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Old May 1, 2016 | 12:58 PM
  #41  
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I had mine recorded about 9 years ago it's seeping now not enough to cause trouble just its doing it. My thinking was a new one would last me till I'm done
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
Which one did you get? 2 core or 3?
I got the 3-core, IIRC it was <$200 shipped and was pretty quick.

zero issues and money well spent.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Syl1953
For $40.00 more go 3 core. Remember to use distilled water!, Mark
yes definitely distilled water. I believe that is why my original rotted out, alkali water from the dessert, at least that's what the radiator shop said when I tried to get someone to repair the neck and outlet elbow...

as for trimming the mounts, I did not have to, just pushed down the lower mount brackets and widened them a bit with a long prybar. really no big deal.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 07:34 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cardo0
I wanted to suggest just have your original recored. Mine was pretty cheap and was supposed to be a 4 core (what ever that means now). Well all the rad shop does is solder the stock end caps on whole new core. Like a 100 bucks. Don't know what 4 core means now but the recored rad is really thick and heavy.

U may find a original at a bone yard that stocks them - some do and some dont.

Good luck and hope this can help.
+1. I brought mine to the local radiator joint and they had it back in a day.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by cooper9811
The Champion will work fine - I'm running a Champion 3 row with a mild 427 SBC stroker. It runs 185/190 all day and has done so for the last 2 years.

Like Jebby said, you will need to trim the rubber mounts, they wont be a "perfect" fit between the rad and support. It should drop right in otherwise. And it's a much more cost effective approach than dropping $500 on a rad the may not need the rubber bushings trimmed.

um, actually the dewitts I bought calls for special rubbers sold by dewitts which were not included with my radiator and I wasn't told I would need until later on....surprise

I'm not snubbing Dewitt's just saying this is a very minor issue given a potential $300 price difference. The quality of the Champion Rad I bought is pretty good - no ugly/bad welds, no fitment issues other that trimming rubber bushings. It is no more likely to fail than any other radiator I have priced and considered.
But I am jealous of your stroked 427 but that is a whole other subject....
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Old May 1, 2016 | 10:38 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
But I am jealous of your stroked 427 but that is a whole other subject....
Thanks - There are a couple users on this forum will tell you (and have told me in some inconsiderate terms) that I am under-headed and under-cammed, because I didn't build it to turn up to 7000 RPM with massive runners on the heads and a solid roller cam.

The bottom end is certainly capable, but I went with a mild to moderate combination that peaks between 5500 and 6000. My choices were driven by a desire to have a large cubic inch stroker that was very street friendly and mild mannered, but with torque from idle to redline and will still make you pucker - I am still tuning and tweaking the fuel mixture, but I am happy with it.

Sorry for the hijack.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 08:33 AM
  #47  
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I was considering having my stock radiator re-cored but their are only a few shops in my area that do it and the price is $150+. For $50 more I could get a brand new 3 core Champion aluminum radiator. I am going for the 3 core which is Champion # CC718. The only potential issue I see is the thickness of the core. Its 2.5". My factory stock core is 2" thick. Since I am using my stock radiator shroud I am concerned it won't fit in the bottom clips correctly since it fits very tight against the bottom of my stock radiator that is 2" thick. They also have the American Eagle brand which is a 2 core but with 1" tubes. That one has a thickness of 2.25" which is closer. Both radiators report cooling up to around 700hp. Considering I have a stock L48 I would think either one is fine. The American Eagle is 2 core is a little less expensive than the Champion 3 core. Decisions decisions!!
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jgcable
Funny... I was told that if I ask a question about a new radiator I would get slammed by Dewitts users! I do appreciate Dewitt and how they chime in and answer questions and are USA made but I can't swing $500-$600 for a radiator. I have a specific budget for this car and that kind of money is not in it. I need to be in the $200 range. Champion has 2 core aluminum for $160 delivered and 3 core for $200 delivered. I just need to find out which one is the best choice for a direct fit in my stock 77 L48 4spd. I don't have AC, I don't even have heat. Its just a stock SBC. Even my leaking 37 year old stock radiator keeps the motor at 180 for over an hour of driving. I am using my stock clutch fan and stock radiator shroud. I could probably get by with the stock plastic/aluminum radiator that Auto Zone has in stock right down the street from me for $160 but I really don't want to use plastic. I would prefer aluminum because I like the way it looks. I am not concerned about cooling performance on a 200hp SBC!!! 180 degrees is fine for me.
It sounds like you already had your mind made up.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:29 AM
  #49  
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The 3 radiators I narrowed down to are...
Champion CC718 3 row $228.00 shipped
Champion EC718 2 row with 3/4" tubes $176.00 shipped
American Eagle EC718 2 Row with 1" tubes $201.00 shipped

