My bushings are shot. I want to replace the old ones before I get a rear end alignment. I also have to replace the front end tie rods...no biggie.

But what am I getting into when I go about replacing the rear end bushings? I really need to replace the strut bushings and any bushing close to the Trailing arms. I have all the time in the world *for the moment* to tackle this problem. I don't want to go in and find out I'm breaking stuff to take things out and indirectly causing a bushing replacement to become a total rear end replacement. So what am I getting into?

 

The trailing arm bushings will be the biggest problem - if you have any.
Many times these bushings rust and sieze to the bolts. In this case, the
bolts need to be cut or ground off. The trailing arm bolts are the worst, due
to their tight location. Sometimes a torch and penetrating oil will do the trick.
These looked like SO much trouble - I never installed new trailing
arms that I had bought. Still in the box after 2 years.
The strut rod bushings have the same issue.

When I did my strut rods, I cut right through the struts, bushings and bolts.
Then, I replaced them with the VBP adj struts.

You may get very lucky, but be prepared to spend more than the $15 a piece
for the bushings alone. I fact - to renew the strut rods - it's $10 for the
adjuster bolt sets (*2) plus $15 for each bushing (*4). That's $80 - and for
$40 more you get the complete VBP adj strut set (~$120). IMO - a nice
upgrade.

Get the shock mount removal tool - or just a few nuts that fit, to pound out
the shock mounts. I had to buy 1 new shock mount.


:seeya





[Modified by Daves_rusty_75, 3:38 PM 9/5/2002]

 

Greaaaattttt...so far anything and everything bolt wise that has been known by the forum to be a PAIN has come out clean and problem free for me. Lets hope this easy bolt off routine will continue throughout the rear end replacements. So you recommend just getting the adjustable struts from VBP? Where did you get all your parts from? Vette Brakes has a nice set of hardened tie rod ends as well. I guess I'll be ordering 200+ very soon. I wonder if the Vette things I'm rich!! Maybe all the shop cards in my wallet has tricked the Vette into believeing I carry lots of cash! Bad enough he goes through gas like I do Mountain Dew.

 

Use a saws all with a really long blade sold in sears. Cuts through in a couple of minutes! I've done it twice.

 

So are there any kits from Vette Brakes I should order? They have a rear poly conversion kit for 80.00. Any kits I should look at?

 

Anyone?

 

I bought mine from ZIP or Ecklers - but I think everyone carries the adj strut rods.
They come with new bushings in 'em, so you would only need to get the
trailing arm bushings to finish the "alignment" bushings. Optional would be the
differential mount cushions and rear spring cushions. You can see or feel
the "shape" of these without disassembly.
Also, a set of stainless shims for the trailing arm alignment are nice.
It all adds up - so you might consider keeping and re-bushing your strut rods -
especially if they come right out.
A bushing set would save you a few - if you rebuild your old ones.
The polys are usually a bit less than the original rubber ones.

:seeya

 

As long as you are going to drive the car on the street, go with the rubber bushing set and the stock strut rods. If you plan to race it, go poly. Just my $0.02. I used the VB&P poly set and it squeaks now after about 3 years.

Shannon

 

Well at Vette brakes I see a few types of adj. struts. They have a poly version for 219.99 and a regular H.D. Smart strut for 299.99. I'd rather go with the cheaper one. What is the difference between products 52000 and 52100. They look different...as well. Which one should I go with?

219.00 for some adjustables on the expensive side?

What about their heavy duty tie rod ends for 66.00?


[Modified by Phoenix79, 6:25 AM 9/6/2002]

 

TTT

 

If your bushings, rear bearings, side yokes, and differential are in proper shape, you don't need the fancy adjustable strut rods. Ask yourself "what problem am I attempting to solve here?". All the adjustment of the strut rods does is control the amount of camber in the rear. Once you get the camber set, it's a done deal. You'll never touch them again until the next alignment. I know mine is the minority opinion here, but I don't see the need for them in a street driven car. :confused:

Shannon

 

I used the poly trailing arm bushings($60) from Vette Brakes, and the smart struts ($110). that was about 6 yrs ago, so prices have gone up i'm sure. you probably don't need the smart struts if you replace the strut rod bushings, but they sure make life easier for the alignment dude. i also put a 330lb glass spring on mine at the same time i was doing this other work. I was new to all of this then and these were recommendations made to me from other local vette owners, no regrets.

