Quick Question:

That horseshoe Ring (yellow arrow): How do we remove it without damaging the plastic tabs right next to it?

Thanks much.
Steve

 

Hi Steve-

You'll need a tool to do this.. it's available at most of those import tool places for not much money too. Once installed it will push the lower plate and the lower plastic contact downward so the U clip can be removed.

Go to this link and then to page 4 and 5 and you'll see one in figure F-3 G-1 and H-1

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...lumn-pictures/

And if you have a tele column you'll need to make a lock bolt shown on page 5 figure G-2

Willcox

 

Thank you Ernie! I can now proceed.



Don't laugh too hard. It does work.

Steve

 

And BTW, I'll be ordering one of these Ernie, and I'm betting a few other things related, as I dive deeper into this T/T Steering Column.



Steve

 

Yeh.. those things are always ate up when we go inside.

That's one cool press you made... I never laugh at home made... We make tools all the time vs. trying to find/buy them. We made a wrench the other day for going inside the front cross-member and holding the nuts while you take the lower bumperette bracket loose from it... I'll go to yard sales and buy junk imported wrenches to have around for making these special tools.. they make the best doner wrench you can find and with minimal cost.

 

You got that right Ernie!

Speaking of tools, was gonna buy a Pivot Pin Puller from Snap-On, but was anxious to get it done.

Doesn't every wannabe-mech have one of these cheap Puller Kits?



It came with an End Attachment just perfect for an 8-32 Screw/Washer and it took just a few strokes to remove those Pins.



Creativity Scale low compared to your cut/welded creations Ernie I'm sure, but it helped me out today.

Steve

 

How does this tilt U-joint separate?



Parts diagram shows a clip. Where is it?

Thanks in advance.
Steve

 

The clip is inside the spheres, you just rotate them out of the shafts and you'll find the clip. Just work it side ways and rotate it out. Clip is a tension spring that takes up the end play.

Ernie

 

Thanks Ernie.

I meant to reply with what I found.

This is easier if you can remove the shaft, then...



...just a turn as shown.



This is the clip.



Will grease it all up before installation.

Steve

 

How far are you going? What are you looking for? One major issue is the four bolts (circled below) in the collar retainer... They work loose over time. We loctite them in place and I believe the torque is 10 in lbs. I'll have to check.

If you are going this far, make sure the upper mast jacket is not torn... You can see in the pictures below how they can tear. This is usually caused by the bolts being loose for a long time and when they are loose the column will wobble all over the place.

 

Wow! Thanks for the pictures.

I had some up & down play in this Tilt/Telescopic Steering Wheel, as well as what I thought was a collapsed shaft (the rag joint didn't "bite" enough shaft). It's as good a time as any to investigate with the paint job going on.



As far as I can see, things look fairly good.



But where I believe the play might be coming from is in these dented areas, where tilt support bars (I call 'em) contact the housing. Not sure how I can fix this pot metal casting.



Steve

 

This is just my theory folks. I'm new at this.

I don't know what's on the inside, making contact with the collapsible lower shaft: a nylon button, tip, etc.?? I wish I knew.


Unless I'm mistaken, these Lower Bearing race marks show a shift of the lower shaft.


I marked the position I first found the shaft at in the upper shaft. Then I put a Crescent wrench on it and hammered it down to a length equal to the lower bearing race shift markings.


I believe the shaft will now reach the rag joint sufficiently and make the Steering Shaft to Steering Box Shaft union proper and safe. Hopefully.

History of this car is unknown. The patched front fiberglass clip I noted in my painting thread here, and the larger-than-normal amount of A-Arm Shims needed for front wheel alignment (but it does drive beautifully straight) all indicate previous front end damage.


Steve

 

Steve.. The shaft was collapsible and had a sheer pin in it from the factory. This kept the main shaft (in most cases) from harpooning the driver in a frontal accident.

So possibly the car was wrecked (or column) at some point.

Also.. are you sure the teeth are not the issue in the locking mechanism..

Some sound advice to you is to contact Jim Shea and give him this thread. I'm the jack of all Corvette trades and the master of none.. Jim is the master of steering columns. I did a video on how to rebuild a C3 tilt column but I've not published it yet... But Jim is the resident expert so if you do a search for C3 Steering columns you'll surely find where he commented on something.. then send him a PM. I think most of his papers have a email address too.

Ernie

 

Thank you Ernie.
I've been refering to his posted pdf's on column rebuild and they're great indeed.
I'll do that, pm the man and give him the thread for comment.

Steve

 

I have had some family issues lately and have not been as attentive to this forum as I have been in the past. For the most part people like Willcox (and others) have been very correct and helpful in their comments, pictures, and answers.

I can see the slow migration of knowledge from hard copy papers (like I have written over the last 20 years) to videos. At 73, I will not be following the migration.

Here is a link to three papers concerning the disassembly and repair of a C3 T&T steering column.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004

I might suggest D&R paper #3 for several suggestions.
Since you have the steering shaft out of your car, you can perform a slump test (page 8)

Also you might check that the clocking of the upper shaft to the lower shaft is correct when you reassemble your steering shaft (page 9). As well as the design length of the end of the lower shaft to the centerline of the yoke at the upper end (31 inches).

One other comment, this time about the C-clip and the plastic (disintergrating) retainer. First of all, the c-clip is a critical safety part. If it disengages the upper steering shaft, you will find that the entire steering wheel, strg shaft, and steering wheel hub can be pulled completely out of the column (even while driving down the road!!!)

The c-clip is only a sliding fit to the upper shaft. So without the plastic retainer it is possible for that clip to migrate out of engagement. That plastic retainer also acts as an insulator and prevents the big telescope spring from touching metal steering column parts and causing the horn to blow continuously.

Jim

 

Awesome information from everyone here. I wanted to give everyone a thanks vote but looks like it's gone now from the icons/options. Really a weak spot for Corvette owners that no one offers a comprehensive column rebuild service. Steve is ready for business now. Keep it coming Steve.