Cleaning Engine - 454 1970
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
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From: London
Cleaning Engine - 454 1970
I am about to put together an engine that has been sitting for a while without intake manifold or oil pan on a stand in my garage (18 months) . Before I do, although it might be overkill I thought it might be a good idea to wash it through, to take out any dust, dirt etc. what should I use steam cleaner, flushing oil, petrol etc. any suggestions welcome.
Paul
Paul
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,105
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From: Sunrise FL
or WD40 on paper towel
For the outside, I use brake cleaner, with the straw. Shoots out grease and grime, dry with paper towels and air.
Last edited by mikem350; Mar 22, 2016 at 11:54 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: rancho cucamonga ca
Just my thought
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Long Island
You don't want water getting into the bearings and oil passages. I like Kerosene and then lube the cylinders, don't forget to spin the oil pump before starting.
plus using Kerosene makes it easier to wait on line at the store..
plus using Kerosene makes it easier to wait on line at the store..
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 118
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From: rancho cucamonga ca
Ok, so are you wiping in and around the crank, rods and etc. Does that get rid of the dirt and grit? I too have a small block that has been sitting with to valve covers or intake and it has a lot of dirt and saw dust on it.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Lubbock TX
I clean all mine with soap and water followed by a very liberal spraying of WD-40. Blow air through any oil passages to help get them dry. Before assembly, I use white lint-free paper towels with tranny fluid and scrub until they come back clean.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Austin TX
You'll need to remove the rotating assembly before cleaning the block.This procedure works well on the block and individual parts. I suggest shop rags instead of paper towels. Also, mineral spirits (paint thinner) will clean better than AT fluid. Respray everything with WD-40 after using a solvent to clean, and wrap it up or bag it right away.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Austin TX
Where in the world did you get that idea? According to the manufacturer:
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
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From: Deep South Denmark
Where in the world did you get that idea? According to the manufacturer:
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It even removes grease, grime and more from most surfaces."
Ten million users can probably also confirm that this is indeed an oil-based lubricant.
But not really an effective lubricant.
Le Mans Master
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To get everything clean it needs to be torn down and wiped with kerosene, mineral spirits, etc. and then WD-40 and bagged. If you use a shop rag to clean it, make sure you do not leave little fuzzies stuck in places.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Long Island
remember wd40 has a preservative a wax type finish when it dries. That is why it gums up locks. The preservative protects the cleaned surface. I would use CRC to clean + kero unless you are going to store it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 16
From: London
The engine was not neglected, it had just been standing in my garage for 18 months as I restored it (more slowly than I thought) guided by much help from the forum members.
I had sealed all the ports and cam with cloth and paper hence had kept all debris out; just as a final step before I reassemble thought I would give it a flush and wipe/brush.
I can say that the kerosene tip was spot on, and this did a really good job......now on moving on to reassembly.
Many thanks to you all.
Paul
I had sealed all the ports and cam with cloth and paper hence had kept all debris out; just as a final step before I reassemble thought I would give it a flush and wipe/brush.
I can say that the kerosene tip was spot on, and this did a really good job......now on moving on to reassembly.
Many thanks to you all.
Paul
Last edited by PBCloud; Mar 26, 2016 at 02:20 PM.
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I'd make sure to prelube it and get oil flushed through everything before starting it.
JIM
JIM