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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 07:57 PM
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I am fixing to buy a shortblock that ime getting a good deal on and wanted some advice on whether to keep the cam it comes with. Reason i ask is i can get it alittle cheaper without it. The cam is a comp cam xr288 (new). The block is an 880 rollerblock, all forged, 10.5/1 with my afr 195 heads that i already have. Going to change gears to 355 or 373's and plan on keeping my th350. Running 255/60/15's now, 275's on rear soon (not sure if it matters much)Trying to decide to get it with cam or get with chris straub or someone about a custom grind but not sure if a custom cam would be that big of a difference performance wise to justify cost. I know alot more goes into cam choice than what i listed, just asking your opinions. I can always sell it to put towards a custom cam if it makes for a better combo. Thanks.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FLIP77
I am fixing to buy a shortblock that ime getting a good deal on and wanted some advice on whether to keep the cam it comes with. Reason i ask is i can get it alittle cheaper without it. The cam is a comp cam xr288 (new). The block is an 880 rollerblock, all forged, 10.5/1 with my afr 195 heads that i already have. Going to change gears to 355 or 373's and plan on keeping my th350. Running 255/60/15's now, 275's on rear soon (not sure if it matters much)Trying to decide to get it with cam or get with chris straub or someone about a custom grind but not sure if a custom cam would be that big of a difference performance wise to justify cost. I know alot more goes into cam choice than what i listed, just asking your opinions. I can always sell it to put towards a custom cam if it makes for a better combo. Thanks.

For an automatic transmission I recommend a cam with a lot less duration; like 225-230 degrees maximum so you can have enough vacuum to operate power brakes. The XR288 would only be suitable for 4.11 to 4.56 gears and a 3000 rpm stall converter or a 4-speed manual transmission. It's just too much cam for your application.

Last edited by Mountainoakie; Apr 19, 2016 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:20 PM
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You will lose low end performance.

Last edited by babbah; Apr 19, 2016 at 11:38 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Way too much cam for your combination.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:52 PM
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Sorry, thought i put 383 stroked shortblock and looking at a stall in the 2800 to 3000 range also. Even stroked with my heads i was wondering about the duration of that cam being a little too much.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 11:57 PM
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I just put that cam in my 355 ci and I think it is a very good combo . Other have said this was to much cam with no low end but I will disagree . Also running the AFR 195 heads , Vic jr intake and 3000 -3500 stall convertor . Puts a big smile on my face .

This new motor combo now has around 1000 miles since install . Still waiting for local track to open for final 1/4 mile numbers and I think I will be pleased . Also running 3.55 gears and if I was doing rear again I think I would go to 3.73
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gveld
I just put that cam in my 355 ci and I think it is a very good combo . Other have said this was to much cam with no low end but I will disagree . Also running the AFR 195 heads , Vic jr intake and 3000 -3500 stall convertor . Puts a big smile on my face .

This new motor combo now has around 1000 miles since install . Still waiting for local track to open for final 1/4 mile numbers and I think I will be pleased . Also running 3.55 gears and if I was doing rear again I think I would go to 3.73


My cam is way bigger than that and I ve got plenty low end with an automatic ..
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 11:46 AM
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Well ime gonna go ahead and buy it with cam, its just a deal i cant pass on. I think i want talk with straub or someone once i get it and figure out a solid combination that matches my goal to be around that 500 hp mark. If i can get there with something smaller sounds good to me, but ime definately not a cam expert and want to get it right the first time
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 12:48 PM
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Keep the cam it will run good. Those that disagree never had the XR288 in a engine so how do they know how it will run.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Keep the cam it will run good. Those that disagree never had the XR288 in a engine so how do they know how it will run.
Hows your vaccum and idle with that cam?
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FLIP77
Hows your vaccum and idle with that cam?
My idle with 355 ci is 850 rpm in gear jumps to around 1100 out of gear . Vacuum is 9 to 10 inches at 1000 rpm . I thought I may have issues with power brakes and headlights but noticed no difference from 262 flat tappet cam I replaced .
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FLIP77
Well ime gonna go ahead and buy it with cam, its just a deal i cant pass on. I think i want talk with straub or someone once i get it and figure out a solid combination that matches my goal to be around that 500 hp mark. If i can get there with something smaller sounds good to me, but ime definately not a cam expert and want to get it right the first time


