I'm getting ready to install the 427 and Muncie in the 68 convertible and plan on putting them in as a unit. Looking for a little help via suggestions and or pics that will make it go as smoothly as possible. I have an engine hoist and think I have everything that's needed. For example, is it best to drop in the engine/ transmission from the side or the front? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Drop it in from the top.

 

I only pulled engine by itself, but I had to jack up the front end to clear hoist rails. I then went in at an angle from the front after removing left front wheel. Hoist cylinder was right at the front edge of the wheel opening. Hope that helps.

 

Get a leveler for the hoist.
It's cheap and it makes the job much easier, especially when dropping the engine in with the transmission attached.

Remove the front wheel for access with the hoist

 

If it were mine i would remove the heater core/radiator sandwich even though it adds work. The manual trans cars dont have a removable trans crossmember so u have to tip the trans end up right away.

Now if u have enough help u can tie a rope on the end of the trans to pull down from below then u will need a jack to pick up the end of the trans to clear the X-member. Be careful as we nearly flattened the guy under the car just a couple of weeks ago when the hoist dropped the package even though the operator was trying to lower it slowly. Lucky the guy under the car was far enough back and the only casualty was the starter solenoid.

Be careful.

 

With the trans attached make sure to put the yoke in and tape it in place. Otherwise you risk dripping trans fluid everywhere.

 

Nice looking engine! Can't wait to add aluminum heads to mine. But I think I'll wait until I build a 540 to add them. My 454 is a 2 bolt main, cast crank, 3/8 rods, etc. not worth building up. Besides Momma wants to put my current engine into a 69 Camaro for her lol.

 

The rental cherry pickers jibs are too short to reach from the front. If it is just the engine, you can straddle the tire and install from the side. With the engine and transmission you need to remove the front tire and support the car on a floor jack. You must roll the car as you lower the engine and tranny. At least that is how I removed my 427 with a Richmond 5sp last summer. Attached photo shows all. Be careful with balance.

 

As posted above, you'll have to approach the car from the side and remove one of the wheels. Biggest problem is that the legs of the hoist will contact the wheel unless it is removed. Therefore the front of the car must be supported forward on the frame. I use jack stands on the frame extensions. Once the engine is positioned over the engine compartment with the trans pointed downward, use floor jacks near the front of the doors to raise the front of the car. That way the trans tunnel and the motor/trans are parallel and allows the tail of the trans to clear the crossmember. Once the engine is more or less in place, lower the car and the engine little by little until the car is level and the engine is almost on the mounts. Re-position the jack stands, seat the engine and you're done.

 

Plan things out. Make sure your hoist can go high enough to clear the fender. If you are doing the engine/trans together you might think about going straight in from the front if you have the room. Check your hoist. Does it have fully rotating casters on all four corners or just the front legs as that can limit your movement when doing it from the side if it's only 2 casters. I usually do it from the side if it's just the engine so you are going to have to plan out your jack stand locations. If from the side removing the wheels really helps with maneuverability of the hoist. As mentioned above, use a leveler. Below is my 69 427 going back in.

 

The front casters don't rotate/steer on the rental picker so you can't move the engine forward when approaching from the side. I did this all by myself and figured it out as I went along. It took a few extra hours trying to be safe. Note the floor jack must be behind the picker leg and parallel to the frame rail. Get help if you can. Extra eyes and hands will get it done faster and safer.

 

Sorry so slow (out of town) getting to this thread. I don’t know if you are finished, but I weigh-in because just installed my big-block w/ transmission a week ago. A couple of folks have recommended a leveler, this is a must in my opinion. I also strongly recommend the 2-ton lift. This way you can move the boom out to the last hole (1/2 ton setting) for better reach. I have the Harbor Freight foldable shop crane, which has 11 more inches (max reach 61 inches) of reach over the 1-ton version. I could not get the alignment I wanted (because of jack-stands) from the side. So, I approached from the front with the crane positioned just left (toward passenger side) of the point of the bumper. This placed the trans output shaft (yolk out shortens the length of the engine/trans unit) just forward of the firewall and the engine straddling the radiator core support behind the harmonic balancer. Then I started cranking on the leveler to point the trans downward at a very extreme angle. This raised the front of the engine, which allowed me to start lowering the engine. As the engine lowered the (crane’s) reach into the engine bay improved and the trans (with some guiding) moved into the transmission tunnel. With the engine tilted up and the reach improving as I lowered the engine, it cleared the radiator core support. To get the transmission over the cross-member we cranked on leveler to raise the output shaft and moved the engine rearward by moving the crane left along the angle of the bumper. By the time crane cleared bumper and was at the side of the car, I had all the reach I needed. Through the process of adjusting height and moving the crane it was just a matter of cranking on the leveler for the desired angle, and guiding the transmission over the cross-member and the motor mounts over arms on the frame.

I hope this helps. I also recommend placing old blankets or comforters over the nose and fender to protect from the crane and engine.

Good Luck
Pat