Looking for advice Please but here is where I'm at at the moment. ... Getting to the final stages of tinkering for the Old Girls certificate of road worthiness. When I got her, the washer didn't work and though there are topics on the matter, the images have long gone. I have had a good look and everything looks like new, seals are fine and no rubber perish at all. I gave it a bath as there was old grease and bits of dirt behind the plastic cap and I reckon it may be the bullet connectors (blue and yellow) as they were definitely dirty. ... SO ... to my question. (1) Does everything look to be setup properly? (2) Where was it originally greased and oiled? (3) Apparently I need to put an allen key through the hole in the pump body and the four winged gear bellow before reinstalling, how is this best achieved? Thanks in advance

 

the cam, gear, and plunger get greased, I used silicone brake grease last time I did one. the cam just works the plunger, pretty simple setup. the seals inside with the check valves are what generally go bad. you could test it manually before installation to verify, even if the seals look ok they probably don't seal...check Wilcox's site, I would be surprised if he doesn't have a step-by-step for testing those.

 

Hi gungatim and thanks for the reply.
I found a 'how to' on the wiper motor but not a pump at this stage anyway. Cars only done 31,000 miles and the seals were still covered in some form of grease so I'll see how I go for now if I can't test off car. I had a go at twisting and turning everything, as you do , and have set up the sprocket wheel on top so the pin from the plunger shaft is on the right of the high piece underneath, is that correct?

 

yeah like this good link shows (thank Mooser for the pics)
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-assembly.html

 

excellent break down of the Wiper Motor and its grease points.
Now on the pump, this doesn't look promising though (not the same), 180deg out. Maybe Mooser can give me a heads up of correct settings if he is listening.

 

may need to just pull it off and spin it around, motor should be in park position when you assemble the pump cam.

 

Is this the park position for the Pump? Motor has original grease, is in park, works very well and ready to receive Pump.
Cheers AL

PS pin is now on the left of the high piece as mentioned earlier.

 

Has anybody else had experience with these Pumps and their Setup??

 

I finally gave up trying to keep my 71's poorly designed windshield washer pump working so I installed a '78 thru '82 electric pump in the feed line and then used the existing wires of the washer to power the pump. I got the OEM pump for only $12 thru E-Bay and it's one of those "must do" modifications.

The nice thing about using an OEM electric pump is it continues to pump as long as you hold the button in so it'll clean the windshield in about 1/10th the time.

 

That looks like it's in the park position. The pin on the arm should be about 180 degrees opposite the part of the large plastic cam where the recess is to capture the arm (what did I just say???)

Here is the arm in the captured position of the plastic cam (180 out of the park) ignore where it is on the housing as the motor wasn't indexed in the photo, only the plastic gear vs the arm



The pin on the arm should be pretty much point right in the middle of the green module and the capture recess opposite
M

 

IIRC that isn't going to matter much, If anything, the squirt would just happen at the wrong place in the wiper cycle.

The cam under the ratchet gear is what is pumping the pump by loading it up and then letting it snap back. Since that cam is indexed to the 4 pointed star cam on the inside, which is driven off the wiper pin, there is a relationship to when the pump happens as to where the wipers are on the windshield. But I think there's more than one pump per swipe

HIH
M



M

 

Thanks for the reply Mountainoakie ... I'm hearing you my friend, the car is a survivor which may not mean much to ordinary Aussies ... BUT ... there will be someone with a comment at a show if you know what I mean. You can tell it hasn't had much action so I'm going to give it a Red Hot Go for now.

 

Hi Mooser ... where I'm at at the moment is that I am not concerned with the Motor as I started this thread about the Pump but it seems to go off course. What I have done is removed the Pump assembly and found it in very good condition with the exception of the bullet like connectors (Blue, Yellow) which I have given a thorough clean and intend putting some carbon grease on for protection and conductivity.

My question to you and with your experience is ... how would you set this Pump assembly up if you were personally fitting it back on the Motor assembly right now. Would you mind talking me through it as I don't like grinding, banging or pop noises.

You can turn this small gear by hand only till it reaches this position, then with the pump piston exposed, you can push down on the piston to get it over the raised part that it currently is resting against ... Thanks

 

OK, lets give it a try
Short answer

The ratchet gear needs to set all the way down and the little metal tab is what will run along the ramp/cam on the underside of the ratchet gear.
As you said, the pump piston needs to be depressed so the gear can drop all the way down. Yours looks correct. So far so good


The pin from the wiper motor


needs to be positioned into this hole/slot on the pump star shaped cam


In theory, it is supposed to be ably to "find" that position on it's own, mine didn't and I had to turn that star cam to allow it to go in when I married the pump to motor

When the wiper motor is running, the metal ratchet arm


is moving back and forth ALL THE TIME but can't grab the ratchet wheel because the second metal arm right under the electromagnet


sits against the ratchet wheel and holds the ratchet arm out a little so it can't grab the teeth.

When you press the wash button, the electromagnet moves the second arm back, allows the ratchet arm to drop and start grabbing the teeth. The top of the ratchet wheel also has a cam area on it and that keeps the second arm out for an entire turn and then it drops back in place and moves the ratchet arm away from the teeth again.

That cam cut out is here in the 7-8 o'clock area on the ratchet wheel




If your hearing popping etc when the motor is on but not the pump pressed, that second arm isn't set in the right place and it's not keeping the ratcheting arm away from the ratchet teeth. BTW it (the second arm) twists sideways slightly as the ratchet wheel rotates, that's what makes it so confusing to figure out how it lets the ratchet engage/disengage


Does that make any sense at all?

M

 

I have read that you need to put an allen key or something similar through the hole in the body and the cam which are next to each other in this image prior to installing.
WOW! ... Thanks! ... when you explain, you explain! ... and yes that all makes sense and is probably made easier by sitting here with my Pump assembly where I can push this and flick that. I think I will leave the plastic cap off and watch this in action when installed. Simply I just want to know where the second arm is to sit to avoid that popping, where the small geared wheel should sit and I know to put an allen key in the holes, that sort of thing. Thanks heaps for the in depth though

 

If I remember right at all



That tab you see way in the back, horizontal on the second arm is what will end up tucked in front of/under the ratchet arm preventing it from grabbing the teeth..

When the second arm gets pulled up by the electromagnet that horizontal tab lets the ratchet arm fall all the way down like you see here and engage the teeth.

The vertical tab on the same arm then rests against the side barrel of the ratchet gear and get held up until the gear goes around and that tab falls into the missing area on the top of the gear (7 o'clock on previous pic)
At the same time, the vertical tab is riding against the ramp/cam on the side of the ratchet gear and allowed to be pulled sideways as seen by
the shape of the hinge/pivot here.


That is ramp/cam is pulling the first arm out sideways beside the ratchet arm and when it lets go, it slips the horizontal tab back against the ratchet arm and prevents the ratchet arm from grabbing the teeth again.

Or something like that, it's been awhile
M

 

I am still wanting to know where that small gear starts from? (it goes through everything that has been explained very thoroughly and then resets to where???) ... Thanks Guys

 

The small gear (ratchet) is independent and if placed anywhere should ratchet itself around and shut itself off where the little metal tab falls into the gap along the top of the gear and lets the arm under the magnet drop down preventing the ratchet arm from being able to keep moving it.

So in theory you should be able to place it anywhere and it will reset itself.

The 4 point star cam underneath needs to be indexed properly (pin in that one hole)

M

 

Looking, looking, looking ... and BOOM!!!
Check this out ... ... Tab starts and finishes in Gap

This thread should answer quite a few questions if you check out the link as well, you are a Legend Mooser ... and Thanks to others as well.