Engine alignment help please.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Engine alignment help please.
I have my new engine (big block 4-spd) sitting in the engine bay, but the mounts are off about a half a bolt-hole width everywhere. Right now the engine is sitting on a pair of Philips point screwdrivers though the engine mounts and frame. The trans output shaft needs to move towards the driver’s-side. Everything is out a half a bolt-hole width….the trans mounting holes are out that far if I pull on it really hard. I’m confident the mounts are okay; they are new OEM style from Zips Corvette. I have tried wiggle the engine every which way but it won’t it line-up.
The frame is solid but it is possible it may be out a plumb. Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Pat
The frame is solid but it is possible it may be out a plumb. Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.Thanks, Pat
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
The engine is intentionally off-set to the passenger side. Did you remove an engine from this frame, or is it a replacement frame or a project that came without an engine mounted? The "horns" may have collapsed over the years and leaned inward. Or the frame may have been damaged in an accident. I've seen dimensional diagrams on the web that should allow you to measure and compare your frame.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
The engine is intentionally off-set to the passenger side. Did you remove an engine from this frame, or is it a replacement frame or a project that came without an engine mounted? The "horns" may have collapsed over the years and leaned inward. Or the frame may have been damaged in an accident. I've seen dimensional diagrams on the web that should allow you to measure and compare your frame.
Last edited by wheatpj; Jan 25, 2016 at 09:03 PM. Reason: spelling
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,027
Likes: 94
From: meraux LA
What type of mounts are you using? Solid, Rubber or poly? I just installed mine and had to do a lot of wiggling , pushing and pulling to get the bolts in.
I got one side in then worked on the other side. Is your fuel pump mounted on the block? I could not install my bbc with it on. I had to install the fuel pump after I had the motor bolted in. It kept hitting on the upper a arm. Check it out.
I got one side in then worked on the other side. Is your fuel pump mounted on the block? I could not install my bbc with it on. I had to install the fuel pump after I had the motor bolted in. It kept hitting on the upper a arm. Check it out.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
The mounts I am trying to use are rubber OEM style. The vendor description is 70-82 Engine Mount w/interlock. The manufacture is Auto Extra part#2267 from what I can read thru the Vendor’s sticker. Could it be the mounts? Anybody have any opinion of mount that might match up better or be more forgiving of subtle frame misalignment.
I might try taking up some weight with a jack under the front cross-member (on the edges of course) to see if I can’t finesse the bolts into position. I’m looking for advice.
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Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,090
Likes: 4,015
From: New Braunfels Texas
You may need to "clock" the assembly......one side is up and one side down.....but when it gets out of whack it "swings" kinda like a hammack and can be very frustrating to locate the blots.....
See if you can get one bolt in and then post a pic of where the other falls....
Jebby
See if you can get one bolt in and then post a pic of where the other falls....
Jebby
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
You may need to "clock" the assembly......one side is up and one side down.....but when it gets out of whack it "swings" kinda like a hammack and can be very frustrating to locate the blots.....
See if you can get one bolt in and then post a pic of where the other falls....
Jebby
See if you can get one bolt in and then post a pic of where the other falls....
Jebby
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 421
From: BC
Those shims are for AC cars only and raise the front of the motor very slightly. The GM "reasoning" behind this was to keep the carb float level after the extra weight of all the AC stuff. Do as Jebby says. Drop the motor in with all the weight still on the hoist. Get the lowest mount lined up and stick something like a phillips screwdriver through the one side of the mount to line up the hole and insert the bolt through the opposite end. Then repeat on the other side but keep the tension on the hoist until you have it lined up with the bolt in. If you just drop it down you will never get the bolts in. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
The engine/transmission is offset to the rear end, you must keep this offset or you will get harmonic vibration at various speeds, especially around the 60-80mph range.
The drive shaft is in a Z type alignment with the transmission and rear end.
So, if you are trying to get this in a perfect alignment ... Don't
The drive shaft is in a Z type alignment with the transmission and rear end.
So, if you are trying to get this in a perfect alignment ... Don't
Last edited by pauldana; Jan 26, 2016 at 01:02 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,646
Likes: 189
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The smart way to drop an engine in is to leave the mounts to the block loose. Meaning all three bolts on each side are loose. Drop the engine down and line up the bracket so you can can slide the long bolt thru. Don't tighten the long bolt yet.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
I couldn't get my Big Block in without using those shims. The bolts were about half a bolt thickness out of alignment without them.
Last edited by Danish Shark; Jan 26, 2016 at 03:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
The smart way to drop an engine in is to leave the mounts to the block loose. Meaning all three bolts on each side are loose. Drop the engine down and line up the bracket so you can can slide the long bolt thru. Don't tighten the long bolt yet.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
Thanks everyone for all the great information. I won't get to it until the weekend, but I feel a lot better knowing there are a number of things I can try. I will post back on my progress.
Thanks again
Pat
Thanks again
Pat
Last edited by wheatpj; Jan 26, 2016 at 09:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
The smart way to drop an engine in is to leave the mounts to the block loose. Meaning all three bolts on each side are loose. Drop the engine down and line up the bracket so you can can slide the long bolt thru. Don't tighten the long bolt yet.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
Next tighten up the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side ) to the block. Next tighten the long bolts. You are now finished. If you think this won't work I have done it this way for years, even when I take an engine out for work and put the same engine back in.
; I used MoterHead's method. Loosening the block to engine mount bolts allowed me to align the engine so I could get the transmission bolts in too. just tightened the bolts, worked great.Many thanks
Pat
