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I have it installed on the car, but haven't driven it yet, so no real life experiences yet. People here whom I've talked to about it have all said that it's the best 1000$ they've spend on their cars! I trust them completely. :yesnod:
I installed it on my car last January, and have put about 500 miles on it, I think it's made a world of difference. The steering feels tight and solid, there is absoulutely no slop, not even a 1/8" movement in the steering wheel. The "on center" feel is probably the most dramatic improvement. My original steering system was nearly brand new - rebuilt steering column, all poly bushings, brand new tie rods and sleeves, all new ball joints, new idler arm, etc. The only drawback of the Steeroids system is that it makes the chassis flex that much more noticeable.
I think it will be hard to find someone that isn't satisfied with this product. It has made a world of difference in the steering of my Vette. Yes, it is worth the money. :yesnod:
I've had it for almost a thousand miles now. The car is a real joy to drive- even on a bumpy SoCal concrete freeway.
The trip from LA to Monterey a couple weeks ago was awesome. The steering feels much like C4 now. Very tight and precise.
I used to be scared to drive close to the K rail on the freeway, but now I can confidently drive right next to it:)
My only gripe is POOR or complete lack of quality control from Speed Direct. It sacres me a little that they can ship such a critical component without any QC.
One other significant upgrade I made to the steering was adding a new Momo steering wheel. The skinny '68 wheel was huge and uncomfortable.
I think it was worth the money because that's about how much a completely new system would cost. And there is no doubt that rack and pinion is superior to the old design.
I can't imagine owning a C3 without it. ...unless it's an NCRS certified show car or something.
Micks69, I pulled the input steering wheel linkage from Lumina vans, and such...seemed to work the best, I used only 2 universal joints...they come apart same as any, and press/stake them together in the configuation you need...
rack positioning is revealed by pix...look at my sig file...couple of shots there...I happened to use HDespot angle iron welded into a box length and cut/bend to shape for the critical mount, on the driver's side...the pass side is just angle iron..nothing laterally, just fore/aft and up down....
rack is from a '92 grand am, as is hoses....get the input linkage for the rack fitting..
I collapsed my steering column slide shaft, easy to do with hammer...and then aligned up rack for center and put linkage in place...takes a bit of fabrication...nothing really major though....
I angled a bracket from the rack mounting to the old steering ram mounting on the outside bottom of the frame...stops twisting of themounting....the mounting has about a 15* angle to it, telted forward....
the system is actually fairly easy to work with...only hard part was really was having machine shop with morse taper bits to match stock tie rod ends...make an adaptor steel block for rack output...
I just cut the tie rod collars, inserted 9/16 steel rod welded good, and then a hollow steel tube over top the whole thing, welded also...strong as dirt, stronger than original anyway....so you can do your own measurements...
I cut an arch out of the back of my driver's side engine mount to clear the input....plenty strong enough still needed to get theangle on the output vs the input so the universals had a useable angle on them...
once I found out what rack to use, the rest only took a week part time to go, and a buddy did the welding...not a huge project...and it's well worth the time....I got a practically new ungreasy rack for 35 bux at a U pullit junkyard....use a magnet make sure what you get is a steel center constructed rack, the all aluminum ones are junk....