aluminum was abandoned in favor of copper. Aluminum has a tremendous expansion/contraction ratio so connections loosen over time AND in the presence of air aluminum oxidizes rapidly. My electric choke (made in France) used aluminum grounds and steel rivets so its no wonder the ground failed according to the temperature it was seeing. Certainly the reason why it would work perfectly in higher temperatures but fail in lower temperatures. Had these electric choke housings been made to military specs copper or silver would have been used and they'd last virtually forever.
Old Dec 27, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #43  
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How well does that swamp cooler work with 90% humidity in south central LA? Can you feel a difference?
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 03:21 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
Back in the 1970's after thousands of houses burned up because of the use of aluminum wires the use of aluminum was abandoned in favor of copper. Aluminum has a tremendous expansion/contraction ratio so connections loosen over time AND in the presence of air aluminum oxidizes rapidly. My electric choke (made in France) used aluminum grounds and steel rivets so its no wonder the ground failed according to the temperature it was seeing. Certainly the reason why it would work perfectly in higher temperatures but fail in lower temperatures. Had these electric choke housings been made to military specs copper or silver would have been used and they'd last virtually forever.
Preventing corrosion between dis-similar metals is the number one concern with "military specs". It's caused by electrolysis, not thermal changes. If your choke housing was built to say, Lockheed Martin specs, you wouldn't be able to afford it.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 04:32 AM
  #45  
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Default Hot And Running

Had I adjusted my lifters "hot and running" and drilled my thermostat I wouldn't be having these annoying choke problems.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 06:07 AM
  #46  
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Once I get my new choke housing installed tomorrow I'll continue to use the heated air from my exhaust to help keep the housing HOT. In this sub teen weather the wash from my severe duty 7 blade clutch fan is bitter cold and the additional heat will certainly help it. Wish me luck guys.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 10:55 AM
  #47  
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Default Ram Air Causing The Problem?

I was telling a friend of mine about how my choke would reset itself when I was driving at higher speeds on sub teen mornings but come completely off when I drove at real slow speeds. He said my ram air is likely causing the problem. My new choke housing will arrive tomorrow via USPS so I'll find out whether it solves the problem or not. If not then its the ram air causing it like I have been suspecting all along.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 11:53 AM
  #48  
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Default Hot air

Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
Once I get my new choke housing installed tomorrow I'll continue to use the heated air from my exhaust to help keep the housing HOT. In this sub teen weather the wash from my severe duty 7 blade clutch fan is bitter cold and the additional heat will certainly help it. Wish me luck guys.
Sounds like an excellent way to cause premature failure of the new choke element which requires unheated air.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:20 PM
  #49  
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Default How About Limiting My Speed To 15 mph?

Maybe I should just limit my speed to about 15 mph? What do you think about that idea?

I noticed my exhaust produces almost no steam when my choke is disabled. When it was working my exhaust produced a LOT of steam.

Last edited by toobroketoretire; Dec 28, 2015 at 02:12 PM.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 02:19 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Sounds like an excellent way to cause premature failure of the new choke element which requires unheated air.
the latest generation of Holley (and Edelbrock) electric chokes draw less current than the original design therefore they often have issues with the heater does not always provide enough heat to allow the choke to stay fully open in cold weather operating conditions. we have restricted the clean air supply in the past to avoid the problem. you could always try to find a early production choke cover or a electric choke cover that has a stronger heater element but that is easier said than done.

we also have added heated air to help with the choke operation which was also done on many Ford applications by the factory so the carb had both electric and heated air to the choke.

Henry @ oles carb

Last edited by olescarb; Dec 28, 2015 at 02:23 PM.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #51  
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Default Fan Wash And/Or Ram Air

The only things that make any sense to me is the ice cold fan wash and/or the ice cold ram air that is causing my choke to reset at higher speeds. Keep the speed down to 20 mph or less and it stayed off. I know you guys are really interested in my progress so I'll keep you posted after my new choke housing arrives tomorrow.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 08:26 PM
  #52  
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Default Another Possible Reason Why My Choke Resets Itself

I may have found another reason why I'm having choke problems. The zinc choke housing has a 1/2" diameter brass piston that manifold vacuum pulls on to assist opening the choke butterfly. As I have a very low 5-1/2" Hg at idle in DRIVE there is very little pull on my piston which would also hamper my choke opening. So my problem could be caused by several different things; the low manifold vacuum being one of them.

