I have bought some moog heavy duty u joints as a replacement. They are the greasable ( needle type of grease fitting in the end of the u joint cap) type I wanted non greasables but they had none in stock. If I install these and never grease them again isnt it the same as having installed a greaseless unit or is there a special need to keep greasing the greasable joints? Seems like they would function just like the greaseless ones. Trying to decide to return them vs use them.

 

Unless you make big HP race or sticky tires
I would not worry about it
It takes a lot to break a u joint
The weak part is where they drill for the fitting

 

Moog refers to it as their SUPER STRENGTH® universal joint. Because the zerk goes in the end of the cap, there really isn't any inherent weakness in the cross.

I installed a set of these a while back on my '73 and just make sure the plug is screwed in the cap. If and when you decide to grease them, just remove the plug and insert a zerk.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

I was wondering while I have the 1/2 shaft out if I removed the spindle hex nut holding the inner wheel bearing flange in place where the 1/2 shaft attaches to, is it possible to replace the inner wheel bearing. Not sure if it can be easily replaced or whether I would need special tools or the removal of the whole spindle assembly. Just figured since I was this far into it it might be doable. any suggestions?

 

Unfortunately you will have to remove the spindle from the hub to access either bearing. There are some special tools necessary, but nothing a good machine shop wouldn't have. To get to the bearings, you'll want to have a press handy to start with.

Do you know if the rear bearings have ever been serviced before? If so. how many miles on the car since they were?

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Non-greaseable Spicers are solid..no grease drillings through them. Done that way for strength. If you're going to hammer on it with any power at all...I'd get them.

Otherwise just use what you have...but grease them. The seals are different. Yours are designed to purge as you grease them. The sealed ones are designed to keep the grease in and keep water etc out better.

JIM

 

Well I think I'll just wait on the bearing job. I dont think they have ever been serviced . the car has about 80 K on it.

 

If they never have been serviced in the 80k miles and it were mine, I would move that job to the top of my list. The time and cost to do this is not inconsequential, but know this, if either of them fail while you're on the road, it will inevitably be very inconvenient and it will cost a lot more.

I bought my '63 in 1969 with less than 30k on it. Before I started driving it full time, I took it to the local Chevrolet dealer that sold it originally, to check things over. One thing I asked them to check was a noise in the rear I heard that I was not familiar with. They called a couple of days later and said it's ready to be picked up. As I paid my bill I asked them about the noise coming from the rear. The service rep assured me it was nothing to be concerned with. That night I must have put a couple hundred miles on it.

The next morning halfway to work the left rear wheel locked up and slid about 50 yards. Needless to say I now had to pay to have the rear bearings serviced. On top of that, I had to pay for two new bearings and an axle, along with the labor to cut the now welded assembly apart. They were however kind enough not to charge me for the tow!

30 k miles in 6 years may be an extreme case to expect a problem, but if it were mine, I would service them at around 50k just for peace of mind. It is not a job that I would suggest for a less than experienced mechanic. It's a job you don't want to do twice and requires a certain level of skill and knowledge along with some specialized tools. The good news is that there a more than a few vendors here on the Forum that do this job daily and it will be good to go for a long time. Get it wrong and it will certainly cost you more time and more money.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Thanks for that input on this .

One thing I am have trouble with on these moog u joints. The center lube screw is in the way of the retaining clip! I didnt notice that until I installed them. have you ever used moog u joints on a c3 or c2 corvette with the spring retaining clips?

 

I have used the retaining clips with U-joints, but I can't recall if they had center lube caps. Have you tried removing the screw to get the clip in place and then reinstalling the center screw?

GUSTO

 

Yes hand the clip is in the way of the hole for the screw. I'm just going to return them and get greaseless ones.

 

Gusto14, I installed the moog super strengths in my 81 for the drive shaft and half shafts but have greased them through the needle grease fitting they include in the box using Mobile 1 full synthetic, it was a little difficult and some of the grease Is lost between the tip of the grease gun needle bearing tool and fitting.

If you can share the size and model type of regular zerk grease fitting and where to find that would be appreciated. I liked the fact these SS moog u-joints are stronger and less prone to the same problem other greaseables have, but if there is a zerk fitting that can be used as a temporary fitting when greasing that is a great idea.

Thanks

 

I just installed a set of these and the ones I bought came with a special clip for the end with the grease fitting.

 

My Moog super strength joints did not come with any special clips just the standard clips. And I have no idea what size needle would be used on them. So that means I'd have the added expense of buying these special items to get them to work on my car. Seems to be more hassle then they are worth.

 

If you have Slotted Thread Flush Type Grease Fittings (SAE Products 1/8" NPTF) like this,


You can pick up one of these (Amazon has them), and grease them through the flush type grease fitting...

* For use with most hand-operated grease guns
* Excellent for use on 4 wheel drive universal CV joints
* Quick connect to standard and heavy duty grease couplers

Or you can pick up some 10-32 thread zerk fittings (Moog item number is 620) and change them out to grease the joints as you would with any other grease fitting. I would try where you picked up the joints first, or a local NAPA store. Apparently they are smaller than the typical zerk fitting and not nearly as common.

Good luck... GUSTO

I do apologize, the fitting listed above, Moog item number is 620, is a flush mounting fitting, the standard zerk you need uses the 10-32 threads,


and is available here, http://www.saeproducts.com/grease-fittings-H1032.html, from SAE Products if you can not find them locally.