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Bleeding brakes

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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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Default Bleeding brakes

I'm power bleeding the brakes on my 69 vette. When the fluid first starts draining, it's more solid but the longer I let the power bleeder go, it just starts suckin air. Could there be that much air in the line or am I missing some air leak somewhere? Help please, thanks.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Vetty 69
I'm power bleeding the brakes on my 69 vette. When the fluid first starts draining, it's more solid but the longer I let the power bleeder go, it just starts suckin air. Could there be that much air in the line or am I missing some air leak somewhere? Help please, thanks.
I would suspect a leak, bubbles should be large to start,
and dimension in size and quantity, over time.
which could be a caliper piston seal,
especially if you still have the older style caliper piston seals.
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Old May 27, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
I would suspect a leak, bubbles should be large to start,
and dimension in size and quantity, over time.
which could be a caliper piston seal,
especially if you still have the older style caliper piston seals.
Is the answer to replace calipers? I just replaced the rear calipers, haven't gotten to front calipers yet. But front and rear brakes have separate reservoirs in the master cylinder so an air leak in the front wouldn't have an affect, right?
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Old May 27, 2016 | 11:04 PM
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I guess it all depends on the type of power bleeder you're using. If it's a Motive bleeder that pressurizes the system through the master cylinder and adds fluid to the master as you open up a bleeder, then keep bleeding until all the bubbles are gone. Motive is the best!
On the other hand, if you're using a bleeder like the Mighty Vac that attaches to the bleeder via a hose that sucks the fluid from the caliper, you are more than likely sucking air around the bleeder itself. Most guys put a glob of grease around the bleeder threads to try to prevent this. Also don't forget to add fluid to the master if you're using a Mity Vac type bleeder. If it gets too low you'll suck air into the system and have to start all over again.
I've used both types and find the Motive to be the easiest and most efficient, but for a really firm pedal, my wife does the pedal pumping while I open and close the bleeder. It's the easiest. Get a buddy to help. Good luck.
Duane

Last edited by Duane4238; May 27, 2016 at 11:06 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old May 28, 2016 | 12:17 AM
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Ahhh, good call Duane. I will grease the bleeder tomorrow and try this again.
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Old May 28, 2016 | 04:55 AM
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I use the Phoenix brake bleeder system that pushes from the bleeder into the m/c. Been working great for many projects. Mine, with manual brakes always seemed a little soft regardless of the draw through tool I used under $150 dollars. Bought the Phoenix system, and I have a nice firm pedal.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 09:52 AM
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no connection with front to back, leak on front does not effect back brakes.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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Default Pressure Bleeding Leaks

Hi, guys. I'm new to the Forum but have really learned a lot from numerous threads. Some very knowledgeable folks!


Brake question on my 69: I'm using a Motive pressure bleeder to bleed new lines, calipers, etc. and have had some leaks. Looks like for most of them, I didn't have the fittings tight enough but I'm still getting a good leak from the proportioning valve/block to the hard line for the right front. It's very tight now and I'm concerned about over torqueing it. Any suggestions on how to stop it? Dare I use Teflon tape? Other?


Thanks much.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by One Owner
Hi, guys. I'm new to the Forum but have really learned a lot from numerous threads. Some very knowledgeable folks!


Brake question on my 69: I'm using a Motive pressure bleeder to bleed new lines, calipers, etc. and have had some leaks. Looks like for most of them, I didn't have the fittings tight enough but I'm still getting a good leak from the proportioning valve/block to the hard line for the right front. It's very tight now and I'm concerned about over torqueing it. Any suggestions on how to stop it? Dare I use Teflon tape? Other?


Thanks much.
let me guess, using stainless lines?

big NO on Teflon tape.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gungatim
let me guess, using stainless lines?

big NO on Teflon tape.


I'm embarrassed to admit that I bought and installed them so many years ago, I don' remember but I think they're steel, not stainless.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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Grease the bleeder.....good tip. I did mine last week. I started with my mini-vac, but as usual...too much air getting around the nipple causing bubbles. I then tried my one person bleeder with the one way valve.....better but even with a circle clip over the hose at the bleeder I was drawing in some air. Okay out came the Motive pressure bleeder. A tip on here about using "C"clamps to hold the bleeder top on the master cylinder worked like a charm! I should of just grabbed the Motive to begin with.

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