 

Just done it on a 77 with 80k miles. Also replaced my shocks which were "tired". I used Poly bushings as they last much longer than rubber and dont have as much "give". Better handling ??.

Put the car on stands. Wheel off. Use a jack to jack up the disc so all the weight isnt on the shock and strut. Remove bottom shock bolt and slide shock off. This allows you to wiggle the top of the shocks around to help it slip out. (if you dont want new shox. leave top alone.)

Use penetrating oil (I used CRC) and try and work into the joints of the mount as these usually seize on. I got a jack handle 2 1/2 ft long which was perfect and slipped over the mount past the thread where the shock bolt mounted. Before you put it on put a little tape over the threads to prevent the slightest possibility of damage. The handle you use should be a snug fit over the shock mount which is a bigger diameter than the thread.You can then get the mount moving up and down a little and break the seal between the rubber and metal. Then clean the threads of the other securing bolt (with cotter pin) which runs parallel to the centre of the car. Put this bolt on BACKWARDS and make sure its tightened till its flush with the end of the bolt so you have the end of the bolt and the nut presenting a straight edge. Using a coper hammer or a normal hammer with a lump of wood belt the threaded end till it comes thru the strut mount. Hit it HARD. !! It will move. Adjust the nut out and then keep going. The inner mounts are heaps easier. I removed the Centre mount to the diff (4 x 9/16 bolts) which allowed me to slide both sides out together as one unit.
Be prepared to be patient and use lots of CRC as once the seized outer parts are "broken apart" the worst is over. For petes sake dont gas axe the original parts as they are fine once cleaned and powder coated. Unless you have a racing vette stick with the original Chevvy stuff :smash:

 

Thanks for all the information everyone. I have no REAL idea how to replace everything but I'm sure everything said in this thread and in the archives will become clear as I start to do the actual work. Wish me luck and I hope I don't break anything that doesn't need to be broken! :eek:

 

The polygraphite bushings will only squeak when installed incorrectly. I would get the poly conversion kit. Our poly trailing-arm bushings don't need a press to install them in the trailing-arm. You can drill the old rubber bushings out and use the old outer sleeve instead of using a press to put the new outer shells in. You don't have to find a shop with a press. There is a flaring tool in the kit where you just use hand tools to install the bushings correctly. The kit also comes with full instructions. Poly will actually free up the static load of the suspension. If you think about it the rubber is molded to the inside and outside shells thus twisting the bushing when the suspension moves. The poly rotates on the inner sleeve which if lubricated properly will not squeak and will glide smoothly. :yesnod:

 

Can you describe to me what I did incorrectly? I drilled out the old rubber bushings. Then I cleaned up the inner bore of the outer sleeves and installed the poly bushings. I installed the bushings and used the flaring tool on the inner sleeve to hold the outer "washer" in place. All that went smoothly. Then I installed the trailing arm and inserted the bolt and alignemnt shims. After I set the car down and got the suspension loaded, I torqued down the trailing arm bolt. What did I do wrong?

Don't get me wrong, the squeak is VERY minor, but it's still a squeak.

Shannon

 

How well did you grease or lubricate the inner sleeve before sliding it in the bushing? You also have to grease the washer on each end. :yesnod:

 

I have found that even if you do properly lubricate the bushings with "Whale Snot" (Marine water-proof grease) after a couple of years, the bushings will start squeaking. This is when using pure Poly bushings, Poly-Graphite might be different since they are supposed to be self lubricating.

 

Yes, the polygraphite does make a difference. You can also use a marine type wheel bearing grease which will not dry out.