Right front fender work
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: San Jose CA
Right front fender work
I started in on some bodywork that my ’77 needs, evidently the right front fender had been previously repaired and not very well. What I hoped would be a fairly straightforward job has grown considerably (where have we heard that before?) there is more bondo in there than I thought and the cracking was more extensive. Also found the root cause of the cracks - when they did the reassembly it, they left out the stabilizing plate that attaches the fender and bumper to the frame, so there was a lot of flexing going on. The only question that I have at this point is, what is the blue layer that you can see in the photos? Was this a fender spliced in from a blue car or is that some kind of sealing coat that happens to be blue?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
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From: San Jose CA
No, the paint code is 13 so the car was always silver. I'm finding out more and more the farther I go into this. Actually looks like the fender was silver before it was blue before it was silver again. Definitely a replacement, you can see the splice line behind the right headlight door. I'm finding much more bondo than I thought, the whole area between the door and wheel opening is a 1/16 skim layer. It is peeling off with a putty knife. There is probably more, I have no idea what there will be to work with by the time I get all the bondo off. Also this fender was poorly fitted as you can see by the photo of the bottom fender/door alignment. My plan was to open up the gap at the door but now I am wondering if it is going to be better to replace the fender. That would for sure push the limits of my capabilities....
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Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Southlake, TX
If you are not feeling confident (I know I would not be) best to turn this tricky one over tot he pros. You may be happier in the long run.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
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From: San Jose CA
If money were no object (but we know it is) I'd find a good fender myself and have a professional, hang, glue, rivet and align the piece.
If you are not feeling confident (I know I would not be) best to turn this tricky one over tot he pros. You may be happier in the long run.
If you are not feeling confident (I know I would not be) best to turn this tricky one over tot he pros. You may be happier in the long run.
I'll keep posting, I find this topic of fiberglass bodywork very interesting. I don't think I am the only one.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 71
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From: grandfield ok
I know what you are going through. I'm sanding on my 77 not finding different colors but part of the left front fender has three layers of paint then two layers the right front side has a crack between the hood and head light working on that but that fender has one layer of paint
We would be amazed if we whew what these cars been through in the past
We would be amazed if we whew what these cars been through in the past
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
I know what you are going through. I'm sanding on my 77 not finding different colors but part of the left front fender has three layers of paint then two layers the right front side has a crack between the hood and head light working on that but that fender has one layer of paint
We would be amazed if we whew what these cars been through in the past
We would be amazed if we whew what these cars been through in the past
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 82
From: San Jose CA
Waking this thread up again, I got sidetracked but now back on it. The fender is toast, the more I got into it the more bondo I found. I got lucky and found a good used fender locally from a '79 for $300. Here is a photo, and it fits better than the one that was on the car. So my next question is, anyone know how much 3M 8115 I will need to bond it? Will two 200ml packages be enough? Three?
Thanks!
Jim
Thanks!
Jim
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From: Southbound
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What you have bonds on the cowl at the door. You will not need too much bonding compound for that. The way it's cut, you will be making fiberglass repairs at the joints around the headlight opening top and bottom.
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From: San Jose CA
There are two long vertical bonding seams, one that follows the door edge and another about a foot in front of it not quite as long, about where that emblem is. And the pieces above and below the headlight door are bonded to the steel support structure, and then yes the fiberglass splices. I'll probably buy three tubes from Summit, should be able to return one if I don't use it.
The other challenge is to find an applicator gun that I can borrow, those things are about $300 and I only need it for this one time.