I doubt that cam will get you to 500HP
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FLIP77
I am fixing to buy a shortblock that ime getting a good deal on and wanted some advice on whether to keep the cam it comes with. Reason i ask is i can get it alittle cheaper without it. The cam is a comp cam xr288 (new). The block is an 880 rollerblock, all forged, 10.5/1 with my afr 195 heads that i already have. Going to change gears to 355 or 373's and plan on keeping my th350. Running 255/60/15's now, 275's on rear soon (not sure if it matters much)Trying to decide to get it with cam or get with chris straub or someone about a custom grind but not sure if a custom cam would be that big of a difference performance wise to justify cost. I know alot more goes into cam choice than what i listed, just asking your opinions. I can always sell it to put towards a custom cam if it makes for a better combo. Thanks.
Those heads and 550/530 237/241 on a 108 LSA cam will make over 500HP and 500#/ft. Will have over 10" vacuum and run any power options.

The dyno sheet is a 383 with AFR195's


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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by StraubTech
Those heads and 550/530 237/241 on a 108 LSA cam will make over 500HP and 500#/ft. Will have over 10" vacuum and run any power options.

The dyno sheet is a 383 with AFR195's


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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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except, he doesn t have a 383 or that cam ........................................ ........................................ ......................................Ca mshaft Part # 12-433-8 Grind # XR288HR-10
Duration @ 0.006": 288° / 294° Duration @ 0.050": 236° / 242°
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .520" / .540" Lobe Separation: 110°
Lobe ID#'s: 3316 / 3317 Intake Centerline: 106°
Engine Type: Chevrolet 350 Small Block
Bore: 4.040" Stroke: 3.480"
Displacement: 356ci Compression: 9.25:1
Heads: Dart Sportsman II Intake: Edelbrock Victor Jr.
Carburetor: Holley 750 dbl. pmp. Exhaust: 1 3/4" Headers
Max Torque: 385 ft*lbs @ 3700 RPM Max Power: 406 HP @ 6100 RPM
Manifold Vacuum: 9.5" Hg @ 1000 RPM & 12" Hg @ 1200 RPM w/ no load.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 07:05 PM
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The OP has said he is building a 383 strocker . If you look on AFR website they have two builds showing using the 288 cam . One shows 503 hp and the other shoes 530 hp . Booth of these builds also over 517 ft lbs torque . I think it can be done
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 07:31 PM
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The first problem that will surface is the lack of power brakes at idle speeds in DRIVE and the second problem is the cam will be below it's "power band" when the transmission makes it's 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts unless 4.11's or 4.56's are used. Remember, the hotter the cam is the less suitable it is for street use.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fishslayer143
except, he doesn t have a 383 or that cam ........................................ ........................................ ......................................Ca mshaft Part # 12-433-8 Grind # XR288HR-10
Duration @ 0.006": 288° / 294° Duration @ 0.050": 236° / 242°
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .520" / .540" Lobe Separation: 110°
Lobe ID#'s: 3316 / 3317 Intake Centerline: 106°
Engine Type: Chevrolet 350 Small Block
Bore: 4.040" Stroke: 3.480"
Displacement: 356ci Compression: 9.25:1
Heads: Dart Sportsman II Intake: Edelbrock Victor Jr.
Carburetor: Holley 750 dbl. pmp. Exhaust: 1 3/4" Headers
Max Torque: 385 ft*lbs @ 3700 RPM Max Power: 406 HP @ 6100 RPM
Manifold Vacuum: 9.5" Hg @ 1000 RPM & 12" Hg @ 1200 RPM w/ no load.
Yeah that was my bad, meant to post its all forged 383 stroker. Actually the guy ime buying it from based his build off of the combo off the afr website. Not a firm believer in the advertised claims from websites and mags but that combo should come in around those numbers right. Only difference is i will be around 10.5 vs afr combo is 9.5 i think.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FLIP77
Yeah that was my bad, meant to post its all forged 383 stroker. Actually the guy ime buying it from based his build off of the combo off the afr website. Not a firm believer in the advertised claims from websites and mags but that combo should come in around those numbers right. Only difference is i will be around 10.5 vs afr combo is 9.5 i think.
Manufacturer claims are just guidelines.. They are from tests conducted in perfect conditions for the most favorable results.. I do think it will be a strong engine, just not 500 HP.. Just my opinion from dyno testing my own combinations
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by StraubTech
Those heads and 550/530 237/241 on a 108 LSA cam will make over 500HP and 500#/ft. Will have over 10" vacuum and run any power options.

The dyno sheet is a 383 with AFR195's


Is there a big difference between the 108 and 110 lsa with everything else being equal?
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