The whole purpose of the "fresh air" port is to vent the other side of the brass piston and that's why Holley tells you to NEVER block that port.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 05:35 AM
  #53  
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Default Use The Vacuum Tank For A Stonger Vacuum?

If low vacuum to my choke housing is an issue I know a solution. I remembered my vacuum tank holds a lot stronger vacuum than the vacuum available at idle in DRIVE (only 5.5 Hg) so if this new choke housing doesn't solve my problem I'll tap into my vacuum tank and then run a 3/16" hose to the choke housing. With the 17-18" Hg available in my vacuum tank it would certainly exert a MUCH harder pull on the brass piston in my choke housing.

Early this summer I solved my power brake @ idle problem by teeing my brake booster into my vacuum tank which gave me 3 times as much vacuum; eliminating the need for an expensive vacuum pump. So as I can get 3 times as much vacuum for the brake booster I can also use that increased vacuum for my choke housing.

Now I'm being told my new choke housing won't arrive until the 31st so I have a few more days to wait.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 07:05 AM
  #54  
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If you only have 5.5" vacuum you either have a lot of cam, or badly tuned motor. What is the timing at idle?
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #55  
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Default Will Use Vacuum Tank Vacuum For The Choke Piston

I was testing my choke housing this morning by applying vacuum to the rear vacuum port and found it exerts a pretty powerful pull on the 1/2" diameter brass piston that is in the housing. That "down force" on the piston pulls the coiled spring backwards (unwinding it) which would help to pull the choke open and keep it open.

Knowing my engine only produces a scant 5.5" Hg at idle in Drive and knowing my vacuum tank is storing 17-18" Hg I'll tee into my vacuum tank to get the vacuum necessary for my choke housing. With 3-1/2 times the Hg of vacuum going to my choke housing it should really help my choke pull open and stay pulled open.

The 1st picture shows the rubber plug I glued onto the vacuum inlet port to plug it and the 2nd picture shows the 3/16" steel nipple I installed in my choke housing to run my tank vacuum to. Wish me luck guys!
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #56  
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Default Choke Pull Off Piston

The brass choke pull off piston needs a lot more than 5.5" Hg at idle in DRIVE to work right. I put my zinc choke housing back on this morning and have it temporarily connected to manifold vacuum but I'll connect it to tank vacuum as soon as I can buy some new 5/32" hose. I already have a 3/16" vacuum tap in my wiper door HOT line for checking tank vacuum so I'll just use that existing tap.

I will solve this annoying choke problem or die trying.....................
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 02:52 PM
  #57  
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Anyone following this still think EFI is to much work or not see the benefits now? I am surprised you haven't decided this electric choke is to much of a hassle and switched it to manual.

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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 06:56 AM
  #58  
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When does your motor produce the 17 to 18 inches of vacuum stored in the vacuum tank if not at idle?

Last edited by SH-60B; Dec 30, 2015 at 06:57 AM.
Old Dec 30, 2015 | 07:04 AM
  #59  
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Default Now Will Be Using A Silicon O-Ring On Choke Pull Off Piston

Here's the latest: I carefully sanded the grooves in the choke pull off piston wider and deeper and installed a common neoprene o-ring into the bottom groove. With it lubed with petroleum jelly it slides very easy and also totally seals; making the copper tubing useless because air won't flow thru it any more. A good idea at the time but the o-ring will make it obsolete. This morning I'm heading to the auto parts store in the valley to buy silicon A/C o-rings because they're so much softer and will seal even better.

My new choke housings will arrive tomorrow morning via USPS so I can finally get it back together. Then I'll road test it and let you know how everything turns out. With the new choke housing and the more powerful pull on the choke pull off piston I'm hoping my choke resetting problem will finally vanish. Its fun to experiment with things, huh?
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 09:19 AM
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Sure, when there's a point to it.



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