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I called a up a local performance work machine shop and got an estimate on a complete rebiuld of my my motor and stroking it to a 383 with forged pistons, he said about $2,000-2,500. I could spend more, depending on what I want I want to add to the list, this price includes everything, even the forged pistons, which is the only extra I've added to the list so far. Is this a fair price and is there any other "extra's" I should add to the list?
If your planning on spending that much $, and your not going to rebuild it yourself, you might want o look into getting a crate?
Edit - If you do.... Your probably going to want ARP (bolts) everything, new bearings and stuff.
Edit - I hate when people bring up the crate idea:blueangel: , but so fare..its been tempting for me
Hard to say without knowing the make and quality of components that he is putting in as well as what machining is being done to your block. I have seen Eagle complete 383 stroker kits selling for $749 US, or he could go with Scat crank, and higher quality pistons and rods etc. than what comes with that kit. All that I can say is that after going through the same thought process as you last winter, I opted to trust a fellow forum member and basically follow him blindly, as he has a proven track record in building hi po. high quality engines. You could email him and see what kind of deal he will give you ie. consulting fee or complete build-up. MountainMotor - chracing@hotmail.com His web site is in a work in process at this point so he is using this email for now. Best of luck and keep us informed.
Dont' worry, the bearings and everything will be done, switching to a 4 bolt main and the motor will be balanced also. When I said everything was included I meant everything top to bottom, no cylinder head work though, since I'll be adding a set of Trick Flow heads later on.
gdh--- yes, he said he will use a Scat crank
i would be the kit and have them install it. go the a place like : www.theengineshop.com and get a really nice kit. then have them put that in so you know what your getting. should only be about 500-600 to put it together.
I checked out that site and the 383 was listed for drag race only and had a non pump gas friendly 12:1 compression, which I don't need for a street motor. , for $1800 though, it's not a bad deal at all. They also said you can use 72cc heads and have 11:1 compression, but I'm still not sure if I want it that high for street driving, I wanted to stay at about 10:1. What is the highest you can run on 93 octane?
Someone told me or I read somewhere that 9.5 or 9.7/8 is about the highest you want to go on 93 pump gas. I have 10.5 but I add 5 gallons of VP C12(108 octane) to each tank and it runs nice.
Thanks, that's what I figured and why I didn't want to go above 10.0:1, Trick Flow says "about 10:1" with those heads, so I figure it's probably rounded up a little.
I called a up a local performance work machine shop and got an estimate on a complete rebiuld of my my motor and stroking it to a 383 with forged pistons, he said about $2,000-2,500. I could spend more, depending on what I want I want to add to the list, this price includes everything, even the forged pistons, which is the only extra I've added to the list so far. Is this a fair price and is there any other "extra's" I should add to the list?
for $2500 are you suppling the block? or are the building the whole shibang?
Thanks, that's what I figured and why I didn't want to go above 10.0:1, Trick Flow says "about 10:1" with those heads, so I figure it's probably rounded up a little.
I saw this info a while ago on the forum, I believe that with aluminum heads you can go a little higher on compression since they dissapate heat better and from what I recall 10:1 was the number for them.
I went 10.5 to 1 with TRW lightwieght pistons and 70cc Edelbrock Aluminum heads. Should be fine for the street. General rule of thumb you can go one point higher in compression with aluminum heads. Although this generalization will probably get me flamed :lol:
Another thing is, should I stroke the original block or buy another block? Probably a used one if I do buy one. Is the original block really worth saving in a '77? I know it makes a big difference in the early sharks but haven't really heard of anyone not buying a late shark beacause it didn't have the original block.
Ryan, I would probably use a 4 bolt main to start if you can. As for the value of saving a 77 block, I wouldn't worry about it. I have not checked my compression, but the LT-1 is advertised as 11:1 and I run pump gas. The best I can get is 91 octane. The car runs fine. Stop and Go traffic is no fun.
A properly reworked 2bolt to 4bolt conversion will be as strong or stronger than an original 4bolt setup. I've been looking at the GM Ht383 short block as a jumping off point for my buildup. It's about $2700 by itself.