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On my 69 SB I went from 265/50x15 TA to G Force in 255x45x17 and they are far superior in all aspects. Just remember they are a summer only tire.
is this the same tire as the sport comp-2? I am looking to replace my 15 inch wheels and step up to the 18's
Still confused on offsets and back spacing though LOL looking at a set of 18x8 +1mm offset and 18x9.5 also +1mm offset.
wheels have 4.5 and 5.25 backspace....Im just afraid it will put the tire to far under the fender
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Fwiw, the CTS-V owners forum like the Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They're running 556 HP and up. I would have put Michelins on my own CTS-V but I couldn't get rears in the size I wanted for a M&S tire. Ended up getting Yokahoma Advan Sport A/S.
Last edited by resdoggie; Feb 9, 2016 at 12:14 PM.
Depending what you want... Summer only ultra High performance, All season ultra high performance, HP of car, driving style, size of tire.....make sure you get a ZR rated tire though. I have Cooper RS3-S (Summer only) and Cooper RS3-A (all season ZR) on non vette cars. Great all around tire and excellent wear characteristics.....not for racing though. Great deal....
Michelin Super Sports. They're running 556 HP and up. I would have put Michelins on my own CTS-V .............
I had the Gforce and could lay down a sustained burnout going down the freeway at 80mph by just pressing the gas peddle,,,, would not recommend them for high power racing applications.. ... now running the Bridgestone Potenza RE-11A.... now i can only shred the tires through 1st and 2nd:-)
wheel size will be 18x8 front and 18x9.5 rear
I only drive the car in the summer and get stuck in an occasional rain
horsepower?? not sure exactly its just a SBC approx. 450hp.
suspension full VBP kit QA1 shocks
driving style daily driver planning on an occasional autocross
looking at 235 40 18 for the front and275 35 18 rears
car has no flares and would like keep the tires close to original in circumference and tires pushed out to the fenders edge but not past it
wheel size will be 18x8 front and 18x9.5 rear
I only drive the car in the summer and get stuck in an occasional rain
horsepower?? not sure exactly its just a SBC approx. 450hp.
suspension full VBP kit QA1 shocks
driving style daily driver planning on an occasional autocross
not sure exactly its just a SBC approx. 450hp.
this is important... what is in your engine.. cam and compression and size and heads? this will tell us how much power you may really have..
car has not been to the chassis dyno yet
engine specs 11.1 pistons
Edelbrock 64cc heads 195 runners ported
Harland Sharp roller rockers 1.52
Performer RPM intake port matched
Comp Cam billet roller I will need to get the specs later on the build
wheel size will be 18x8 front and 18x9.5 rear
I only drive the car in the summer and get stuck in an occasional rain
horsepower?? not sure exactly its just a SBC approx. 450hp.
suspension full VBP kit QA1 shocks
driving style daily driver planning on an occasional autocross
looking at 235 40 18 for the front and275 35 18 rears
car has no flares and would like keep the tires close to original in circumference and tires pushed out to the fenders edge but not past it
I went through this same process last year and read hundreds of reviews to arrive at my conclusion. By the way, your tire sizes will result in diameters of 25.4" and 25.58" which is almost and inch and a half shorter than stock. I went with 245/45/18 front and 275/40/18 rear which has been a great fit to match what I had on before. Let me know if you want my link to a great tire height chart. I also still have a nice backspace to offset conversion chart if you're choosing rims.
Anyway, my extreme summer performance tire survey led me to the Bridgestone Potenza RE-11, regarded by many as equal to the Michelin Pilot Sports but $50 less each. My other runners up in order:
BFGoodrich G-Force Sport COMP-2, Dunlop Direzza DZ102, Nitto NT555, Kumho Ecsta Spt. Keep in mind I had a heck of a time choosing these models and then verifying that they would be available in the desired sizes I just mentioned. This was a lot of research time!
I had the Gforce and could lay down a sustained burnout going down the freeway at 80mph by just pressing the gas peddle,,,, would not recommend them for high power racing applications.. ... now running the Bridgestone Potenza RE-11A.... now i can only shred the tires through 1st and 2nd:-)
on the RE-11s! I'm tracking like a roller coaster now. Super stiff sidewall but feels great on the street.
I would not have guessed that about the G-Force, thanks for sharing that experience.
not sure exactly its just a SBC approx. 450hp.
this is important... what is in your engine.. cam and compression and size and heads? this will tell us how much power you may really have..
still would never go with the G-force....
cam is a 495/502 2118/224@.05 lobe separation 110
cam is set up 106 intake centerline cs xr270hr-10 grind
pistons are h618cp hypereutectic
block is decked heads shaved to 62cc chambers
pistons sit .002 down if I remember correctly (Ill check my notes)
peak hp should be about 426@6000 and peak torque about 442@4000
is this the same tire as the sport comp-2? I am looking to replace my 15 inch wheels and step up to the 18's
Still confused on offsets and back spacing though LOL looking at a set of 18x8 +1mm offset and 18x9.5 also +1mm offset.
wheels have 4.5 and 5.25 backspace....Im just afraid it will put the tire to far under the fender
You should just ignore "offset" and deal with backspacing. Again, look online for the conversion chart. There is a ton you can learn on the C3 custom wheel and tire sticky if you look around there.
A lot of guys are using the 18x8 in front with 4.5" backspace. I don't like how they look, too deep in the well. So I found some rims with 4.0" backspace which fits exactly like stock. Less likely to rub the frame too. This limits your wheel choice so good luck. I went with Coys C5. You do not want to use a 1/2" spacer as you won't have enough thread left to bite safely. Although it is possible to install longer lugs to fit a thick spacer, I feel its better to just get the right backspaced rims in the first place.
With the 9.5" rears, 5.0" backspace is optimal IMO. But if you get 5.25" you should be fine and at most you'll need to relocate the parking brake cable mount to the top of the trailing arms. Some minor welding involved. Watch the spring bolts too, they'll be close to the rim even with 18s.
If you really must move the rears out further, even though some folks are fearful of spacers you can safely use "hubcentric" billet spacers no more than .25 to .30" thick and you'll have plenty of lug thread to bolt onto if you get some long reach lug nuts.
Yes you are correct on just using the backspace. I have found some that only will spec out offset.
You just reconfirmed my thoughts on the 4.5 fronts sitting too far in The 5.25 also I feel may sit into far too but, I do have offset control arms??
Yes you are correct on just using the backspace. I have found some that only will spec out offset.
You just reconfirmed my thoughts on the 4.5 fronts sitting too far in The 5.25 also I feel may sit into far too but, I do have offset control arms??
Offset arms, great! The rears should just bolt on with no mods and you won't notice the extra 1/4" inset. So you'll have to strategize your approach up front. Seems like I can find sets of wheels that either fit right in back, or in front, but not both. Yes, you can pay a LOT extra to have AR custom make two of your wheels, but I was able to avoid that during my shopping since my wheel style is so common.
If you find a style that you really love but not in a 4" bs, you only have these options. Live with it (Not my style). Pay for custom casting (good choice since its only two rims). Use a spacer (only as a last resort). Take your time thinking it through. If you end up wanting to run spacers, I have another fifteen minutes of talk for you.
I was happy to find fronts that fit right and then shim the rears a little. Lucky me I guess. I can get pics of the rear but the front is going to be in the air for a while. I'm almost done with suspension upgrade phase III. The final phase.