Oil Pressure sender connection?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Oil Pressure sender connection?
Four bolts, two fuel lines, and the oil pressure sending connection and the LS5 (1971) is ready to lift out. I’m going to disconnect the oil pressure sender at the oil filter, but the setup (copper line and all) looks rather delicate. Any precautions or tips for getting it off without damage.
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Four bolts, two fuel lines, and the oil pressure sending connection and the LS5 (1971) is ready to lift out. I’m going to disconnect the oil pressure sender at the oil filter, but the setup (copper line and all) looks rather delicate. Any precautions or tips for getting it off without damage.
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Also, any reminders and tips about things I may have overlooked prior to the lift are also appreciated. All the external components (including carb and distributor) have been removed and openings blocked. I am removing the engine w/ trans using a 2 ton lift and a quality leveler attached to the accessory bolt holes in the heads. Grade 8 bolts of course, engaged to at least ¾ of an inch.
Thanks - Pat
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 121
From: Kernersville NC
Like Alan says, flare wrenches if you have them. There is no sending unit as with an electric system. Just a brass fitting threaded into the block above the oil filter and a fitting for the line to connect. Get the line disconnected and remove the other fittings from the block with a box end wrench. All of the fittings can be easily replaced if you scuff them up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Like Alan says, flare wrenches if you have them. There is no sending unit as with an electric system. Just a brass fitting threaded into the block above the oil filter and a fitting for the line to connect. Get the line disconnected and remove the other fittings from the block with a box end wrench. All of the fittings can be easily replaced if you scuff them up.
I have the flare wrenches. My main is twisting the copper line during the removed process. The connection between the small and larger flare nut looks semi-permanent (see pic). There is a midstream connection that looks a little more forgiving. The last thing I want to do is run a new line all the way to the back of the oil pressure gauge. That would a real PITA.
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Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
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If it were me, I would hold the mid section with a wrench and loosen the smaller. Be sure to keep the copper line centered as best as you can to keep from twisting the line.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Thanks, That didn't occur to me. I was going to try to hold the small nut stationary and twist the larger. Your way is probably less susceptible to damage. Fingers crossed. If I damage the copper line, I guess I will try to get away with replacing from the midstream connection back to the block.
Last edited by wheatpj; Jan 1, 2016 at 10:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Thanks, That didn't occur to me. I was going to try to hold the small nut stationary and twist the larger. Your way is probably less susceptible to damage. Fingers crossed. If I damage the copper line, I guess I will try to get away with replacing from the midstream connection back to the block.
The worst part was trying to get the motor into the cradle. I rounded one of the motor mount bolts. Fortunately, it was the bottom one. I was able to bend the motor mount back and forth until it broke, which gave access for the cradle to accept the top two motor bolt holes. I'll leave the rounded bolt to the machine shop when the engine is rebuilt.Thanks everyone.
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