Keeping in mind my motor is a stock L48 with headers. 4 speed tranny, no AC, no heat, no smog pump and its obviously not a race car. I am using the stock clutch fan and stock radiator shroud. Its a very cool running motor and it generally runs at 180 degrees all the time even with a 37 year old seeping radiator! All three of these new aluminum radiators are rated at between 600HP and 700HP. That's a "little" more HP than my stock L48 pumps out! lol...
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Old May 2, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
It sounds like you already had your mind made up.
I had a good idea of what I was going to get. Champion has been around for a long time and I have no problem using one of their radiators. The cost is in my budget too. I did consider the USA made brands but I can't justify 3 times the price on a radiator for a stock SBC. Back in the old days I wouldn't even have considered a new radiator. I would have just pinched off the leak and soldered it. Back in the very old days a rock went through the radiator of my 65 Coronet 500 and I didn't have the money to repair it or get one from the junkyard so I connected the upper and lower radiator hoses together and drove around for at least a week until I could get one from the junkyard that didn't leak. Not much difference between then and now. Its just a 200hp SBC. I don't even have to worry about cooling the tranny because its a 4spd.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 10:46 AM
  #51  
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I just installed a 2 core Champion in my 75 4-speed convertible/no ac. and I am happy with it. Install was not bad. Had to get creative with foam to fill the support area, but $8.00 in the widow ac department at the big box store took care of that. My car is running around 180-190 all the time.

Just a few recommendations to make the job easier, you can take them or leave them: first remove hood, mark the hinge position on the the hood and remove bolts from hinge to hood.(have a helper) Second remove fan, I removed water pump also due to repainting. I found it easier to remove outer shroud, then enter shroud, core frame and radiator as one piece. (nice to have help to remove.)

On install, assemble everything together and drop in. (nice to have help)Only 3 bolts on each side and two on bottom. Install lower hose first.

Good luck. Few are a few pictures of my radiator install.
Attached Images     
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:47 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by LRB
I just installed a 2 core Champion in my 75 4-speed convertible/no ac. and I am happy with it. Install was not bad. Had to get creative with foam to fill the support area, but $8.00 in the widow ac department at the big box store took care of that. My car is running around 180-190 all the time.

Just a few recommendations to make the job easier, you can take them or leave them: first remove hood, mark the hinge position on the the hood and remove bolts from hinge to hood.(have a helper) Second remove fan, I removed water pump also due to repainting. I found it easier to remove outer shroud, then enter shroud, core frame and radiator as one piece. (nice to have help to remove.)

On install, assemble everything together and drop in. (nice to have help)Only 3 bolts on each side and two on bottom. Install lower hose first.

Good luck. Few are a few pictures of my radiator install.
Thanks for the pics. Mine is a 77. It doesn't have AC and its a 4spd so I was able to remove the original radiator and radiator shroud in 10 minutes after draining the radiator and removing the clutch fan. I didn't have to remove the hood. 6 bolts on the top (4 for the metal/rubber arms that hold the radiator in place and 2 for the radiator shroud). Upper and lower radiator hoses. that's it. The lower hose is easy to access on my car. I think I will need to modify the rubbers for the upper and lower mounts (2 in the lower tray and 2 in the upper arms) but that's no big deal.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:50 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by gungatim
yes definitely distilled water. I believe that is why my original rotted out, alkali water from the dessert, at least that's what the radiator shop said when I tried to get someone to repair the neck and outlet elbow...

