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I just chased down a clicking noise on my 78 pace car L-82. Thought it was a lifter turned out to be a ignition wire melted against header and spark was jumping causing ticking noise.
People here seem to be chasing piston wrist pin and or spark jump..... I really don't know if your motor was assembled with stockish type pressed in pins with spring locks or the high end forging with floating bronze bushed wrist pins and spiral locks.
I have not built lots of motors in my life time compared to mechanics at a motor machining shop. But do to the fact that you have a lower rpm BBC I have not ever seen wrist pin failure.
Forged pistons have a greater piston to bore clearance because of piston thermal expansion. IT MIGHT ACCOUNT FOR THE PROBLEM DECREASING WITH ENGINE TEMP.
Why it is related to cylinder # 3 is a mystery being so far away. I've listened to motors through a long screw driver and a stethoscope You have to find out if it is in the block or the heads.
I had piston and ring failure that sounded like rod knock in one of my motors. The clue was that it had good oil pressure. Rod bearing failure has decreased oil pressure
Hey!
The motor was rebuilt times ago. I checked this since exchanging the cam. How can I figure out if I have forged pistons? If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in?
Hey!
The motor was rebuilt times ago. I checked this since exchanging the cam. How can I figure out if I have forged pistons? If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in?
Günther
If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in? How can I determine which pistons I have?
If I remove the oilpan, can I see which pistons (forged or stock) are in? How can I determine which pistons I have?
You can't determine what kind of piston you have by looking at the bottom of them. I have some forged pistons on the shelf and they don't have anything printed on them as to what they are
I understand it's hard to get accurate sound on a laptop. That sound, to me, doesn't sound like the ticking you'd hear with an exhaust leak. It does sound like valvetrain or something else that would create more of a clacking sound. It would be quick and easy to pull the driver's side valve cover to see if anything is wrong on #3. Have you checked under there yet?
People here seem to be chasing piston wrist pin and or spark jump..... I really don't know if your motor was assembled with stockish type pressed in pins with spring locks or the high end forging with floating bronze bushed wrist pins and spiral locks.
I have not built lots of motors in my life time compared to mechanics at a motor machining shop. But do to the fact that you have a lower rpm BBC I have not ever seen wrist pin failure.
Forged pistons have a greater piston to bore clearance because of piston thermal expansion. IT MIGHT ACCOUNT FOR THE PROBLEM DECREASING WITH ENGINE TEMP.
Why it is related to cylinder # 3 is a mystery being so far away. I've listened to motors through a long screw driver and a stethoscope You have to find out if it is in the block or the heads.
I had piston and ring failure that sounded like rod knock in one of my motors. The clue was that it had good oil pressure. Rod bearing failure has decreased oil pressure
I understand it's hard to get accurate sound on a laptop. That sound, to me, doesn't sound like the ticking you'd hear with an exhaust leak. It does sound like valvetrain or something else that would create more of a clacking sound. It would be quick and easy to pull the driver's side valve cover to see if anything is wrong on #3. Have you checked under there yet?
Yes I have. Valve cover is off and valve train is ok (and complete new).
I think so too. However, just to be sure, I would inspect the rod bearings on #3 before pulling the piston. If the bearings look OK, it's time to bite the bullet and pull 'er out. It will probably be obvious what's going on.
Images like these can be deceptive. It's difficult for someone who can't move the scope around to get a sense of depth or scale. Nevertheless, the marks just above the piston in photo nos. 3 and 4 look like they might qualify as light gouging, not just scratches. If you agree with that, based on what you see in person, you'll need to pull the piston for inspection. The skirt will tell you more about condition and wear. Pulling the piston will also give you a chance to inspect the rod bearing for that cylinder. Be sure to note exactly how everything is installed so it can be reassembled the exact same way if wear is acceptable.