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It looks like my crankshaft end is threaded, does any one know what the threads are, and if they are right or left hand threads? My hope is to be able to tighten a bolt with a large washer over the pulley and damper and drive the damper in a little bit. It seems to be out a little bit because the pulley doesn't quite line up with the power steering pump pulley.
Does this make sense? I'll try to post a picture in a second.
It looks like my crankshaft end is threaded, does any one know what the threads are, and if they are right or left hand threads? My hope is to be able to tighten a bolt with a large washer over the pulley and damper and drive the damper in a little bit. It seems to be out a little bit because the pulley doesn't quite line up with the power steering pump pulley.
Does this make sense? I'll try to post a picture in a second.
Steve
You should not drive the damper on with the retaining bolt.
You risk stripping the threads in the crank snout and then you'll be in a world of hurt. There's a tool for this job.
It looks like my crankshaft end is threaded, does any one know what the threads are, and if they are right or left hand threads? My hope is to be able to tighten a bolt with a large washer over the pulley and damper and drive the damper in a little bit. It seems to be out a little bit because the pulley doesn't quite line up with the power steering pump pulley.
Does this make sense? I'll try to post a picture in a second.
Steve
I really doubt your damper isn't on far enough but rather your power steering pump's mount bracket is just tweaked a bit.
It seems my power steering pump bracket is ok and in the right spot, if the pump gets moved forward, the pump will be in the way of the alternator belt. So thats why I thought the damper might not be all the way in.
It looks like my crankshaft end is threaded, does any one know what the threads are, and if they are right or left hand threads? My hope is to be able to tighten a bolt with a large washer over the pulley and damper and drive the damper in a little bit. It seems to be out a little bit because the pulley doesn't quite line up with the power steering pump pulley.
Does this make sense? I'll try to post a picture in a second.
Steve
it should already have a bolt with a thick washer. If not Oreillys has them on their high performance wall. It is far enough on from your picture that I would reach down there with a impact gun and reasonably tighten the bolt. The balancer will suck in tight and you will not break or strip anything unless you are excessive after the balancer stops moving.
They do make a tool but I wouldn't hassle it at this point.
Thanks for all the insight guys! I ended up getting an install tool and trying to make sure the balancer was on enough. Turns out there was no bolt and washer in the end of the crank, to top it off the threads were stripped or mashed so I couldn't get the tool threaded in. I ended up running a tap in the hole, it cleaned up the threads and was able to use the tool. It didn't move in any that I could see, at least now I can get a bolt back in and feel safe. On a side note, I found the squeal I was looking for when I revved up the engine....it was the fan clutch. Like any matching numbers part I didn't realize how much those go for!!! Wow. Just put on an O'Reillys until I can have this one rebuilt (stamped 5-20-68 sc)
Thanks again for the tips! This forum rocks!!
Is that what the OP is saying? There's no bolt holding the balancer in place?? Holy hood holes, Batman!!
Believe it or not they did not use a bolt on the early small blocks. The balancer was just pressed on. It is pretty improbable that it would come off without the bolt as the press fit is tight.
On the race engines we hone them so we can take them apart faster usually without a puller or a light tap tap tap to remove them.
Thanks for all the insight guys! I ended up getting an install tool and trying to make sure the balancer was on enough. Turns out there was no bolt and washer in the end of the crank, to top it off the threads were stripped or mashed so I couldn't get the tool threaded in. I ended up running a tap in the hole, it cleaned up the threads and was able to use the tool. It didn't move in any that I could see, at least now I can get a bolt back in and feel safe. On a side note, I found the squeal I was looking for when I revved up the engine....it was the fan clutch. Like any matching numbers part I didn't realize how much those go for!!! Wow. Just put on an O'Reillys until I can have this one rebuilt (stamped 5-20-68 sc)
Thanks again for the tips! This forum rocks!!
If the threads have been weakened, I'd use blue Loctite, just to be sure the bolt doesn't back out. What about the misalignment of the PS pulley? Is it as far off as it looks in the photo you posted? I would want to see that corrected.
Thanks 454, I will definitely use some Loctite on the bolt threads. As far as the pulley alignment, I guess I will try some spacers behind the PS pulley.
Steve
Thanks 454, I will definitely use some Loctite on the bolt threads. As far as the pulley alignment, I guess I will try some spacers behind the PS pulley.
Steve
Are you sure the correct pulley is on the pump? I remember having to get a correct pulley for my 80 because of misalignment issues. I don't recall which one, but I know one of them was incorrect from the PO.
Are you sure the correct pulley is on the pump? I remember having to get a correct pulley for my 80 because of misalignment issues. I don't recall which one, but I know one of them was incorrect from the PO.
No way would I space out the pulley. It might be possible to space out the body of the pump, but even that could create unexpected problems.
To the OP, you need the correct tools to remove and reinstall the pulley without damage to the bearing or seal. I don't usually buy Chinese, but this set does have the right pieces for occasionally pulling and reinstalling the PS pulley:
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
C3 pulleys are spaced different than any other small block chevy pulley. If you by a pulley set it has to say it fits a C3 Corvette.
Second I would not remove or install the balancer without the proper tools. If you want to whack it on with a hammer of take it off prybar you are looking for trouble.
Last edited by MotorHead; Dec 27, 2015 at 04:24 PM.
C3 pulleys are spaced different than any other small block chevy pulley. If you by a pulley set it has to say it fits a C3 Corvette.
Second I would not remove or install the balancer without the proper tools. If you want to whack it on with a hammer of take it off prybar you are looking for trouble.
OK, not sure why you quoted me? The pulley I replaced the incorrect one on my 80 with came from a corvette vendor. I never advocated the R&R of a pulley with a hammer or prybar (I used my Snapon puller that I got from my tool box).
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by BlackC3vette
OK, not sure why you quoted me? The pulley I replaced the incorrect one on my 80 with came from a corvette vendor. I never advocated the R&R of a pulley with a hammer or prybar (I used my Snapon puller that I got from my tool box).