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The timing was never touched until it was suggested I make adjustments when the heat issue first started. So I don't think there's a problem with the balancer. How should I disconnect the ignition?
I don't think it's a shim issue either as I had the same issue with the first starter and that never gave me a problem before the headers.
What kind of posting are you looking for with the cold and hot cranking?
Originally Posted by diehrd
Its not the headers . To far away to over heat any starter.
You may have a slipped harmonic balance that is showing timing incorrectly and your to far advanced. I would disconnect the ignition when hot and crank it over see if it cranks as it should.
You may need to shim the starter
It would be very helpful if you posted cold and hot cranking.
Here are two videos I took last year showing the car starting when cold and than when hot. The multimeter is connected to the battery so you can see the drop in voltage. You can also hear the problem in the second video.
The timing was never touched until it was suggested I make adjustments when the heat issue first started. So I don't think there's a problem with the balancer. How should I disconnect the ignition?
I don't think it's a shim issue either as I had the same issue with the first starter and that never gave me a problem before the headers.
What kind of posting are you looking for with the cold and hot cranking?
Lay on the ground at about the passengers door hinges and try to take a couple of photos from there and underneath. Since your down there use a tape measure and find the closest distance from the header to the starter. After looking at the photos I'm thinking that the header heat might not be the issue. If that's not the issue and the wiring is all new and tight which you've said it is, then I'm with Tony on the timing, but I'm still curious as to the heat of the starter, when it don't want to start, check the temp every 10 minutes until it starts the way it should and write down all the temps. As far as the timing, after testing for the starter or before but separately, warm it up drive it enough to cause the temp issues and then some, before you shut it down retard the timing by 10 degrees and shut it off, then try and start it. If it still drags, on the drivers side of the dustributor cap there are 2 wires that plug into the distributor, a red one and brown o e, unplug the red one and see if it cranks. Can you upload the the videos to youtube, i can't get them to work
I'll run out now and take some more pictures. Both videos are from youtube, so you should be able to view them. If not search for First start of the day normal and After running and engine hot
Originally Posted by bluedawg
Lay on the ground at about the passengers door hinges and try to take a couple of photos from there and underneath. Since your down there use a tape measure and find the closest distance from the header to the starter. After looking at the photos I'm thinking that the header heat might not be the issue. If that's not the issue and the wiring is all new and tight which you've said it is, then I'm with Tony on the timing, but I'm still curious as to the heat of the starter, when it don't want to start, check the temp every 10 minutes until it starts the way it should and write down all the temps. As far as the timing, after testing for the starter or before but separately, warm it up drive it enough to cause the temp issues and then some, before you shut it down retard the timing by 10 degrees and shut it off, then try and start it. If it still drags, on the drivers side of the dustributor cap there are 2 wires that plug into the distributor, a red one and brown o e, unplug the red one and see if it cranks. Can you upload the the videos to youtube, i can't get them to work
I'll run out now and take some more pictures. Both videos are from youtube, so you should be able to view them. If not search for First start of the day normal and After running and engine hot
Also, the starter is 1" away from the header and the starter solenoid is 1.5" away from the header. I disconnected the red wire which has the white connector and is towards the rear of the HEI. The engine cranks but it will not start. Once I connect it back up the engine starts. Funny thing is when cranky without the cable the engine didn't seem to have the issue but as soon as I connected the cable back up the starter was dragging slightly. Not sure what that means, maybe my distributor is really out of whack?
Originally Posted by bluedawg
Whats your youtube user name.
The white connector with the reddish brown wire was what I disconnected.
Here are two videos I took last year showing the car starting when cold and than when hot. The multimeter is connected to the battery so you can see the drop in voltage. You can also hear the problem in the second video.
I wish I had as much clearance as you do around your starter. And have no issues starting. The wire you unplugged from the dist. is the feed to it. Which makes me think timing.
Ok so if it is timing, and my timing has been adjusted up and down several times, could it be something in the distributor?
Originally Posted by Antz81
I wish I had as much clearance as you do around your starter. And have no issues starting. The wire you unplugged from the dist. is the feed to it. Which makes me think timing.
Ok so if it is timing, and my timing has been adjusted up and down several times, could it be something in the distributor?
It seems like you're getting too much advance. It could be that the balancer has slipped and even though you have tried adjusting timing it has been by enough to solve the problem. But there could be a problem in the distributor causing you to get too much advance too.
The problem is if I retard the timing any more, even by a hair, the engine bogs down and runs like crap.
Originally Posted by Antz81
It seems like you're getting too much advance. It could be that the balancer has slipped and even though you have tried adjusting timing it has been by enough to solve the problem. But there could be a problem in the distributor causing you to get too much advance too.
I was just reading through all this and was about to suggest disconnecting the dist to rule out timing but you beat me to it. Time for a thorough timing set up. I would remove the cap and rotor and make sure the centrifugal weights are free to advance and return. Then make sure your vacuum advance is plugged into manifold vacuum and that it is actually working.
Before I dive into the distributor, it's relatively stock from what I know. I did replace the cap, rotor and coil but nothing else. Is it time to do any upgrades to it while I start looking into it?
I have encountered several that needed to be removed because the advance weights would stick either in advance or at rest. I had to remove the dist and remove the gear from the bottom and remove the shaft to clean all the old grease and gunk from around the top of the shaft causing it to stick.
Ok, too much advance, too much retard or something deeper than that?
Whats your initial and mechanical advance? Try retarding the timing after you've got it hot before you shut it down and see if it starts easier. Well figure out your timing next.