as for trimming the mounts, I did not have to, just pushed down the lower mount brackets and widened them a bit with a long prybar. really no big deal.
Or you could use Evans which is a waterless coolant and eliminate corrosion and skip the flushes and coolant changes.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 12:02 PM
  #54  
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Evans has its pros and many cons while some love it just because the average car person will do just fine with far Cheaper 50/50 premix that many top names like DeWitt recommend ...
I erge people not to take one or two opinions on Evans but rather do an unbiased net Researching of it
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Old May 2, 2016 | 12:13 PM
  #55  
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On a SBC I generally just buy a gallon of the 50/50 premixed Prestone yellow container and poor it in.... let it warm up and when it cools off... top it off with either more 50/50 or some water from the garden hose. Haven't had a problem with a cooling system in 39 years. Not a bad run I would say.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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I ordered the American Eagle (Champion) AE718 from Jegs which is the 2 row with 1" tubes. They advertise it as the heavy duty version of the economy EC718 Champion which is also 2 row but with 3/4" tubes. It was only $15 more so I splurged! It was $201 shipped.
It should work with my stock radiator shroud fine. When I get it, install it and test it out I will give a full review. If its junk or if there are any issues you guys will hear about it. Thanks for all the advise and info. It was very helpful.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
On a SBC I generally just buy a gallon of the 50/50 premixed Prestone yellow container and poor it in.... let it warm up and when it cools off... top it off with either more 50/50 or some water from the garden hose. Haven't had a problem with a cooling system in 39 years. Not a bad run I would say.
50/50 is great for most people out there, you do not however wanna top it off with hose or tap water because it has all kinds of funk that just isn't happy in an aluminum radiator, you can run distilled OR reverse osmosis which is basically what we see labeled "drinking water" that isn't spring water.
I have a RO filter set up on my home water, I wont even drink tap water or give it to my pets.

Originally Posted by jgcable
I ordered the American Eagle (Champion) AE718 from Jegs which is the 2 row with 1" tubes. They advertise it as the heavy duty version of the economy EC718 Champion which is also 2 row but with 3/4" tubes. It was only $15 more so I splurged! It was $201 shipped.
It should work with my stock radiator shroud fine. When I get it, install it and test it out I will give a full review. If its junk or if there are any issues you guys will hear about it. Thanks for all the advise and info. It was very helpful.
you do not wanna know how many times more I got silly and paid for mine that is like yours,
I believe it will cool your car great but do look forward to a full review....
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:43 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jgcable
I ordered the American Eagle (Champion) AE718 from Jegs which is the 2 row with 1" tubes. They advertise it as the heavy duty version of the economy EC718 Champion which is also 2 row but with 3/4" tubes. It was only $15 more so I splurged! It was $201 shipped.
It should work with my stock radiator shroud fine. When I get it, install it and test it out I will give a full review. If its junk or if there are any issues you guys will hear about it. Thanks for all the advise and info. It was very helpful.
I am doing the same thing with basically the identical car except with a/c and autmatic and have been watching this thread. I was leaning towards the one you ended up choosing but am curious as to the difference in 2 row or 3 row. Pardon my ignorance on the radiator workings but if 2 row and 3 row are the same dimensions are they not cooling at the same rate? I dont have a temp problem now but I dont want to give myself one either.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by danh77
I am doing the same thing with basically the identical car except with a/c and autmatic and have been watching this thread. I was leaning towards the one you ended up choosing but am curious as to the difference in 2 row or 3 row. Pardon my ignorance on the radiator workings but if 2 row and 3 row are the same dimensions are they not cooling at the same rate? I dont have a temp problem now but I dont want to give myself one either.
I went with the 2 row for 3 reasons.
Reason #1. I believe the revered Dewitts radiator is a 2 row with 1" tubes.
Reason #2. According to the Champion website the economy 2 row with the 3/4" tubes is good to 400hp motor. That is a VERY popular radiator and there are thousands of posts of satisfied customers using that radiator in their hot rods. The 3 row Champion is good to 750hp.
If you go with Champions American Eagle brand the 2 row with the 1" tubes is good for 700hp. They call that their heavy duty radiator. I like the words heavy duty! That means to me its a very efficient 2 row radiator and it must be basically an import copy of the Dewitts. It would be smart for them to have a functional = to the USA made Dewitts or Becool brands.
Reason #3. My stock radiator has a 2" thick core. I wanted to stay around that thickness. The 2 row American Eagle is 2.25". Should be perfect.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
On a SBC I generally just buy a gallon of the 50/50 premixed Prestone yellow container and poor it in.... let it warm up and when it cools off... top it off with either more 50/50 or some water from the garden hose. Haven't had a problem with a cooling system in 39 years. Not a bad run I would say.
So the mix is not 50/50 if you top it off with water. That would make a difference where I live, but I can't argue with a 39 year record. FWIW you could try a sacrificial anode with the distilled water.
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