I'm still dialing in my 427/390 after installing rebuilt heads. For those who have been following, I haven't driven the car back into high rpms yet to see if the new valve springs causes some kind of lifter trouble as previously discussed. No clacking sound now and I adjusted each valve, cylinder by cylinder.

I set the dwell at 30, set the idle rpm at 700, and set the timing at 6 before tdc. I was test driving the car and putting around the neighborhood. Cold, and then warm, enigine runs and sounds fabulous.

I pulled out of the neighborhood and ran moderately through 2nd, 3rd up to 3,000 rpm. After a few moments in 4th, the engine started cutting out like fuel starvation. I eased up, went around the block and duplicated the same run, again with the engine bucking and losing some power in 4th.
I gave it a third try, but going easier so I could go further to O'Reilly's for a fuel pump. No engine bucking this time until I had to climb a small grade.

I installed the new pump, which i alrady figured I needed because I was suspicious of the anti back flow check valve in the pump was failing.

I didn't install a new filter because they didn't have it. I also wasn't too worried about the filter because I have a newer tank.

Examine the in-tank photos i took. Where did the large crap particles come from in my newer tank? (4 years)
The pickup tube has a mesh netting on it and it is brown, but doesnt look dirty. Think I should brush it to see if it is clogged?

I'm going to replace the filters and continue testing.

 

Is there a chance you are using one of those Napa anti drain back carb inlet fuel filters? I had the same fuel starvation problem and it turned out the little ball in the filter inlet was sticking. I tossed it in favor of the normal open end filter and no more problems. I am not the only one who has had a problem with these filters.

 

Hmmm, i dont think so, but I do have a new filter for the carb inlet.
I'll pull the fuel inlet off the carb tomorrow to inspect.
The engine ran very strong prior to the worn head replacement.

 

You questioned where the particles came from but the picture makes it look like your filler neck is full of rust spots?

 

yes, I saw that. I tapped on it and nothing came off and fell into the tank. My car also was in a body shop for quite a while too.
Think it is worth trying to get this crap out of the tank?

I will cut open my existing filter this afternoon when I get home to see if it is full of sediment.

 

It may not be easy to do but I would try to get that stuff out of there which may mean dropping the tank. Even if you drain the tank I would be reluctant to use a shop vac to clean it up because the vapors could hit the electric motor and go boom!

 

Speaking of shop vac......my buddy who owns a shop has a rather simple minded fellow working for him. I've discussed my issue with him and getting the grunge out of the tank. He said he asked his worker to pump the gas out of a tank so he could remove it and the worker used a shop-vac. The shop owner was horrified. No explosions though.

 

You should change your in tank filter sock. Yours look black and is probably clogged. It should be white.

 

didn't know they could be purchased. I'll reach in with my rubber glove on and mess with it a little. How does it attach? I don't see a clip of any sort.

 

If you do have to drop the tank it's not a big deal. I replaced the one on my 72. The only issue was the supports wouldn't go back on but you can buy new ones.

 

If you have a siphon hose you can suck some of it out and into a container. It's a pretty big hole. Light in one hand and hose in the other with an eyeball in the opening.

 

The sock is just crimped on. If you pull the fuel sender you can just pull the sock off and pop on a new one. The debris in your tank is likely coming from the sock becoming brittle. Mine was like yours when I replaced my gas tank and sock. You can siphon out the gasoline and then wipe the inside of the tank with a towel to get out the debris.

 

I'm not able to get my hand through the fuel opening. My wife, well, I didn't bother asking....
I took a long tool and carefully poked and prodded the debris sock. I poked on it enough that I convinced myself it is clear. I was hoping to see a small cloud of sediment disperse from the sock as I squeezed it - nothing.
The photo I posted earlier doesn't show the details of the sock well enough, but I can see the mesh texture very clearly with my eyes.

Additionally, the PO replaced the tank, sending unit, etc. But from user MelWff's suggestion, I examined the filler neck metal and the underside is definitely flaky with rust. Not too bad, however bad enough it is dropping particles.

My new "Between the pump and carb" filter comes today. I'll report back after test driving.

 

Doh! The in-carb filter was recently reinstalled, however, it was installed backwards. The filter thus was restricting gas flow into the carb. Car runs excellent now that I flipped it.

I did cut open the older inline filter and was pleased to see it only looked wet, not impacted with sediment.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

It's always something...at least it ended up being simple.

 

Remember that some gas stations still have metal in ground tanks that are corroded and rusty in the inside, the tanker comes and fills the in ground tank and all that debris gets swirled and suspended in the gas, the gas pumps have check valves not filters and you pump that into your tank.

Also check the inside top of the tank, rust can form up there with this darn reformulated gas

 

If you decide that the debris has to go, you can get a rotary pump that attaches to a drill. The drill is not an issue like on the shop vac since it is external to the pump. You can get a helper to hold the drill and pump while you direct the end of the hose and light. It should get 99% of the stuff out of the tank as it produces a pretty strong vacuum. It would save the tank removal. These type pumps are used in marine applications where you are cleaning out dirty bilge water. They come in different size and capacity.

WEK.