When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sometimes when I get in my '77 and turn the key on, the needle will move very slowly down to zero, and when I start the engine the needle goes up to ~2000 RPM and stays there. Sometimes it goes back to normal within a couple minutes, sometimes it takes a couple days. Is this a board issue? A wiring issue? Any input would be appreciated
I bought a board a while back from a local corvette store but didn't install it because the tach started working again. If I remember correctly, the board failure symptoms described in the instructions that came with it were different than what mine is doing, so that's why I'm not sure what to look into first
Sometimes when I get in my '77 and turn the key on, the needle will move very slowly down to zero, and when I start the engine the needle goes up to ~2000 RPM and stays there. Sometimes it goes back to normal within a couple minutes, sometimes it takes a couple days. Is this a board issue? A wiring issue? Any input would be appreciated
It's estimated that 90 percent of the time it is a board issue. But also check the wiring connection at the distributor. My distrib wire has the safety clip broken off so it will work itself loose. Of course, then it doesn't start so its a "dead" give away the problem.
As you in 77, the while dash must be nearly taken out to get to it...so no easy task. As suggested...check with Wilcox. Here's link to an article on tach issues...dated but still relevant
The plastic clip broke off my signal wire, but i don't think it's an issue with the signal wire because when I disconnect it from the distributor the tach goes to zero (quickly when the tach is behaving, slowly when it's not). I guess I'll just replace the board and see what happens. I got a couple projects I need to do behind the dash anyway. Thanks guys
For people that might find this thread in the future:
I pulled out the tach and hooked it up to a 12v power supply, and had the same issue I described before, so it was definitely the board and not the wiring. I installed the new board and it's good as new.
For people that might find this thread in the future:
I pulled out the tach and hooked it up to a 12v power supply, and had the same issue I described before, so it was definitely the board and not the wiring. I installed the new board and it's good as new.
no it is not easy, your going to have alot of fun pulling that tach, then putting it back in, might as well do bulbs, headlight switch, vent foam, check heat a/c vent flapper with vac tool, rebulb instruments, and console
no it is not easy, your going to have alot of fun pulling that tach, then putting it back in, might as well do bulbs, headlight switch, vent foam, check heat a/c vent flapper with vac tool, rebulb instruments, and console
I pulled the column out this time so it wasn't as difficult as the last time I pulled that side of the dash. I replaced most of the light sockets while I was in there because a couple of the wires broke off of the original sockets last time I had it apart. I get to take it apart again because I've got a few new issues to sort out now... Some of the contacts in the sockets don't touch the bulb, the high beam switch doesn't work when I pull back on the lever, and the ignition switch sticks in the start position. It seems like every time I pull the dash apart to fix one problem, another one comes up