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Ticking engine noise - please help!

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Old May 16, 2016 | 06:45 PM
  #41  
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I just chased down a clicking noise on my 78 pace car L-82. Thought it was a lifter turned out to be a ignition wire melted against header and spark was jumping causing ticking noise.
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Old May 16, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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People here seem to be chasing piston wrist pin and or spark jump..... I really don't know if your motor was assembled with stockish type pressed in pins with spring locks or the high end forging with floating bronze bushed wrist pins and spiral locks.

I have not built lots of motors in my life time compared to mechanics at a motor machining shop. But do to the fact that you have a lower rpm BBC I have not ever seen wrist pin failure.

Forged pistons have a greater piston to bore clearance because of piston thermal expansion. IT MIGHT ACCOUNT FOR THE PROBLEM DECREASING WITH ENGINE TEMP.

Why it is related to cylinder # 3 is a mystery being so far away. I've listened to motors through a long screw driver and a stethoscope You have to find out if it is in the block or the heads.


I had piston and ring failure that sounded like rod knock in one of my motors. The clue was that it had good oil pressure. Rod bearing failure has decreased oil pressure
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:59 AM
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Hey!
The motor was rebuilt times ago. I checked this since exchanging the cam. How can I figure out if I have forged pistons? If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in?

Günther
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Old May 18, 2016 | 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Günther-C3
Hey!
The motor was rebuilt times ago. I checked this since exchanging the cam. How can I figure out if I have forged pistons? If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in?

Günther
If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in? How can I determine which pistons I have?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Günther-C3
If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in? How can I determine which pistons I have?
You can't determine what kind of piston you have by looking at the bottom of them. I have some forged pistons on the shelf and they don't have anything printed on them as to what they are
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Old May 18, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #46  
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That is what I have feared.
So the only way will be to pull the piston, right? But after that, how can I determine if it is good or bad?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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Look at the top, ring lands, skirts youll know
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Old May 18, 2016 | 02:29 PM
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Thank you all!
I will let you know how it goes on.....

Best regards, Günther
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Old May 19, 2016 | 06:22 AM
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This boroscope will fit through the spark plug holes:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KV669...767431_TE_dp_1

You may be able to see the numbers on top of the piston with it.

/Karsten

Last edited by Danish Shark; May 19, 2016 at 06:23 AM.
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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That´s a great idea!
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:00 AM
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And you can see the cylinder walls as well. Look for vertical scraping/ gouging
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Old May 19, 2016 | 01:00 PM
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I understand it's hard to get accurate sound on a laptop. That sound, to me, doesn't sound like the ticking you'd hear with an exhaust leak. It does sound like valvetrain or something else that would create more of a clacking sound. It would be quick and easy to pull the driver's side valve cover to see if anything is wrong on #3. Have you checked under there yet?
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Old May 19, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by gkull
People here seem to be chasing piston wrist pin and or spark jump..... I really don't know if your motor was assembled with stockish type pressed in pins with spring locks or the high end forging with floating bronze bushed wrist pins and spiral locks.

I have not built lots of motors in my life time compared to mechanics at a motor machining shop. But do to the fact that you have a lower rpm BBC I have not ever seen wrist pin failure.

Forged pistons have a greater piston to bore clearance because of piston thermal expansion. IT MIGHT ACCOUNT FOR THE PROBLEM DECREASING WITH ENGINE TEMP.

Why it is related to cylinder # 3 is a mystery being so far away. I've listened to motors through a long screw driver and a stethoscope You have to find out if it is in the block or the heads.


I had piston and ring failure that sounded like rod knock in one of my motors. The clue was that it had good oil pressure. Rod bearing failure has decreased oil pressure
sounds like piston slap
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Old May 20, 2016 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Les
I understand it's hard to get accurate sound on a laptop. That sound, to me, doesn't sound like the ticking you'd hear with an exhaust leak. It does sound like valvetrain or something else that would create more of a clacking sound. It would be quick and easy to pull the driver's side valve cover to see if anything is wrong on #3. Have you checked under there yet?
Yes I have. Valve cover is off and valve train is ok (and complete new).
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Old May 20, 2016 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bellaireroad
sounds like piston slap
Can I check "piston slap" with testing the compression?
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Old May 20, 2016 | 03:28 PM
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I don't even own a compression tester. IMO they are pretty worthless. But leak down testers can actually tell you the health of each cylinder.

I was recently testing my motor.




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Old May 22, 2016 | 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bellaireroad
sounds like piston slap
I think so too. However, just to be sure, I would inspect the rod bearings on #3 before pulling the piston. If the bearings look OK, it's time to bite the bullet and pull 'er out. It will probably be obvious what's going on.
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To Ticking engine noise - please help!

Old Jun 3, 2016 | 04:31 PM
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Hello!
Here we go! I got the endoscope and now I could watch through the spark plug hole.

Pic #1 and #2:
at the piston bottom I can see a sign, or a letter. It looks like a "L" or something similar. Who know what this is?





Pic #3 and #4:
I see scratches at the cylinder wall. Is this critical or "normal"?





Pic #5 and #6:
Do I see the top dead center?





Here a video:

So what do you think? Is the cylinder done and do I have to rebuild the engine? New pistons with 0,03" over?

Or do you think the cylinder looks like "normal" and I can drive it the next years?

And last but not least, do you see the source of the "ticking noise"?

Regards, Günther
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #59  
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Images like these can be deceptive. It's difficult for someone who can't move the scope around to get a sense of depth or scale. Nevertheless, the marks just above the piston in photo nos. 3 and 4 look like they might qualify as light gouging, not just scratches. If you agree with that, based on what you see in person, you'll need to pull the piston for inspection. The skirt will tell you more about condition and wear. Pulling the piston will also give you a chance to inspect the rod bearing for that cylinder. Be sure to note exactly how everything is installed so it can be reassembled the exact same way if wear is acceptable.
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Old Jun 5, 2016 | 06:40 AM
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Today I checked out cylinder #1.
What I see is a crater, wtf is that and what causes such a crater???



Then I discovered a "R" in the valve pocket. What does this mean?

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