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Mineral or synthetic?

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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:12 AM
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Default Mineral or synthetic?

Hello everybody!
I write from Italy, I've just bought a 1969 Corvette with 427 L36 engine.
Before use it I want to change all the liquids so the question:is it better to use old oils and liquids or actual formulations?
F.e. for the engine I found good mineral oils 10-40 and 20-50 but the new syhthetic oils could be better or cause damage?
Maybe some additives are not compatible with old materials?
Similar thing about gear box and axle oil, brake fluid and antifreeze, old or new?

What do you think?

Thanks a lot.

Filippo
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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Suggest you read the "sticky's" on engine oil. I would use synthetics as much as possible provided they're compatible. Example, use of synthetics in the differential will need friction modifiers for the clutches. Same for the manual transmission. I would use DOT 4 for brake fluid and not synthetic. Normal 50/50 mix for antifreeze.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 11:02 AM
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Synthetics. With the provision that it has 1000 PPM of zinc or better for the flat tappet cam.
Just because it's synthetic does not guarantee that it is appropriate for the engine.
If you have access to Mobil 1 0W40 where you are at it is a decent 1000 PPM true synthetic oil. Many other options as well that are flat tappet specific available over the internet.

Gear lube, either is fine. Again, synthetic probably better.

I agree with resdoggie on his recommendations.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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Read the sticky, but I'll add on my old and new motor M1 0W-40 does manage to squeeze in to areas that Valvoline VR1 10W-30 could not.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by masfel
Hello everybody!
I write from Italy, I've just bought a 1969 Corvette with 427 L36 engine.
Before use it I want to change all the liquids so the question:is it better to use old oils and liquids or actual formulations?
F.e. for the engine I found good mineral oils 10-40 and 20-50 but the new syhthetic oils could be better or cause damage?
Maybe some additives are not compatible with old materials?
Similar thing about gear box and axle oil, brake fluid and antifreeze, old or new?

What do you think?

Thanks a lot.

Filippo
Dino oil works just fine, don't pay for the Syn stuff!
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula (1,000 PPM ZDDP) and Walmart carries it in 5 Qt containers for $26.50 (you cannot beat the value here)..if your gaskets are in good shape, you will not have a problem with a true synthetic.

Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 28, 2016 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Synthetics are superior as far as motor oils and transmission fluids are concerned. I like Evans coolant, have used it for years. Who knows, it may save you from having to change a rusted out heater core and rotted carpet.....
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Synthetic will find any weak spots in the seals of your engine, but if your valve seals are up to the task, synthetic is a better product.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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How many miles will you drive it in a year, and, how often will you change the oil?
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 05:26 PM
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I'd like to use the car quite a lot, about 10.000 miles an year. In case of dino oil every 6000 miles as scheduled, but I'd like to use a semisynthetic if possible. I heard that a totally syhnthetic contains too much detergent and additives...
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 05:50 PM
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I heard that a totally syhnthetic contains too much detergent and additives...
The detergents are what keep sludge and contaminants from building up in cracks and crevices. The additive package is different from oil to oil and manufacturer to manufacturer.
These things are necessary for reliable long running engines. If it were possible that your oil would come out clean after 5000 miles then you have a very poor detergent oil indeed. Dirty oil means it's doing it's job via the detergents.

What can happen is you have leaky crusty seals and they have been sealed by the contaminants in the oil taking up space in the leaky spots then you put in a good synthetic detergent oil and it cleans out those crevices after a bit and your seals start leaking. The molecule size of synthetic is consistent vs dino oil. If these molecules are smaller than the dino oil mix then it may leak.
If this happens you can get a seal conditioner to add to the oil which will attempt to soften and swell the seals so that they can seal again.

Oil to oil comparison though, synthetic is superior to dino oil.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by masfel
I'd like to use the car quite a lot, about 10.000 miles an year. In case of dino oil every 6000 miles as scheduled, but I'd like to use a semisynthetic if possible. I heard that a totally syhnthetic contains too much detergent and additives...
I would skip the semisynthetics. Amsoil will go 1 year or 15000 miles and they have a quality filter that will do the same. It will be cheaper than changing dino oil twice per year.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 10:09 AM
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I was just about to try the Mobil 1 Euro. Formula till the last post
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by croaker
I was just about to try the Mobil 1 Euro. Formula till the last post
I run my Mobil 1 in my DD's for 10,000 miles with a filter change at 5,000 miles. Wix filters.
In the vette I don't run 10,000 miles in 5 years so change interval due to mileage is not an issue, just time.
Amsoil is a great oil, I just find it a bit pricey vs Mobil 1 and my 10,000 change intervals for my DD's.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by masfel
I'd like to use the car quite a lot, about 10.000 miles an year. In case of dino oil every 6000 miles as scheduled, but I'd like to use a semisynthetic if possible. I heard that a totally syhnthetic contains too much detergent and additives...
As others have stated, skip the semi synthetic....either go conventional or the superior oil that synthetics are. It defeats the purpose of using a synthetic with the oil molecules exactly the same size if you use a semi synthetic....I am actually surprised anyone is still manufacturing semi synthetics since it is a poor idea as stated above and has been a failure in the retail market, not surprisingly.

The main benefit of a synthetic is oil molecules exactly the same size for superior engine protection...to me the extended oil drain interval is a side benefit but by no means the primary benefit.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 02:53 PM
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I use 10w30 Havoline with a 8 ounces of Lucas zinc additive for oil. DOT 3 for brake fluid. At least a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/coolant and water.
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