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Considering the 1200 dollars I just spent on the Doug's side pipes, I would like to avoid changing headers.the intake came on the engine. Are you saying a single apllies more low end torque and the 2800 was bps reccomended stall
No single plane = top end and less torque, you want the dual plane for low/mid.
Try some collector inserts, they make some that are ventura shaped, they also make some cone inserts but I think the ventura style would help you more.
w/o knowing more detail of what the car does it's kinda hard to give too much advise but those headers are deff a top end race size and I'm betting the sidepipes are large.
edit: Just saw you said 4" while I was posting so yah deff too big.
Again...I'd do some tuning. Are you sure secondaries are opening? Getting ful throttle- C-3's have a steady problem with this as pedal arm bends.
I'd stick with the dual plane intake unless it's a really small one. Got any pics?
Outside diameter of sidepipes is 4"...but what is the inside diameter of the baffle and how long is it? Most sidepipe headers have way too long primaries...but that's what we've got so we'll work with it.
Cam is exactly that...a good "warranty" cam to not give any issues.
Again...I'd do some tuning. Are you sure secondaries are opening? Getting ful throttle- C-3's have a steady problem with this as pedal arm bends.
I'd stick with the dual plane intake unless it's a really small one. Got any pics?
Outside diameter of sidepipes is 4"...but what is the inside diameter of the baffle and how long is it? Most sidepipe headers have way too long primaries...but that's what we've got so we'll work with it.
Cam is exactly that...a good "warranty" cam to not give any issues.
JIM
Not sure about secondaries. I have been deep in the throttle before running about 90 and it has skipped a time or two. Almost like a fuel issue. It is a big intake, also a high rise.
Putting it on a chassis dyno with someone good at tuning sounds like a better option as we go forward. Need to make sure you're getting what you paid for before we start changing things.
Fuel/ignition systems and tuning to make it all work are vital.
Make sure the secondaries are opening 100%. I have a brand new Holley 750 vac secondary that the secondaries only open about 30-40%... This was on a 440 hp 396".. I tried all kind of stuff to help the secondaries open and they would still only open to a certain points
Put a zip tie on the shaft to the diaphragm and go hammer on it... Come back and measure how much the zip tie has been pushed down the shaft, that will tell you how much they are opening.
I ended up building a 65' Holley 780 vac sec that has the pitot tube in the primary to pull a better vacuum on the secondaries, they open considerably better, but still not 100%. Maybe like 75%, but way better then the new 750 vac sec I tried first.
All of this BS is why I love double pumpers... They always open and hit hard when they do.
I'm betting your secondaries are lazy, hence why it feels soft down low.
After that, the 200r4 and 3500 converter should wake it up nicely.
Getting the timing and carb tuned specifically for your engine combo will make a world of difference.
My first dyno tune on a 383 crate engine put down 311 rwhp.
Disappointing for a 475 hp build.
4 years later I had it tuned by another workshop.
After 5 hours on the dyno, 60 additional rear wheel horses were found.
Still running strong after 4 years. All I have done is replace plugs.
Get the tune sorted out and your 396 should really put a smile on your face.
Why I asked thim this below. Wondering if he has an ideal distributor curve. That motor should smoke the tires all day. 200r with a bigger converter should wake it up
Sure you want low end and not more power period?]
Bigger motors can use more of everythign and get away with it.
The suggestiosn of getting an 02 bung welded in and spending some time monitoring things was a good one.