My wipers have quit. I checked the fuse and it was good. Don't see any voltage at the motor. Could the relay in the rear compartment be bad and how do you test it good or bad. Can it be bypassed?

Thanks.

 

Sure the override switch is not turned off?

 

You can bypass the controller in the right rear compartment with this...

http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50g&ukey=49460

 

Going to show my dumbness. I've had my car for a good while, first time I have heard of an override, what the heck is it and where is it located.

 

No override switch on an '80. Such is for the vacuum operated door that covered the wiper well. Such was discontinued after '72.

 

I am actually not sure there is on 82 but earlier c3s had them, located under the steering column . They may have eliminated them with the new delay system.

 

The over-ride switch went away when the wiper door was remove in 1973.

On the 1980-1982 car...

1st, I'd verify the motor is good by bench testing it (on the car). I'd remove all the wires from the motor and use this test. You can remove the bellcrank from the motor so the arms themselves won't sweep.

1973-1982 Wiper Motor Testing.


Once you know the motor works then I'd probably go to the controller and by-pass it. Use the picture below and just temporarily jumper the controller wires. If you do this and the controller is bad your wipers will work on hi and low only. If the wipers fail to work with this jumper test then I'd go to the wiper switch... either replace or rebuild it.



Wiper switch rebuilding info can be found at this link: (video soon)

1978-1982 Corvette Windshield Wiper Switch Repair

 

Am I correct in assuming that I do the bypass on the plug for the controller located in the storage compartment behind the passenger set?

 

That is where it is on my '81.

SR

 

Yes you are correct. The instructions from Willcox are right on. I had the same issue with my 81, same set up. Tested wiper motor and found it worked but bad gears. Replaced the wiper motor and found the controller was running hot, bad and not working. I took my original plug for the controller and made a bypass connector as mentioned earlier. My wipers worked after that on low and high. I ran it like that until recently I found someone selling a brand new (new design) controller for a decent price, installed and now all wiper functions, high, low, intermittent and wash work again! Willcox also has them available for sale, but I would follow the troubleshooting steps first to make sure your controller is either bad or good.

Good luck.

 

Yes... and you want to jumper the wires.. I have a bypass connector in the picture but it illustrates the wires that should be jumped to bypass the controller..

 

On my 1980 , my wipers would not work I would turn the switch on and go unplug and plug the motor back in and it was working again LOL. I solved that quirk with a new motor while i over hauled the whole car

 

That override switch is for the headlights, not the wipers.

 

I have "no" power to the wiper switch at all. With direct 12 V to the motor it works as it should. Any idea where to look for the voltage?

 

Did you jumper the controller box?

 

I jumped the connector end , wrong point to jump ?

 

Please follow the instructions above... Jumper the connector at the module.

 

I jumped in the connector and had nothing. Is there a test for the wiper switch?

 

All this info is in the manual at the link I posted above.

1978-1982 Corvette Windshield Wiper Switch Repair

It has detailed instructions on how to take the wiper switch apart and repair it too.. (except for the pot that controls the delay). I have shot a wiper switch rebuild video, I've just not had time to finish it up... maybe soon. In the video I'll cover how to get to and fix that potentiometer inside the switch.



Wiper Switch Testing 78-82 w/pulse wipers

I tried to color the terminals to the corresponding color below.
A Gray.. This is a power connection for the wiper lamp. Has nothing to do with the basic function of the switch and only receives power when you pull on the dash lamps or interior lamps.

B is an empty socket in the connector. Nothing happing there.

C is the purple wire.. it is the high and low speed ground. If you test continuity from the purple to E, the black terminal you should have continuity in all positions except off.

D Gray with a black stripe. This is your high speed ground and should pass continuity to the black wire connection

E in all positions except Hi speed. E.. as mentioned above.. is the main ground wire for the switch.

F is the pink wire, and the only time this wire will ping continuity to ground is when you push inward on the switch.

G is the dark green wire and this is the delay control wire. It will ping continuity to black in every switch position except the delay pulse position.

H is the brown wire and it is the input voltage to the delay pot built into the switch.

I is the white with a black stripe wire. This is the output voltage from the delay pot in the switch.

The controller… The delay controller has been an issue for years with these cars and more so than the wiper switch. I’m not saying you couldn't have a bad one, but the only issues you have with the wiper switches is the corrosion that builds up inside of them. When they corrode they don’t make proper contact and fail. Controllers short out, they wires come unsoldered, relays go bad and so on. A shorted controller can take out a wiper switch.

If you do decide to tear the switch apart and wish to clean the pot.. here is how you do it too..

 

Well I had some time and checked some more. The relay does click, jumped the controller connector and had no effect. Used my voltmeter to check for voltage at the connector for the controller, "no voltage " there or at the wiper switch. Is there possibly a fusible link in the circuit ? Checked for contunity at the grounds and I have grounds, ? ? ?