The b[olt at the passenger front is snapped. Been that way for a long time. I just found it a month ago. I was hoping to live with it till winter but the leak is getting worse and I dont think I should put it off any longer. I tested the bolts I can reach and they all came loose. The broken bolt is snapped below the intake bit pretty sure there will be something to grab onto whe the manifold is off.

Been reading a lot of good threads on this in CF. Some 13 years old. I think I can do this and get it back on the road soon.

But like , any of us I can use more advice. Summitt has several gasket sets listed. One is FELPRO 1205 -2.09x 1.28 x.06. The other is 1206 -2.21 x 1.31 x .06.. Whick one do I use with the 1978 L82 aluminum intake. Engine is all stock.

What else should I look at while doing this? I plan to steam clean the manifold and maybe buff it up some to clean it. It possible to clean between the manifold and the lower heat shield without removing the rivits? Never zsaw that part of an engine and have little idea what it looks like. I plan to clean up the choke tube and reinstall it . Do I remove the part of the gasket that covers the crossover port?

Anything else anybody can add?

Thanks

 

Up to 1986, and your L-82 in particular should be 2.09x1.28. My '76 L-82 matches up with the Edelbrock 7204's shown here (as well as some other various Gen-1 Small blocks I've had):

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../gaskets.shtml

As far as the broken bolt, You should be able to drill a hole in the center of the bolt and use an easy-out - they're a "softer" bolt.. In "most cases", the intake bolts into the head come out pretty easily.

Also, when you remove the intake, (again, in most cases / and like you mention), you may luck out and have about 1/2"-3/4" of the broken bolt sticking up above the surface of the head (many times, there is junk / sealant in the threads and the bolt is broken off flush with the head of the bolt resulting in something "to grab" when the intake is removed.

If that's the case, no easy-out needed. Just grind the rounded "stud" a bit so you have 2 "flats" on it, and you should be above to get it off with either a good quality vice grip OR by tapping on an old/junk socket. (cover the engine / valley well, obviously so you don't get any metal debris in there).

In lieu of soaking the intake bolt with PB blaster etc, Try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Power Steering fluid and let it soak over night. I saw a tip a few years ago on the Thirdgen forum (and someone recently posted it here a few weeks back) and it really works well. I've removed more stubborn bolts in the last few years than I ever did with Liquid Wrench / Pd Blaster etc.

** On a side note about the Acetone / P.S. Fluid:

The original article mentioned Acetone and Transmission Fluid but that was actually an error. It was updated very soon after but I've seen the original incorrect (original) article posted all over the internet. (However, I originally used Transmission fluid , like a million other people, and even that works well. I think Trans fluid has detergents etc where P.S. Fluid does not, but I don't think it makes a difference...

I'm doing a brake line now on my 99 Grand Cherokee and the rear lines are usually so bad that I've not been able to get one off on any of the 4 that I've owned. This one is just a bad looking and I've soaked it with the P.S. Fluid and Acetone for 2 days. Today, the fitting came right off.

"Cleaning" the underside / under the intake always worries me a bit on an engine that I'm not removing / rebuilding. With proper maintenance , that area may only be "orange-looking" from hot oil, (or it could be completely gummy and sludge filled from poor maintenance- which is a different project!), cleaning and knocking debris loose could be more hassle than it's worth (especially if some junk gets stuck in a lifter, pushrod etc. If it's clean, I'd leave that alone (or clean carefully).