When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
All three of the mounting holes for the screws that hold the trim panel to the driver door are slightly too large. While the screws seem to grab properly upon installation after even a short time on the road they are all quite loose.
I know the old trick of steel wool for slightly loose connections in a bolt/nut type situation but don't know what to do for sheet metal.
Any suggestions?
BTW, I replaced all of the interior screws and they hold fine in the passenger door so I know that that the screws themselves are not the problem.
If they're close (not too much over) and in the steel panel you can usually go around the edge of the hole (maybe 1/16th away from the hole) with a center punch and put about 6-8 "dents" around (automatic center punch) each hole. This will force some of the metal back into the hole and close it up.
If it's more, you really need to get into adding a small piece of tin to the back side of the skin (pre-drill and epoxy it in place) or a u-clip type speed nut may work
M
JB Weld the hole to make it smaller
JB Weld a blindnut behind the hole
Pop rivet some virgn sheet metal behind the enlarged hole, pre drill the new hole
JB Weld the hole to make it smaller
JB Weld a blindnut behind the hole Pop rivet some virgn sheet metal behind the enlarged hole, pre drill the new hole
That last one gets my vote, and make sure the new metal is a gauge or two thicker than original. You could also attach the new metal with JB Weld or by soldering or brazing.
Here's what I do. Take a small piece of bailing wire, bent 90 degrees, and stick/hook it in the hole. Now mount the panel and screw it down. This makes the hole just a little bit smaller and gives the screw something to "bite" into. Usually works for me.
Here's what I do. Take a small piece of bailing wire, bent 90 degrees, and stick/hook it in the hole. Now mount the panel and screw it down. This makes the hole just a little bit smaller and gives the screw something to "bite" into. Usually works for me.
I learned this trick from my Father back in the 60's. He always used a piece of copper wire however. He said it was softer and would conform to the screw easier and there was less of a problem with corrosion.
FWIW, I have the luxury of having a great fastener shop not far from my office. There, they stock many, many fasteners, including sheet metal screws with a smaller head size than normal for the body of the screw. For example, if I have an oversized hole problem with a size 6 screw, I can buy a size 8 screw with a size 6 head. This shop can almost always match the type head and proper plating, thereby making the repair invisible with no extra work.
From first hand experience, I know this is how the assembly plant made corrections like this. They used what is commonly termed a "repair" bolt/screw/etc.
Here's what I do. Take a small piece of bailing wire, bent 90 degrees, and stick/hook it in the hole. Now mount the panel and screw it down. This makes the hole just a little bit smaller and gives the screw something to "bite" into. Usually works for me.
It's been a while since I posted this but I finally decided to try this fix after the front screw for the arm/rest door pull also came loose and refused to hold. It was simple and worked BEAUTIFULLY. Thanks!!!! I used 16 gauge aluminum wire.
It's been a while since I posted this but I finally decided to try this fix after the front screw for the arm/rest door pull also came loose and refused to hold. It was simple and worked BEAUTIFULLY. Thanks!!!! I used 16 gauge aluminum wire.