Oil Pressure sender connection?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil Pressure sender connection?
Four bolts, two fuel lines, and the oil pressure sending connection and the LS5 (1971) is ready to lift out. I’m going to disconnect the oil pressure sender at the oil filter, but the setup (copper line and all) looks rather delicate. Any precautions or tips for getting it off without damage.
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Four bolts, two fuel lines, and the oil pressure sending connection and the LS5 (1971) is ready to lift out. I’m going to disconnect the oil pressure sender at the oil filter, but the setup (copper line and all) looks rather delicate. Any precautions or tips for getting it off without damage.
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
#4
Drifting
Like Alan says, flare wrenches if you have them. There is no sending unit as with an electric system. Just a brass fitting threaded into the block above the oil filter and a fitting for the line to connect. Get the line disconnected and remove the other fittings from the block with a box end wrench. All of the fittings can be easily replaced if you scuff them up.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Like Alan says, flare wrenches if you have them. There is no sending unit as with an electric system. Just a brass fitting threaded into the block above the oil filter and a fitting for the line to connect. Get the line disconnected and remove the other fittings from the block with a box end wrench. All of the fittings can be easily replaced if you scuff them up.
I have the flare wrenches. My main is twisting the copper line during the removed process. The connection between the small and larger flare nut looks semi-permanent (see pic). There is a midstream connection that looks a little more forgiving. The last thing I want to do is run a new line all the way to the back of the oil pressure gauge. That would a real PITA.
#6
Race Director
If it were me, I would hold the mid section with a wrench and loosen the smaller. Be sure to keep the copper line centered as best as you can to keep from twisting the line.
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wheatpj (01-01-2016)
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks, That didn't occur to me. I was going to try to hold the small nut stationary and twist the larger. Your way is probably less susceptible to damage. Fingers crossed. If I damage the copper line, I guess I will try to get away with replacing from the midstream connection back to the block.
Last edited by wheatpj; 01-01-2016 at 10:37 PM.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks, That didn't occur to me. I was going to try to hold the small nut stationary and twist the larger. Your way is probably less susceptible to damage. Fingers crossed. If I damage the copper line, I guess I will try to get away with replacing from the midstream connection back to the block.
Thanks everyone.
#9
Le Mans Master